Butter, garlic, basil, fresh clams, and perfectly cooked pasta – sometimes, the simplest combinations are the most unforgettable. At Street and Co. in Portland, Maine, this philosophy is not just a concept, it’s a 26-year legacy. The iconic clams in white sauce with linguine has graced their menu since day one, and after just one twirl of pasta and a taste of a plump clam, it’s clear why both this dish and Street And Company Portland itself have stood the test of time. There’s an undeniable magic that emanates from their well-used sauté pans, arriving at your table steaming, fragrant, and utterly irresistible.
On this occasion, I had the pleasure of sharing this signature dish with Dana Street, the owner of Street and Co. and co-owner of Fore Street and the newly anticipated Scales on Maine Wharf. Despite being our first meeting, a shared passion for exceptional food made for an effortless and engaging conversation.
He recounted the story behind another beloved menu item, the sole française. Initially named sole meuniére, paying homage to the classic French preparation with brown butter, parsley, and lemon, a memorable encounter led to a name change. The legendary Julia Child, a diner at Street and Co., was the catalyst. Knowing Julia Child’s culinary journey began with a transformative sole meuniére experience in Rouen, France, Dana Street, to avoid any potential misinterpretation of their non-traditional approach, swiftly renamed it sole française. We savored this dish as well, and much like the linguine, its simplicity belies a depth of flavor that surpasses the sum of its humble ingredients. A delicate sole fillet, lightly coated in flour and egg wash, is expertly seared in one of those seasoned skillets. The accompanying potatoes become vessels for soaking up the rich, nutty brown butter that elevates the dish to pure indulgence. Regardless of the name, its deliciousness is undeniable, a sentiment I’m confident Julia Child would wholeheartedly share.
While Dana Street may not be in the kitchen daily, the culinary heart of Street and Co. beats strongly under the direction of Chef King Bishop. Bishop, who began his journey at the restaurant ten years ago crafting salads, has risen through the ranks to helm the small, yet dynamic open kitchen. He holds a deep respect for Street and Co.’s classic dishes, but he’s also injecting his own creativity into many of the sides and specials. His innovative approach extends to the marina sauce, enriched with lobster shells during simmering to create a more profound flavor profile. Salads and vegetable preparations are in constant evolution, reflecting Bishop’s commitment to seasonal ingredients and cutting-edge techniques. Local farms are the restaurant’s lifeblood for produce, evidenced by the arrival of two substantial boxes brimming with pristine shiitake mushrooms during our visit.
On a bustling evening, the kitchen expertly orchestrates the creation of over 300 plates, delighting diners within a setting of unpretentious rustic elegance. Dried chili peppers and garlic bulbs adorn wooden beams, exposed brick walls add warmth, and wide-planked old pine floors ground the space in history. Copper tabletops are not just aesthetically pleasing; they are functional, designed to accommodate the searing hot sauté pans straight from the stove. The oyster bar is a focal point, showcasing the day’s fresh catches and offering comfortable seating for guests to enjoy a curated selection of Italian or French wines from their extensive list, perhaps paired with a tempting bite from the “Tastes” menu.
Each Saturday morning, Chef Bishop’s dedication to quality begins before dawn. With a coffee in hand, he makes his way down Commercial Street to Upstream Trucking, a wholesale fish seller co-owned by Street. Here, he has first pick of the freshest seafood sourced from Maine and the broader East Coast, a crucial step in developing the day’s specials and ensuring every diner experiences seafood of unparalleled quality. This unwavering commitment to excellence is undoubtedly the key ingredient in Street and Co.’s enduring success, poised to thrive for another 26 years and beyond in Portland’s vibrant culinary scene.
Street and Co. | 33 Wharf St. | Portland | 207.775.0887 | streetandcompany.net
