Years had passed since my last visit to San Francisco’s vibrant Chinatown, and a wave of nostalgia led me back to House of Nanking on Kearny Street. After some leisurely shopping and city exploration, hunger pangs were mild, but the desire to revisit this old haunt was strong. Back in the days before online restaurant guides became ubiquitous, a clearance Zagat guide pointed me towards House of Nanking. Even then, it was a popular spot, with lines snaking down the sidewalk during peak hours. The clientele was largely tourists and non-Asian patrons, whispering about the rumored “rude service” as if it were a badge of honor, a sign of “authentic” Chinese cuisine only known to locals. As an Asian diner myself, I remember feeling slightly out of place in those lines.
Truthfully, specific dishes from my past visits were hazy memories. This revisit was more about curiosity – seeing what had become of this once-familiar place, House of Nanking at 919 Kearny Street, San Francisco, CA.
Settling into a table by the open windows, a welcome breeze drifting in, I immediately noticed changes.
Ambiance and Décor Transformation
Gone was the bare-bones décor of my memory. House of Nanking had undergone a noticeable remodel. Dark wood paneling now adorned the walls, creating a warmer, more contemporary feel. The open kitchen, once a central feature, was relocated, resulting in a more spacious and intentionally decorated dining area. This wasn’t the same spartan eatery I remembered from Zagat.
Adding to the restaurant’s updated ambiance were unexpected touches – photos of celebrity diners.
Celebrity Sightings at House of Nanking
It turns out House of Nanking has become somewhat of a celebrity magnet. Photos on display showcased famous faces who had dined within its walls. Jamie Oliver was there, and so was Sean Penn.
Perhaps the most surprising, and certainly most viewed photo online from my visit, was of a slightly scruffy Keanu Reeves. I knew my friend Lan from Angry Asian Creations would appreciate that! Keanu at House of Nanking – it’s definitely a conversation starter.
The Famous Nanking Sesame Chicken and More
Of course, the main reason for visiting House of Nanking is the food. We ordered their renowned Nanking sesame chicken ($9.95). Described as crispy chicken in a signature Nanking honey sauce with sweet potatoes, it arrived looking and smelling delicious.
That “signature honey sauce”? It tasted distinctly like Xi Muoi, Vietnamese/Chinese preserved plums. Combined with chayote, it’s a unique flavor profile. For someone less familiar with Chinese cuisine, it might come across as an “exotic” take on sweet and sour. While I enjoyed it – I do have a soft spot for Americanized Chinese dishes like orange chicken and Mongolian beef – it’s definitely on the sweeter side. I even started thinking about how to recreate this Nanking sesame chicken at home.
We also tried the fried tofu in peanut sauce ($6.95).
The tofu was perfectly crisp on the outside and silky smooth inside, and the accompanying green beans were a nice touch. The fried Chinese eggplant with house chili black bean sauce ($5.95) was another hit.
It came loaded with a surprising variety of vegetables – baby corn, napa cabbage, and more chayote, in addition to the tender eggplant. I always admire the vibrant purple hue of eggplant before cooking, as it inevitably fades when I prepare it at home.
Finally, we sampled the house fried rice ($8.95).
This dish, with eggs, peas, zucchini, eggplant, shredded sweet potato, and savory spices, was actually quite memorable. Thinking back, I believe the fried rice was a highlight of the meal. Though, the portion size did seem a tad small on the large plate.
Americanized Chinese Food in San Francisco’s Chinatown?
It’s somewhat amusing that such an overtly Americanized Chinese restaurant thrives in San Francisco, especially so close to the heart of Chinatown. House of Nanking, located just a block from the Kearny Street parking garage and technically in the Financial District but bordering Chinatown, occupies an interesting niche.
As we waited for the bill, a local pulled up on a motorcycle, clearly a regular. He chatted easily with the waitress, trusting the chef to send out whatever he recommended. It made me wonder if he perceived House of Nanking as “authentic” Chinese food, or if, like me, he appreciated it for its unique, Americanized charm.
Despite being stuffed from what was essentially our third lunch of the day, and with dinner plans looming, revisiting House of Nanking was a worthwhile and nostalgic culinary detour in San Francisco.
House of Nanking
919 Kearny St.
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-421-1429
Hours:
Monday to Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Saturday noon to 10 p.m.
Sunday noon to 9 p.m.
