Parm Vesey Street: A Downtown Twist on Italian-American Comfort Food

Years ago, my first encounter with the original Parm on Mulberry Street left me wanting. Despite a glowing two-star review from Pete Wells, the experience felt underwhelming. The eggplant parm sandwich was forgettable, the broccoli rabe was cold, and the service was inconsistent. It’s safe to say, I wasn’t rushing back.

Parm Brookfield Place door

However, knowing Parm’s popularity, my curiosity was piqued when they opened a new location in Battery Park City, specifically on Vesey Street. Located within Brookfield Place at 250 Vesey Street, this Parm promised a fresh take on their Italian-American classics in a new downtown setting. Stepping into the L-shaped space, accessible from Vesey Street or through 250 Vesey, you’re met with a divided layout. The front area buzzes with high-top tables, a lengthy curved bar, televisions, and a substantial takeout counter. Further in, a back room offers a more traditional dining setup with tables and booths.

The decor of Parm Vesey Street leans heavily into Italian-American kitsch. Red is the dominant color, amplified by Formica surfaces, tin ceilings, and vintage-style wallpaper. Stacks of tomato cans and classic tunes playing in the background complete the picture. While this style might feel authentic in a Little Italy tenement, it strikes a slightly different chord within a modern office complex like Brookfield Place. The intended homage feels a touch less genuine in this context.

Parm Brookfield Place dine-in menu

But let’s be honest, people don’t flock to Parm for cutting-edge interior design. The menu at Parm Vesey Street is a comforting embrace of Italian-American favorites. Sandwiches are the stars, available as platters for the carb-conscious, alongside a tempting array of starters, salads, pastas, and dine-in only entrées. During my initial lunch visit, determined to sample as much as possible, I opted for the fried zucchini, an eggplant parm sandwich, and a side of garlic broccoli. As a delightful bonus, Parm presented a complimentary fried mozzarella stick as an amuse-bouche.

The fried zucchini was a standout – thinly sliced, perfectly crisp, and enhanced by fragrant fried herbs. And the eggplant parm sandwich? A revelation! Significantly better than my previous experience. However, the presentation in a paper-lined plastic basket felt slightly casual for the quality of the sandwich. As the sandwich became more indulgent, I resorted to using a knife and fork, inadvertently encountering the paper lining with each cut. Unfortunately, the garlic broccoli was the only dish that missed the mark, consisting mainly of stems, as captured in the photos below.

Parm Battery Park City fried zucchini2

What the service at Parm Vesey Street might lack in formal refinement, it more than compensates for with genuine enthusiasm. The bartender’s friendly demeanor and eagerness to share dessert options, even when declined, created a welcoming atmosphere.

Later that evening, seeking a lighter dinner, I returned to Parm Vesey Street. While hoping for a table, I was offered a high-top counter spot too close for comfort to another couple. I settled back at the bar, where the music had shifted to a slightly more contemporary vibe, featuring artists like Michael Jackson and Robert Palmer. I chose a beet Negroni, a salad of arugula and figs, and penne with shrimp and pesto. While the menu didn’t specify that the figs were dried, each dish was undeniably delicious. The penne pasta was exceptionally thick, almost like cavatelli, suggesting it might be house-made. The shrimp were cooked to perfection and genuinely tasted of shrimp. Most impressively, the pasta arrived piping hot – a rare and appreciated detail in many restaurants.

Parm Battery Park City penne pesto shrimp

The bartender’s dessert recommendations continued, this time highlighting the Firecracker ice cream cake with cherry, lemon, and blue raspberry flavors, sparking a humorous exchange about the mysterious “blue raspberry.” The playful banter and the menu’s embrace of nostalgic treats like mozzarella sticks and cakes inspired by Popsicles and Carvel, all contribute to Parm Vesey Street’s unique charm.

My perspective on Parm has completely shifted since my initial visit years ago. While the overall concept might feel slightly retro, the food itself is consistently excellent. It’s a step above what the casual setting and menu might suggest, showcasing a level of sophistication in execution that is truly impressive. As Parm expands, I sincerely hope they maintain this commitment to quality and avoid compromising the food in pursuit of wider appeal.

For those looking for takeout, Parm Vesey Street also features a build-your-own sandwich option at the counter. A recent experience with a custom hero sandwich revealed a slight drawback – while tasty, the cheese and tomato portions were a bit skimpy for the price. It’s worth noting that prices aren’t prominently displayed at the takeout counter.

Parm Battery Park City offers limited reservations via email and OpenTable, but primarily operates on a first-come, first-served basis. Its family-friendly atmosphere makes it a likely hit with kids, even without a dedicated children’s menu.

In conclusion, Parm Vesey Street offers a surprisingly delightful dining experience. Don’t let the kitschy decor or casual vibe fool you – the food is the real deal, offering well-executed Italian-American classics that are sure to satisfy. Whether you’re grabbing a quick lunch, enjoying a relaxed dinner, or seeking comforting takeout, Parm Vesey Street is a welcome addition to the Brookfield Place dining scene.

Parm is located at 250 Vesey St. (between West St. and North End Ave.), New York, NY 10281. You can contact them at 212-776-4927 or visit their website parmnyc.com.

Parm Brookfield Place bar2