Market Street in Santa Fe welcomes back a culinary gem with the reopening of Market Steer Steakhouse. This isn’t just a restaurant review; it’s an exploration of what makes Market Steer a standout in the competitive Santa Fe dining landscape. After a brief hiatus while establishing its new location at 213 Washington Ave., this venture by the accomplished duo, Chef Kathleen Crook and Kristina Goode, is already setting new standards. Though only in its initial days of operation at this new Market Street address, early impressions from an exclusive preview suggest that any opening kinks are nonexistent. From the impeccable service and inviting ambiance to the meticulously crafted menu, Market Steer appears to have not just returned, but elevated its game. Rather than a dish-by-dish breakdown, let’s delve into the defining features that position Market Steer as a must-visit destination on Market Street, Santa Fe.
Killer Atmosphere: Redefining Santa Fe Dining Ambiance
Stepping into the new Market Steer Steakhouse is a transformative experience, especially for those familiar with the previous tenant, El Mesón. Kathleen Crook and Kristina Goode have completely reimagined the space, collaborating with Santa Fe designer Thom Ortiz to create an interior that is both sophisticated and welcoming. While embracing the minimalist aesthetic often found in fine dining establishments with its clean white walls, Market Steer distinguishes itself through carefully selected accents that inject personality and warmth. A striking custom chandelier anchors the main dining room, while unique sconces incorporating horse hair nod to the region’s equestrian heritage and Chef Crook’s rodeo background. The lighting scheme fosters an intimate, almost romantic atmosphere, perfect for memorable evenings. Although the patio was yet to open during the preview, it promises to be a delightful addition for outdoor dining during Santa Fe’s pleasant seasons. Each table setting adheres to the classic upscale dining standard with crisp white tablecloths, maintaining an uncluttered and refined feel. “I think we’ve kind of hit it,” Crook remarks about the interior design, still expressing a sense of awe at the transformation. This new Market Steer isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a statement of ownership and vision, literally. Crook and Goode now own the building, signifying their deep commitment to their presence on Market Street.
Alt text: Elegant chandelier illuminates the dining area at Market Steer Steakhouse on Market Street in Santa Fe.
Elevating the Drinks: A Curated Beverage Program for Market Street
Kristina Goode explains the move from their previous location at Hotel St. Francis was driven by a desire for greater creative control and brand expression. “We wanted to tell our story through design, to create our brand and have full autonomy for what that looks like—a space that is completely ours.” While appreciative of their time at the hotel, the new Market Street location allows them to operate with their own liquor license. This pivotal change has enabled Market Steer to develop a bespoke wine and cocktail program, a significant step in defining their independent identity. To spearhead this ambitious beverage direction, they welcomed Tyler Rudoff, a Santa Fe native with extensive experience in California and Chicago’s dynamic dining scenes, as both a business partner and Beverage Director. Rudoff’s expertise was evident during the preview dinner, where he expertly guided guests through wine and cocktail selections, including innovative zero-proof options such as a notably refreshing blueberry shrub, all while utilizing a dedicated decanting station to enhance the wine service. “[We] discussed crafting an exceptional wine list while emphasizing the importance of connections with winemakers,” Rudoff shares, highlighting a commitment to quality and relationships. A unique touch in Market Steer’s wine book is the inclusion of custom tasting notes provided by esteemed vintners like Robert Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Vineyards and Cristina Torres of Marimar Estate, offering diners a deeper connection to the wines. Beyond the wine list, patrons can expect familiar and signature cocktails, with Rudoff hinting at further exciting additions to the drink menu, making Market Steer a destination for beverage enthusiasts on Market Street.
Alt text: Tyler Rudoff, Market Steer’s sommelier, advises guests on wine pairings in the Santa Fe restaurant.
The Tack Room: A New Angle on the Market Street Experience
Chef Crook’s Artesia, New Mexico roots and her accolades as an award-winning rodeo champion are playfully integrated into Market Steer through its bar, aptly named The Tack Room. This space, adorned with rodeo memorabilia including Crook’s own trophies, offers a more relaxed and convivial atmosphere compared to the main dining area, broadening the appeal of Market Steer on Market Street. The Tack Room is set to become a popular spot for happy hour, running from 4-5:30 pm daily, except Sunday when the restaurant is closed. During happy hour, Goode highlights that all bar menu items are priced at $10, encompassing a selection of drinks and enticing dishes. The happy hour menu features items like a soon-to-be-introduced green chile cheese smash burger, deviled eggs with lobster, a robust Caesar salad, and the much-loved Market Steer bourbon bread pudding. Perhaps the most intriguing offering is the confit duck wings, accompanied by a white BBQ sauce and house-made giardiniera, presenting an elevated take on classic chicken wings. Crook recounts the inspiration behind this dish, born from a conversation about duck stock ingredients which evolved into the idea of confiting duck wings. Goode emphasizes that the happy hour menu is also about making Market Steer accessible to a wider audience. “Our intention is for people to not feel like they have to come in here and have this big fancy dinner,” she explains. “We’re doing things so people can come in and have something a little more casual, because we’re both bar sitters when we go out to eat.” This approach ensures Market Steer caters to various dining preferences along Market Street.
Alt text: Rodeo-themed decor in The Tack Room bar at Market Steer, a Santa Fe dining spot on Market Street.
Unexpected Delights: Pickled Blueberries and Dessert Innovations
While Market Steer operates without a dedicated pastry chef, Chef Crook’s dessert creations are noteworthy and rival any in Santa Fe. The beef fat chocolate pâté, served with anise shortbread cookies and spiced peach jam, stands out as a uniquely adventurous dessert. The bourbon bread pudding remains a favorite, consistently spotted on tables during the preview dinner. However, the lemon crème brûlée, enhanced with Crook’s pandemic-inspired pickled blueberries, might be the most talked-about sweet offering. Crook explains the origin of this innovative ingredient: a large blueberry shipment arrived just before pandemic shutdowns, leading her to pickle them as a preservation method. These pickled blueberries have since become a signature element, adding a surprising and delightful tang to the crème brûlée, showcasing Crook’s culinary creativity and resourcefulness.
Alt text: Close-up of lemon crème brûlée topped with pickled blueberries at Market Steer restaurant, Santa Fe.
Staff and Service: The Heart of Market Steer’s Market Street Success
In a testament to the positive work environment fostered by Crook and Goode, Market Steer achieved a remarkable 100% staff return rate after being closed for relocation. This is particularly noteworthy given the challenges in the restaurant industry. A busser expressed genuine appreciation for Crook and Goode as employers, describing Market Steer as “a great place to work.” Similarly, a server conveyed excitement about returning, and provided attentive, non-pushy recommendations for sides and steak enhancements, indicative of the high service standard. The palpable happiness and dedication of the staff underscore a positive work culture. “You surround yourself with the best people,” Crook states, “you get the best results.” This philosophy is clearly reflected in the exceptional dining experience at Market Steer, making it a standout destination on Market Street, Santa Fe.
Conclusion
Market Steer Steakhouse’s return to Market Street, Santa Fe, is more than just a reopening; it’s a significant upgrade in ambiance, culinary offerings, and overall dining experience. From the redesigned interiors and curated beverage program to the innovative menu and dedicated staff, Market Steer is poised to become a cornerstone of the Santa Fe dining scene. Whether for a special occasion dinner or a casual happy hour at The Tack Room, Market Steer invites locals and visitors alike to experience the best of Santa Fe hospitality and culinary excellence on Market Street.
