Living just around the corner from South Philadelphia’s renowned Miracle On 13th Street has been nothing short of eye-opening. Each year, as the holiday season approaches, this unassuming block transforms into a dazzling spectacle of lights and decorations, drawing crowds from all over the city and beyond. For a local like myself, it’s become an unavoidable, and surprisingly enjoyable, part of the festive season. Initially resistant to altering my routine – even something as simple as my evening dog walk – I’ve come to appreciate the unique charm and unexpected benefits of having this Christmas wonderland in my backyard.
A Stroll Through a Winter Wonderland
My nightly walks with Ginny, my small dog, usually take us down the 1600 block of 13th Street. Before the Miracle on 13th Street takes hold, it’s a typical South Philly street. But come December, it erupts in a symphony of twinkling lights. While part of me initially scoffed at the idea of joining the throngs of onlookers, practicality quickly won out. Dog owners will understand the nightly challenge of poop-scooping in the dark. However, thanks to the dazzling illumination of the Miracle on 13th Street, navigating this task becomes surprisingly easy. In fact, the street is so brightly lit and bustling with families that I feel comfortable leaving my phone at home, a rare and liberating experience for my usual bedtime stroll. This unexpected sense of safety and festive cheer, even for a self-proclaimed “Sunday-school refugee,” is a surprising gift from the Miracle on 13th Street.
More Than Just Decorations: Observing the Crowd
Year after year, articles about the Miracle on 13th Street emphasize its ability to bring people together, fostering a sense of community and goodwill. While there’s certainly a palpable holiday spirit in the air, my nightly observations reveal a more nuanced reality. The crowds are a microcosm of city life, with attitudes as diverse as the decorations themselves.
One evening, I overheard a child, no older than six, declare with disdain that a particular house “isn’t fully decorated,” lamenting the homeowner’s restraint in sticking to just window lights. On another walk, a Jewish friend and I pondered what it must be like to reside on this block throughout December if you don’t celebrate Christmas. It’s fascinating to consider the varying levels of participation, from the minimalist window lights to the all-out festive extravaganzas. Even those opting for simpler decorations, like strings of autumn leaves alongside Christmas lights, demonstrate a touch of neighborhood festivity, albeit with a personal twist.
The spirit of the season takes on different forms throughout the block. St. John’s Baptist Church, located at the corner of 13th and Tasker, makes its own statement with a sign proclaiming “Jesus is still king!” alongside a nativity scene. Their illuminated message, “Jesus is the reason,” cleverly uses a candy cane for the “J,” adding a touch of playful holiday cheer to their religious message.
From Ralphie to Rudolph: Iconic Holiday Displays
However, religious sentiments often take a backseat to pure pop culture spectacle within the Miracle on 13th Street. The undisputed highlight for many is the elaborate homage to the classic 1983 film A Christmas Story. A life-sized cutout of Ralphie in his infamous pink bunny suit stands proudly, alongside the iconic leg lamp glowing in the window. Adding a touch of dark humor, a light display depicts a child with his tongue stuck to a frozen flagpole. A slightly unsettling Santa mannequin reclines near a mailbox for letters to Santa, and a giant, grinning Santa head looms eerily from a third-floor window. Perhaps the most bizarre element is a digital projection of Santa rambling around and eating cookies, an image that borders on the unsettling.
During a walk with a date, I dared to voice my opinion that these Santas were more creepy than festive. He simply declared me “demented.” Needless to say, there wasn’t a second date. Similarly, a house on the east side projects a Jim Carrey-esque Grinch in its third-floor window, a sight so off-putting that I overheard one woman refusing to walk on that side of the block, deeming it “too scary.” I couldn’t entirely disagree.
Ginny and Rudolph, the eponymous ruminant. (Photo by Alaina Johns)
My personal favorite display within the Miracle on 13th Street offers a gentler dose of nostalgia: a charming, fuzzy collection of characters from the beloved 1964 stop-motion animated film Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. Yukon Cornelius, the Bumble, and, of course, Rudolph himself are rendered in soft, inviting textures, a welcome contrast to some of the more over-the-top displays.
Beyond the Twinkle: Holiday Realities on Display
While the decorations undoubtedly bring joy to children, the Miracle on 13th Street also offers a less-than-flattering glimpse into modern parenting during the holidays. I witnessed one family hire a professional photographer to capture their toddler, dressed in a delicate red dress but without a coat, shivering visibly in the 40-degree weather. The pursuit of the “perfect photo” seemed to outweigh basic common sense.
মাঝে মাঝে, carolers fill the air with festive tunes (I’m still humming “Jingle Bell Rock”), and roving performers like the Positive Movement Drill Team add to the lively atmosphere. However, at the southern end of the block, where traffic snarls as drivers gawk at the lights, the holiday cheer can dissipate. The sounds of frustrated honking and shouts of “Come ON! LET’S GO!” compete with the classic holiday songs blasting from nearby homes. Adding a touch of South Philly absurdity, someone even left a toilet on the sidewalk next to an inflatable Mickey Mouse Santa, a bizarre street-side installation that remained for days.
A South Philly Holiday Tradition
Despite the occasional chaos and quirky displays, the Miracle on 13th Street is undeniably a neighborhood gem. This is my neighborhood, where friendly elderly Italian men greet my dog with “Hey there, killer!”, where every holiday is celebrated with gusto in front yards, and where dog walkers are as common as the evening commuters streaming from the Broad Street Line.
As Christmas draws nearer, the crowds thicken, and navigating the sidewalk becomes a festive obstacle course. I tend to avoid the block on nights when costumed characters – giant gingerbread men, Grinches, and Santas – are out embracing (possibly tipsy) revelers in Eagles and Flyers gear. Come January, I won’t miss the inflatable snowmen, flashing lights, and the ghostly Santa projections. But until then, my nightly walks down the Miracle on 13th Street have become more than just a habit; they’re a unique and surprisingly heartwarming part of my holiday season.
Weeks ago, strolling hand-in-hand with a new (and improved) date to grab pizza from Francoluigi’s, we inadvertently walked right into a 6ABC news camera crew filming the spectacle. Whether we made the evening news remains a mystery. But if we did, we were just two more faces in the crowd, happily soaking in the Miracle on 13th Street.
What, When, Where
The Miracle on South 13th Street. 13th Street between Tasker and Morris Streets, South Philadelphia. On display through January 1st.
