On a Thursday evening, an impromptu dining adventure led us to Kloof Street House, a venue that had been generating buzz since its opening just six weeks prior. Joining me were Katie Friedman from Orphanage Cocktail Emporium and Veronica from the blog ‘Mother City Magic’. Our expectations, based on local chatter, were pleasantly exceeded by the quality of both the food and the attentive service we experienced.
Kloof Street House occupies a building steeped in restaurant history, having previously housed establishments like Manolo and Opal Lounge. This beautiful, somewhat hidden gem on Kloof Street boasts a significant advantage in Cape Town – free parking located conveniently behind the building, a detail often missed by many. Stepping inside, the interior reveals a thoughtful renovation. Walls have been removed to create an open, flowing space capable of accommodating around 80 guests indoors and a further 70 outdoors, weather permitting. The ambiance at night is particularly noteworthy. The soft, low lighting design immediately sets a romantic tone, with candlelight illuminating every table. Each wooden table is adorned with a single red rose in a vase, ours perhaps a touch past its prime. Comfortable wicker chairs are subtly placed within the dimly lit space. Small touches of refinement include Goldcrest black pepper and coarse sea salt grinders on each table. However, the paper serviettes came as a slight surprise, contrasting with the overall class and attention to detail evident throughout the restaurant. The outdoor seating mirrors the style of The Grand Café, suggesting a consistent aesthetic approach.
The staff adopt a smart-casual dress code, wearing their own clothes but unified by aprons, making them easily identifiable. We were fortunate to be served by Bayley, who was experiencing his first shift at Kloof Street House, having just transferred from Asoka, another establishment owned by Paul Hetreed, located further up Kloof Street. Information about the British chef, Oliver Simpson, and his culinary background proved elusive. Managers Duane and Juan maintained a discreet presence, though Juan made regular table visits, generously offering us complimentary desserts.
The menu and wine list are presented together on recycled paper. The selection of ‘starters and sharing plates’ was so appealing that we decided to explore this section exclusively, bypassing the main courses entirely. The chicken liver parfait was a standout dish, shared by Veronica and myself. Served in a glass jar, it was accompanied by a generous portion of Melba Toast and a delightful pear and raisin chutney – an unexpected yet harmonious combination, presented beautifully on a wooden board (R55). The tempura asparagus was equally impressive, featuring long-stemmed asparagus in a crisp batter, paired with a distinctive soya mayonnaise dipping sauce (R60). Katie opted for the Shepherd’s Pie beignets, served with pea purée and lamb jus. Her white onion soup was a theatrical addition, poured at the table from a teapot over chorizo pieces and a poached egg (R50). The starters are reasonably priced, with two being ample for a satisfying meal. Other tempting options included calamari, white fish brandade, whole baked Camembert, chicken skewers, kingklip skewers, lamb koftas, Bravas potatoes, and a variety of platters, including vegetarian, charcuterie, and mixed skewers. The roast pumpkin and pear salad with walnut and fried gorgonzola sounded particularly intriguing, alongside classic choices like Caprese and house salads. Main courses range from R75 for gnocchi to R145 for lamb shank and beef fillet, with further options including kingklip, calamari, chicken breast, Norwegian salmon, and blade of beef. The ‘House Regulars’ section offers familiar comfort food like beer-battered fish, beef burger, sirloin steak roll, and Parmesan-crusted chicken schnitzel, all priced under R85.
Desserts, priced around R50, also presented enticing choices. The black pepper and vanilla semifreddo with strawberries and balsamic, and the baked peanut butter cheesecake, which Veronica selected, stood out. Other options included chocolate fondant and vanilla crème brûlée, the latter served innovatively on a board with berry compote and a surprising orange ice cream.
The wine menu lists regions rather than vintages. Bubbly options include Graham Beck Brut and Brut Rosé NV, priced at R42 per glass or R210 per bottle for the Brut, and R290 for the Rosé, alongside Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label (R950) and Rosé (R1200). The white wine selection features twelve options, predominantly Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, ranging from R125/R35 for Waterford Rosé Mary to R200 per bottle for Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc. Reflecting its location, Tamboerskloof’s Kleinood Shiraz (R225) is a fitting inclusion. The sixteen red wine choices range from R140/R40 for Thelema Mountain Red to R430 for Meerlust Merlot.
Kloof Street House has the potential to become a regular dining spot. Its menu offers an interesting and reasonably priced mix, the food presentation is appealing, portions are generous, a significant portion of the wine list is available by the glass at fair prices, the staff are friendly and efficient, and the off-street parking is a definite bonus.
Postscript 20/1: A chance encounter with Paul Hetreed, the owner of both Asoka and Kloof Street House, at Melissa’s on Kloof Street revealed a young, passionate restaurateur. Camps Bay born and bred, he expressed genuine enthusiasm for his work, stating, ‘I love my job!’. He assured me that linen serviettes were indeed on their way. He shared that Leon Fortis, the building owner and also landlord of Asoka, had offered him the Kloof Street House lease, indicating a positive landlord-tenant relationship. He proudly mentioned Asoka’s impressive ranking as 50th in the World’s 50 Best Bars 2012 and Best in Africa and the Middle East by Drinks International. Chef Oliver Simpson, who had collaborated with him at Asoka for several years, now heads the kitchen at Kloof Street House, with the menu being a joint creation. It reflects their vision of casual dining and shared plates, offered at accessible prices. Paul acknowledged initial ‘teething problems’ but felt they had been resolved, a sentiment echoed by our smooth dining experience. He humorously admitted to not having a Facebook page or Twitter handle for Kloof Street House yet, explaining his desire to hire a dedicated Social Media and PR person and establish a solid foundation before a formal launch. His philosophy is simple: ‘put love into your venue and you will reap great rewards.’
Postscript 27/6: A return visit to Kloof Street House, after several visits throughout the summer, reaffirmed its consistent quality, even with a subtle chef change. Material serviettes were now in use. While the asparagus tempura was off the menu due to seasonality, the chicken liver parfait remained excellent. We were also impressed by the new Manager, Chris Zoeller, who joined in February, previously from La Colombe.
Postscript 27/8: A quick early dinner stop took an unexpected turn when the hostess initially struggled to allocate a table, despite the restaurant being largely empty at 6 pm. Operations Manager Lizelle Graaf’s demeanor was surprisingly rude (previously Operations Manager at Beluga, a restaurant known for unprofessional conduct). Fortunately, Manager Chris intervened, providing excellent service and salvaging the experience. The beer-battered kingklip with mushy mint peas, chips, and tartar sauce proved to be exceptionally good.
Postscript 29/8: An interaction with a less-than-competent hostess/waitress led to an 11-Tweet rant from her, thankfully resolved by Manager Chris Zoeller’s intervention.
Postscript 15/11: A delightful and extended lunch with Maki to celebrate a milestone occasion introduced us to the new Operations Manager, Radley Dijker. We also met the new Chef, Richie Tewnion, who joined from Woodcutters Arms in Hout Bay a month prior, and previously worked as Sous Chef for Jamie Oliver at FIFTEEN in London. His proactive approach to introducing himself and seeking feedback was impressive. He mentioned an upcoming revised summer menu. We shared the chicken liver pâté with pear, apricot, and raisin chutney and again enjoyed the beer-battered fish and chips, noting an improved presentation compared to previous visits.
Kloof Street House, located at 30 Kloof Street, Cape Town. Contact them at (021) 423-4413. Website: www.kloofstreethouse.co.za. Currently without a social media presence. Open for Dinner and Lunch Monday – Saturday, and Lunch on Sundays.
Chris von Ulmenstein, Whale Cottage Portfolio: [www.whalecottage.com](http:// www.whalecottage.com) Twitter: @WhaleCottage
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