Stepping into Pear Street Bistro In Pinole’s Old Town is like entering a subtly glamorous yet welcoming space. A distinctive pewter-colored pear sculpture outside marks your arrival, and if you come during happy hour, you’ll be greeted by the vibrant buzz of patrons enjoying themselves in the bar area. The bar’s tall glass tables, illuminated with a cool neon pink, create an inviting ambiance.
Moving into the dining room, the atmosphere shifts to a more refined, yet still relaxed setting. Crystal chandeliers, elegantly draped in fine silver mesh, cast a soft glow over a long, white Carrera marble communal table, becoming a focal point of the room. The décor throughout Pear Street Bistro is sleek and modern, dominated by soothing gray tones that create a fresh and vibrant backdrop for your dining experience.
Pear Street Bistro has been a cornerstone of the Pinole culinary scene since its inception in 2002. However, a kitchen fire in October 2014 presented unforeseen challenges, forcing owner Francisco Flores, a seasoned veteran of the East Bay restaurant industry, to temporarily close its doors for extensive repairs due to water and smoke damage. Taking this setback as an opportunity, Flores undertook a comprehensive revamp of both the bistro’s décor and its menu, while wisely retaining some of the beloved dishes that had garnered Pear Street Bistro its loyal following.
The grand reopening of the refreshed Pear Street Bistro in January signaled a new chapter for this Pinole favorite. The pear motif, subtly woven throughout the restaurant, from artistic elements to creative cocktails and dishes, serves as a charming nod to its name and identity. We began our culinary journey with the bistro’s signature Pear Bomb ($11), a visually intriguing and refreshing concoction. Served in a tall glass of crisp pear cider, it features a small, inverted wine glass poised within. Upon lifting the wine glass stem, a shot of Absolut Pear vodka elegantly infuses the cider, creating a delightful blend of flavors. For those seeking something with a bit of spice, the Blood Orange Kentucky cocktail ($11) is an excellent choice. This visually appealing orange-red drink combines jalapeño-infused bourbon with sweet blood orange puree and zesty ginger beer, resulting in a balanced and invigorating cocktail. Beyond these signatures, Pear Street Bistro boasts an extensive martini menu, featuring around a dozen creative mixes, including tempting options like butterscotch and spiced mango.
The food menu at Pear Street Bistro is as diverse and globally-inspired as its drink selection. Chef Carlos Pool draws culinary inspiration from across the globe, seamlessly blending flavors from Cajun to Thai and Greek traditions. The PSB Empanadas ($10), arriving four to a plate, were a flavorful start to our meal. Filled with a savory mixture of roast pork, potatoes, and peppers, and accompanied by a tangy tomatillo salsa, they offered a satisfying bite. The PSB Crab Cakes ($11), presented as a pair, showcased a generous amount of Dungeness crabmeat. While enjoyable, they could have benefited from a more pronounced kick from the Creole Cajun aioli, and the slaw was somewhat underwhelming. However, the Signature Pear Salad ($9), spiced with cayenne pepper and featuring fresh pears, crunchy walnuts, and creamy Gorgonzola, was a standout. The bright, house-made champagne vinaigrette perfectly complemented the salad’s diverse textures and flavors.
The service at Pear Street Bistro was attentive and well-paced. Our server ensured a relaxed dining experience, with a comfortable interval between appetizers and entrees. When the entrees arrived, they were beautifully plated, particularly in the deep, vibrant red bowls that held two of our selections. The Thai Coconut Curry Linguine with Prawns ($19) was a generous and flavorful dish. The glistening, curry-coated noodles were perfectly cooked and accompanied by plump shrimp and an assortment of fresh vegetables. While the dish was well-executed, a more intense curry flavor would have elevated it further. The PSB Lomo Saltado ($19), topped with crispy french fries, presented an intriguing fusion of Peruvian and American flavors. Tender stir-fried sirloin, marinated in a garlicky Peruvian soy sauce, was combined with tomatoes and onions and served over a bed of fluffy white rice. For those seeking a healthier alternative, quinoa is offered as a substitution. While the french fries are a traditional component of Lomo Saltado, they became slightly soggy in the sauce.
However, the Southern Fried Chicken and Waffles ($19) emerged as the unequivocal highlight of the dinner menu. Opting for the half-bird, “bone in,” proved to be an excellent decision. The chicken – a moist and juicy breast, thigh, and leg – was encased in a wonderfully crunchy buttermilk batter, seasoned with paprika and garlic. It was, without exaggeration, some of the finest fried chicken we’ve tasted in recent memory. The bacon-studded brown sugar waffles were equally delicious, although the jalapeño butter lacked any noticeable pepper heat. Despite this minor point, this dish alone is compelling reason enough for a return visit to Pear Street Bistro.
To conclude our meal on a sweet note, the Poached Pear Crème Brulee ($8) is an absolute must-try dessert at Pear Street Bistro. This visually stunning creation was near perfection. The crisp, caramelized bruleed sugar crust gave way to a rich, creamy, vanilla-infused custard, elegantly crowned with half a delicate poached pear. While generously portioned and shareable, you might be tempted to indulge in one all to yourself.
Now that Pear Street Bistro has triumphantly reopened in Pinole, it’s clear that the wait was indeed worthwhile. The restaurant has found its stride, offering a harmonious blend of sophisticated ambiance, inventive cocktails, and globally-inspired cuisine. Francisco Flores and his dedicated team have successfully crafted a fresh and hip bistro experience right in the heart of Pinole, making Pear Street Bistro a dining destination worth exploring.
Pear Street Bistro
** ½
WHERE: 2395 San Pablo Ave., Pinole
CONTACT: 510-741-8875; www.pearstreetbistro.com
HOURS: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday
CUISINE: New American
PRICES: Entrees $13-$35
VEGETARIAN: Choices include flatbreads, pastas, a veggie stir fry and grilled portobello mushroom.
BEVERAGES: Beer, wine and craft cocktails, notable martini list
RESERVATIONS: Recommended
NOISE LEVEL: Loud
PARKING: Street
KIDS: Children’s menu offers pasta, chicken strips and cheese pizza.
PLUSES: Lively happy hour, craft cocktails and globally-inspired cuisine make this a neighborhood favorite. Don’t miss the fried chicken and waffles, crab cakes and pear crème brulee.
MINUSES: Dishes could use more assertive spices and seasonings.
DATE REOPENED: January
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