For too long, suburban restaurants have battled a somewhat unfair reputation, often being seen as less exciting than their city counterparts. However, a new wave of eateries is challenging this notion, proving that culinary excellence isn’t confined to city limits. Among these game-changers is Churchill Street, a Shoreview restaurant that’s redefining suburban dining expectations. As one diner aptly put it, “I didn’t expect a restaurant in Shoreview to be this great.” This sentiment perfectly encapsulates the delightful surprise that awaits visitors to Churchill Street.
Welcoming interior of Churchill Street restaurant in Shoreview, featuring comfortable seating and a bright, open space.
Churchill Street isn’t just another suburban spot; it boasts an impressive pedigree. Its team includes alumni from esteemed establishments like The Bachelor Farmer and French Laundry, along with a pastry chef whose resume includes Rustica and The Bachelor Farmer. This high-caliber team translates into a sophisticated yet approachable dining experience. The restaurant itself is thoughtfully designed as a welcoming community hub, operating five days a week from morning till evening. This versatile approach allows Churchill Street to seamlessly transition from a cozy coffee shop in the early hours to a vibrant lunch spot, a relaxed happy hour destination, and finally, an upscale dinner venue as the day progresses. During our visit, we observed this seamless transformation firsthand, watching patrons transition from laptops and coffee cups to wine glasses and dinner plates, highlighting the restaurant’s successful multi-faceted concept.
While Churchill Street operates with a counter-service ordering system and a self-serve water station (offering both still and sparkling options), the attentive and friendly staff ensures a full-service feel. Throughout our meal, staff members were readily available, checking in on diners and providing assistance as needed, striking a perfect balance between casual ordering and attentive service.
Cocktail Craft and Refreshing Beverages
Our culinary journey began with cocktails, exploring both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options. The Sherry Jubilee ($12) was an intriguing concoction, listing vodka, Tattersall Sour Cherry, sherry, lemon, and cinnamon among its ingredients. Despite the potentially dominant cinnamon, the drink was surprisingly delicate and balanced, with the cinnamon subtly enhancing rather than overpowering the other flavors. Its gentle profile made it an excellent accompaniment to the diverse dishes we sampled. On the non-alcoholic side, the Ginger & Mary Ann ($6) proved to be a refreshing and zesty choice. Featuring orange bitters, grenadine, and ginger beer, this spicy and invigorating drink is perfectly suited for warmer weather, offering a delightful burst of flavor.
Exquisite Appetizers: Arancini Perfection
Delicious Arancini appetizer at Churchill Street, showcasing perfectly fried risotto balls with a crispy exterior and creamy interior, served with marinara sauce.
Every dish we sampled at Churchill Street was not only delicious but also beautifully presented, elevating the overall dining experience. The Arancini appetizer ($12) was a prime example, eliciting audible appreciation upon arrival. These fried risotto balls were flawlessly executed, achieving a perfect crispy exterior without any hint of greasiness, while the risotto within remained wonderfully creamy and light. The accompanying marinara sauce provided a vibrant and tangy counterpoint, perfectly complementing the richness of the arancini. This appetizer alone is a testament to Churchill Street’s commitment to quality and flavor.
Cabbage Reimagined: A Standout Vegetable Dish
While Brussels sprouts have become a ubiquitous presence on restaurant menus, Churchill Street offered a more unique and intriguing vegetable option: Cabbage ($9). This dish, featuring caramelized cabbage with caraway cream, pickled mustard seeds, and breadcrumbs, is a testament to the restaurant’s culinary creativity. It’s rare to find a cabbage dish that inspires such enthusiasm, but Churchill Street has managed to transform this humble vegetable into a serious and thoughtfully prepared delight. The silky, creamy texture of the caramelized cabbage was beautifully contrasted by the crunchy breadcrumbs, while the caraway and mustard were used judiciously, adding complexity without being overwhelming. The result was a surprisingly intricate and exceptionally delicious dish that we observed being ordered at multiple tables, with one member of our party even ordering a second portion to take home – a clear indication of its appeal.
Unexpectedly delicious caramelized Cabbage dish at Churchill Street, featuring caraway cream, pickled mustard seeds, and breadcrumbs, a highlight of the menu.
Classic Entrees, Masterfully Executed
The entree selections at Churchill Street focused on delivering classic dishes with impeccable execution rather than groundbreaking innovation. The Steak Frites ($32) featured a perfectly grilled medium-rare flank steak, accompanied by a rich and flavorful poivre sauce redolent of brandy and butter. The frites themselves were a highlight – achieving that coveted balance of crispy exterior and fluffy interior, without any excess oiliness.
The Mushroom Risotto ($24) was another example of a classic dish elevated to new heights. Packed with mushrooms and fresh herbs, and topped with a delightful crisped parmesan crust, this risotto served as a reminder of why certain dishes become enduring classics. Churchill Street’s rendition was a joyful and comforting take on this timeless favorite.
Classic and expertly prepared Mushroom Risotto at Churchill Street, with fresh herbs and a crispy parmesan crust, a testament to their quality classic dishes.
Nostalgic Dessert with a Grown-Up Twist
To conclude our meal, we opted for the Butterscotch Pudding ($8), a dessert that was as visually appealing as it was delicious. Flavor-wise, it evoked nostalgic memories of childhood pudding cups, but this version was decidedly more sophisticated. The pudding itself was sweet, but with a subtle caramelized undertone that prevented it from being cloying. The whipped cream, adorned with chocolate pearls, added a welcome textural crunch, and the accompanying almond brittle provided a complementary element, although a slightly crunchier brittle would have been even better.
Final Verdict: Churchill Street is a Suburban Gem
While the slightly less crunchy brittle was a minor point, it was a negligible drawback in an otherwise exceptional dining experience. Overall, Churchill Street is not only enjoyable but genuinely exciting, representing a positive trend of talented chefs and restaurateurs expanding beyond Minneapolis and St. Paul to bring well-conceived and expertly executed eateries to the surrounding suburbs. The bustling atmosphere of Churchill Street on a weeknight confirms that we are not alone in appreciating this shift. For those seeking a high-quality dining experience without venturing into the city, Churchill Street is a must-visit destination that is successfully raising the bar for suburban restaurants.
Churchill Street, 4606 Churchill St., Shoreview, 612.466.2596, WED-SUN 7am-9pm MON-TUE CLOSED
