My initial encounter with Chef Shion Uino predates his tenure at the renowned Shion 69 Leonard Street. It happened during his time at Sushi Amane. Having spent considerable time in Japan in 2009 and experienced truly exceptional sushi omakase there, I embarked on a quest to find a comparable experience in New York City. Initially, my search yielded few results that lived up to my memories of Japan. However, over the last decade, I’ve discovered several gems, including Noz, Noda, and Sushi Amane, where Chef Shion honed his craft. At Sushi Amane, I was already impressed by the quality of his ingredients. So, when I learned about his move to 69 Leonard Street, my curiosity was piqued, and a visit became a must.
Stepping into Shion 69 Leonard Street for the first time, the ambiance immediately struck me. Unlike many omakase establishments that often lack background music, creating a sometimes overly hushed environment, 69 Leonard Street distinguishes itself with subtle jazz melodies. This creates a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere, encouraging conversation without the pressure of absolute silence.
Chef Shion’s recognition was instant upon my arrival. Soon after, he commenced his artistry, presenting an array of exquisite ingredients with a quiet confidence that spoke volumes. My curiosity led me to inquire about the origins and rarity of each piece. “Is this truly shiro amadai?” I’d ask, or “Are these exceptional cuts of tuna from Aomori? Is this amaebi shiokara? Or perhaps a rare portion of kue?” It felt like an entirely elevated sushi experience. One standout was a chilled plate featuring uni prepared in three distinct styles, each offering a uniquely nuanced flavor profile – akin to the complex tasting notes of fine wine. Furthermore, his signature hairy crab dish, simply accented with a touch of black vinegar, was nothing short of extraordinary. It was during this meal that I realized Shion 69 Leonard Street was destined to become a personal favorite, a true haven for exceptional omakase in the heart of Leonard Street.
