LONDON, United Kingdom — The landscape of luxury retail in London is set for a significant shift as Browns, the multi-brand boutique renowned for launching the careers of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, prepares to close its iconic store on South Molton Street. After four decades at this location, Browns Molton Street will relocate to a new space in the prestigious Mayfair district, a move orchestrated by Farfetch, who acquired the boutique four years prior.
Come summer 2020, Browns will unveil its new flagship at 39 Brook Street, strategically positioned on the corner of Avery Row, a stone’s throw from the esteemed Claridges Hotel. This move signifies a departure from the more accessible Oxford Street vicinity, placing Browns closer to the epicenter of luxury shopping in London, Bond Street. The relocation to Mayfair is expected to draw in a more concentrated stream of affluent clientele and benefit from increased foot traffic in this high-end retail hub. Simultaneously with the Brook Street opening, the doors of Browns Molton Street will close, marking the end of an era.
Farfetch’s acquisition of Browns in 2015 has been instrumental in bolstering the boutique’s digital presence and overall business growth. The online platform has expanded significantly, while in-store revenue has reportedly tripled. Browns East, a second London location, was established as an experimental space, pioneering “augmented retail” concepts such as a shopping app for appointment bookings, exclusive entrances, and digital wishlists.
Holli Rogers, CEO of Browns and chief fashion officer at Farfetch, emphasized that the new Mayfair boutique will draw inspiration from Browns East but will not be a replica. “We’re taking cues from Browns East, but it won’t be a direct copy,” Rogers stated, highlighting the incorporation of features like the immersive room and in-store technology. However, she also stressed the need for distinct identities for each location, describing Browns East as “the beast in the East” and the Mayfair store as “the beauty in Mayfair,” catering to a more refined clientele while maintaining a contemporary edge.
Browns’ journey began on South Molton Street in 1970, founded by Joan Burstein, affectionately known as Mrs B, and her husband Sidney. They were pivotal in introducing groundbreaking designers like Jil Sander, Comme des Garçons, and Calvin Klein to the UK market. Crucially, Browns Molton Street became a nurturing ground for emerging talents like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, solidifying its global reputation as a champion of innovative fashion.
However, the luxury retail sector has undergone considerable transformation, and the original Browns Molton Street location presented certain limitations. The flagship store, spread across interconnected Georgian townhouses, had developed a “quirky” layout, as described by Rogers. This unconventional configuration posed navigational challenges for customers and hindered the seamless integration of modern retail innovations and Farfetch’s advanced in-store technologies.
The new Brook Street space, while maintaining a similar square footage of 9,150 square feet, is designed to offer a more streamlined and enhanced customer experience. Plans for the new location include a restaurant within a private courtyard, a dedicated floor for exclusive capsule collections, brand collaborations, and showcasing emerging designers. Separate floors for womenswear and menswear, along with a styling suite and concierge services for VIP clients, are also integral to the new store’s design.
A key factor driving the relocation from Browns Molton Street is the evolving perception and demographic of the street itself. Despite its central London location, South Molton Street’s proximity to the bustling Oxford Street, while offering accessibility, also detracts from the polished and exclusive atmosphere desired by high-end luxury shoppers. Rogers noted the slow pace of gentrification on South Molton Street, observing that it hasn’t kept pace with the evolving demands of luxury retail.
Marie Hickey, director of commercial research at Savills, acknowledged the significance of Browns’ departure, stating, “Obviously Browns leaving South Molton Street is going to be seen by some as a major blow to its credentials as a destination.” She also pointed to the delays in the Crossrail project and associated disruptions as creating short-term challenges for retailers on South Molton Street, making it a less attractive location currently.
Despite Browns Molton Street moving on, there remains optimism about the long-term prospects of South Molton Street. Hickey highlighted the transformative potential of the Crossrail development, anticipating a substantial increase in foot traffic to the area once Bond Street station is fully operational, potentially bringing 225,000 passengers daily.
Grosvenor Estates, the prominent landlord for the area, has been actively investing in South Molton Street and the surrounding area, including Davies Street and Brook Street. Their vision is to develop this “South Molton triangle” into a premier retail and office destination, leveraging the area’s conservation zone status to create a unique and attractive environment. While Browns Molton Street may be closing its doors, the area itself is poised for future evolution and reinvention within London’s dynamic retail landscape.
