Stepping into a Russian banya for the first time can be a truly unique experience, and if you’re in New York City, Wall Street Bath And Spa 88 offers an authentic slice of this Slavic tradition right in FiDi. My initial advice? The cold plunge pool is for a quick cool down, not for leisurely laps. Trust me, learned that lesson the hard way in a chilly St. Petersburg pool at 16.
But beyond the invigorating (and sometimes shocking) cold, the banya, a sweat-bathing ritual with over a millennium of history, is also about nourishment – both for the body and soul. And at Wall Street Bath and Spa 88, or Spa 88 as it’s commonly known, this is especially true. For two decades, this establishment has been a sanctuary where guests, clad in swimsuits, can indulge in some of the most delicious post-Soviet Union cuisine the city has to offer. My own decade-long love affair with Spa 88 began during a personal upheaval. It became my refuge, a place to soothe heartache without resorting to unhealthy habits, to find quiet respite in the middle of the day, and to process emotions without disturbing anyone’s dinner plans.
The banya became my sanctuary, a place to heal.
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Forget the typical spa fare of avocado toast and acai bowls. At Wall Street Bath and Spa 88, the culinary offerings are rooted in hearty, salt-of-the-earth recipes from Russia, Uzbekistan, Georgia, and Ukraine. Think succulent lamb shashlik (kebabs), comforting goluptsi (meat-stuffed cabbage rolls), and delicate vareniki (steamed dumplings) filled with sweet cherries. Dining here isn’t just about eating; it’s an integral part of the banya ritual. The intense heat, followed by icy plunges, profoundly affects your body, awakening a deep hunger. Savoring ukha, a clear fish soup brimming with the taste of the sea, after the extreme temperatures is a uniquely revitalizing experience, far removed from the heavy feeling after a steakhouse meal.
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This is where Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 diverges sharply from its American counterparts, the generic saunas found in fitness clubs. While a gym sauna offers mild relaxation, a Russian banya is a more demanding, yet ultimately more rewarding, experience. The journey to relaxation at Spa 88 is a rigorous interplay of physical and mental engagement, a far cry from the passive unwinding after an elliptical workout.
Located next to a pawn shop on Fulton Street, the unassuming entrance of Spa 88 gives little hint of the sprawling complex that lies beneath. This subterranean escape houses a lap pool, a cigar lounge, a jacuzzi often favored by those less familiar with banya etiquette, a juice bar offering traditional snacks like dried fish, massage rooms, cold rooms, a restaurant, a cafe, and four distinct hot rooms. Each sauna room at Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 offers a unique level of heat and intensity, designed to challenge your body in different ways.
The infrared sauna, with its somewhat dubious “immune-boosting” claims, is arguably the least intense. A better starting point is the Turkish bath, filled with fragrant eucalyptus steam. Next, venture into the old American schvitz, where seasoned banya-goers intensify the heat by throwing buckets of water onto the hot stones. Finally, for the truly adventurous, there’s the dry Russian sauna. Here, temperatures soar to 180°F (82°C) or higher – hot enough to melt plastic. Bringing a water bottle inside is a definite no-no.
Within these hot rooms, you’ll witness various banya rituals. Some patrons apply honey to their faces, a traditional Russian remedy believed to detoxify and soften the skin. Others opt for a platza treatment, where a specialist uses bundles of влажные oak branches to gently whip the body. This invigorating massage is said to release beneficial phytoncides from the oak leaves, contributing to overall wellness. The platza treatment fills the air with the refreshing scent of a damp forest, enhancing the sensory experience.
On a typical Saturday at Wall Street Bath and Spa 88, the communal atmosphere is palpable. You’ll find yourself sitting closer to fellow patrons than in most restaurants, and in this setting, formality dissolves. Perspiration starts subtly, a light sheen as your body regulates its temperature. But as time passes in the heat, sweat becomes richer, mixing with your skin’s natural oils, creating a softening, almost olive oil-like film.
Then comes the exhilarating cold plunge. A gasp, maybe a shout, as your body reacts to the icy water. The cycle repeats: heat, cold, heat again, until your nerve endings awaken and then gently numb, a sensation akin to the tingling spice of Sichuan mala. And then, you eat. The enticing aroma of kharcho, a spicy Georgian lamb soup, wafts through the air. Its rich, gravy-like broth, studded with rice and fiery peppercorns, is both comforting and invigorating. It’s a meal that nourishes without heaviness, perfectly preparing you to return to the heat for another round.
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Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 provides a welcome departure from the typical restaurant experience. Unlike the structured format of dining out, here you can relax at your own pace. Similar to other bathhouses, from the historic East Village institutions to the expansive banyas in Seagate and Korean spas like Spa Castle in Queens, Spa 88 allows for flexibility. There’s no pressure for your group to arrive or depart together, and you’re free to wander and relax without constant staff interaction. In fact, a visit can easily extend to accommodate two full meals.
The banya experience is the opposite of a quick, formal outing. It’s more akin to spending an entire day at a venue, much like the leisurely atmosphere of food halls or upscale coffee roasteries that double as co-working spaces. However, Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 distinguishes itself further by placing gastronomy as a complement to the overall experience, not the central focus.
Dining at Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 evokes memories of enjoying food at baseball games, bowling alleys, or even a quirky alligator zoo – places where eating is part of a larger activity, not the main event. It’s a return to a simpler way of enjoying food, where nourishment is seamlessly integrated into a broader experience.
The banya at Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 also fosters a more inclusive environment. Body types are diverse, and pretenses are shed along with clothing. If the finance crowd gets too boisterous, a simple splash of water on the hot rocks sends them scurrying to the less intense whirlpool bath upstairs.
The purpose of visiting Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 isn’t about culinary perfection or showcasing designer workout gear. It’s about cleansing, rejuvenation, quiet contemplation, and social connection in a relaxed and unpretentious setting, often in complimentary swim trunks.
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My final piece of advice for your visit to Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 draws inspiration from the classic Soviet comedy, The Irony of Fate. The movie revolves around a group of friends who overindulge at a Moscow banya on New Year’s Eve, leading to a hilarious case of mistaken identity and a transatlantic flight mix-up. The takeaway? While the infused vodkas might be tempting, moderation is key. Perhaps a single beer is the limit if you intend to fully benefit from the banya’s detoxifying effects. The goal is to replenish fluids lost through sweat, not to add to dehydration with alcohol.
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This principle of moderation extends to the food as well. Keep your meal choices simple and consider ordering borscht, a hearty cabbage soup with a refreshing tartness that balances the sweetness of beetroot. Another excellent option is khash, an Armenian beef foot and tripe soup, rich in collagen and flavor.
For a more formal dining experience, Wall Street Bath and Spa 88 features Matryoshka, an upstairs restaurant named after the iconic Russian nesting dolls. However, for the true banya atmosphere, dine in the downstairs cafeteria. Here, you can relax in casual plastic chairs and order at the counter. Take a few more sauna sessions while you wait, and your meal will be ready in minutes. Consider indulging in sweet blini with salty salmon roe, or savory Siberian pelmeni dumplings with sour cream, or Georgian chicken tabaka.
Afterwards, a short nap at your table or on a nearby couch is perfectly acceptable. Rehydrate with water, and then, feeling refreshed and fortified, step back into the sauna, ready to face the metaphorical (or literal) cold plunge of a New York winter.
Wall Street Bath & Spa 88
88 Fulton Street, Manhattan, NY 10038
(212) 766-8600
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