South Street in Philadelphia, once celebrated as the city’s most vibrant and eclectic thoroughfare, is navigating a complex journey of rediscovery. While other areas of Philadelphia experience a renaissance, South Street faces challenges in redefining its identity and purpose. Can this iconic street, synonymous with Philly’s unique spirit, reclaim its former glory and thrive once more?
Mike Harris, the Executive Director of the South Street Headhouse District, embodies the proactive spirit needed for this revitalization. Standing on South Street, he passionately outlines the plans for the new Headhouse Square plaza, enthusiastically pointing out the future curb lines. His fervor for mundane details like curbs speaks volumes about his dedication to improving the area. He emphasizes the safety concerns of the current intersection, highlighting the urgent need for improvements within the South Street Philadelphia area. For six years, Harris has been at the helm of the South Street Headhouse District, an organization dedicated to the upkeep and functionality of this historic street, the second oldest business improvement district in Philadelphia after Center City. His casual attire and salt-and-pepper hair belie his crucial role as a steward of a neighborhood renowned for its unconventional character.
Looking north towards the Headhouse Shambles, the potential of the redesigned plaza begins to emerge. Despite community feedback leading to a scaled-back version of the original vision, the renderings suggest inviting stone walkways, verdant grass patches, and benches designed for leisurely coffee breaks after market visits. However, the current reality paints a starkly different picture. The fire-damaged Bridget Foy’s stands as a somber reminder of recent hardships. The entire north side of South Street from 2nd to 3rd Street is largely deserted, save for a closed Rita’s, projecting a winter gloom that overshadows any envisioned improvements. This particular corner vividly illustrates the struggles facing South Street Philadelphia.
While this intersection presents an extreme case, the broader stretch of South Street, from 9th to Front Street, also reflects these challenges. Numerous ground-level vacancies, some lingering for years, and storefronts desperately needing renovation are readily apparent. South Street’s edgy establishments, while part of its identity, sometimes detract from its overall appeal: tattoo parlors, adult boutiques, and bars with signs cautioning against balcony object-throwing. Yet, interspersed among these are beacons of hope: Stephen Starr’s acclaimed Serpico, the relatively new MilkBoy, upscale retailers like Totem Brand, the legendary Jim’s Steaks, and Eye’s Gallery, a testament to the street’s enduring artistic spirit, established by Julia and Isaiah Zagar decades ago.
This eclectic mix of businesses results in a fragmented customer base, creating a duality in South Street’s atmosphere. During daylight hours, the street can feel deserted and somewhat rundown, contrasting sharply with the vibrant life of the adjacent Society Hill and Queen Village neighborhoods. However, as night descends, particularly on weekends and during the summer months, South Street transforms. It becomes a bustling hub, attracting a diverse crowd of teenagers and young adults from across Philadelphia, drawn to its bar scene and social atmosphere. This nighttime vibrancy, while energetic, represents just one facet of South Street Philadelphia, a place of leisure and entertainment for many.
As a resident near South Street since 2008, the street’s initial allure was undeniable. It evoked memories of St. Mark’s Place in New York City’s East Village, a cherished destination. South Street’s blend of history, diverse shops, unique aromas, and intriguing characters was precisely what distinguished Philadelphia – a city rich in history. The organic, unmanufactured nature of South Street is something that could not be replicated today, regardless of effort.
This inherent character is why South Street Philadelphia resonates with so many Philadelphians, each holding personal anecdotes connected to the street. From witnessing Morgan Freeman’s performances at the Theatre of the Living Arts in the 1960s to dancing at the Black Banana in the 1970s, procuring vibrant hair dyes at Zipperhead in the 1980s, or experiencing Nirvana at J.C. Dobbs in the 1990s, South Street has been a backdrop to countless memories. The Orlons’ 1963 hit song proclaimed South Street “the hippest street in town,” a sentiment that held true for decades.
However, today, this legacy seems to be the primary force sustaining the street. South Street Philadelphia risks becoming a relic, clinging to past glories. It’s akin to a seasoned rocker stubbornly adhering to outdated fashion trends, a parallel to Keith Richards’ enduring but perhaps slightly anachronistic image.
Over the past fifteen years, neighborhoods like Midtown Village, East Passyunk Avenue, Frankford Avenue, and Fabric Row, located just a block from South Street at 4th and Bainbridge, have undergone remarkable transformations. Yet, South Street seems to lag, lacking clear direction. The reasons behind this stagnation amidst citywide revitalization are complex, rooted in fundamental questions of identity and purpose. While other rejuvenated streets have defined missions, South Street’s is more elusive. Mike Harris emphasizes the desire to avoid homogenization, aiming for a “sweet-spot mix” of engaging entertainment and visual appeal that leaves visitors impressed.
Achieving this balance, Harris acknowledges, is a significant challenge. South Street’s future hinges on a critical, multifaceted question: Can it successfully revert to being a neighborhood-serving retail hub, while simultaneously functioning as a vibrant entertainment destination for all Philadelphians, and crucially, preserve the bohemian essence that defined its unique charm?
Despite the challenges, Harris maintains an optimistic outlook. “I’m optimistic,” he states, “But I’m not blind to the challenges we have.”
Buildings along the 300 block of South Street in Philadelphia, showcasing typical architecture and streetscape.
Eye’s Gallery, a long-standing fixture on South Street, provides a glimpse into the street’s unique character. Despite countless prior walks past its vibrant storefront, a recent visit revealed “pure magic.” Founded by Julia and Isaiah Zagar in 1968, the gallery’s interior and exterior are adorned with Isaiah’s signature mosaics, creating a dazzling visual experience. Julia Zagar, still actively involved at 78, exudes a vibrant energy as she interacts with customers, showcasing newly acquired crafts from Guatemala.
For fifty years, Eye’s Gallery has championed fair trade, selling handcrafted goods from Latin America. The gallery transcends the typical retail experience, resembling a museum with its abundance of paper flowers, silver jewelry, and Day of the Dead figurines, all displayed against saffron-colored walls. The Zagars were pioneers of ethical sourcing long before it became a mainstream movement.
Even on a notably cold Tuesday afternoon in March, the gallery attracts a diverse crowd. Julia notes visitors from distant states and international tourists, alongside loyal local customers. While acknowledging the changes over time, she affirms the gallery’s continued existence and relevance within the evolving landscape of South Street Philadelphia.
The Zagars’ enduring presence embodies the quirky, counter-cultural spirit that many Philadelphians fondly associate with South Street. However, the street’s history extends far beyond this era. Originally named Cedar Street, it was part of William Penn’s original city grid in the 1680s. Its riverside location and position between different jurisdictions fostered a natural environment for bars, restaurants, and nightlife. South Street was a recognized entertainment district centuries before modern establishments arrived. By the early 1800s, it became a significant hub for African Americans. Later, with the influx of immigrants through Washington Avenue Pier towards the end of the 19th century, the area transformed into a shopping district catering to Southern and Eastern Europeans. By the 20th century, fabric stores and Jewish delis like Famous 4th Street Deli became integral parts of South Street’s commercial identity.
This historical context is crucial for understanding South Street’s present situation. In the late 1950s, a government plan to convert South Street into an eight-lane expressway connecting I-95 and I-76 threatened to fundamentally alter the neighborhood. This proposal faced strong opposition, and the ensuing decade-long dispute significantly damaged the once-thriving area. Businesses closed, residents relocated, and properties deteriorated under the shadow of potential demolition.
Yet, amidst decline, seeds of renewal were sown. On the eastern side of South Street Philadelphia, pioneers like the Zagars, alongside other artists and free spirits attracted by affordable rents, began establishing galleries, restaurants, and coffeehouses. The Theatre of the Living Arts (TLA), debuting in 1965 as a repertory theater, became a symbol of this bohemian resurgence.
The expressway project was officially abandoned in 1972. Subsequently, South Street continued its evolution as a hub of counterculture. Essene, a natural foods store, opened; Giovanni’s Room became a vital space for the gay community; and a vibrant punk scene emerged, with bands like the Ramones performing at Stephen Starr’s Ripley Music Hall in 1983. South Street gained international recognition, attracting tourists and solidifying Philadelphia’s cool urban identity.
This narrative of decline followed by artistic revival is not unique to South Street Philadelphia. Many neighborhoods have experienced similar cycles: economic downturn leading to lower rents, attracting artists, increasing neighborhood appeal, subsequently attracting developers and higher-paying businesses.
This pattern played out on South Street. The 1980s and 1990s saw the arrival of chain stores like Gap, Tower Records, Blockbuster, and TGI Fridays. Many locally owned, idiosyncratic businesses were displaced, diminishing the street’s unique character. The “hippest street in town” gradually transformed into something resembling a generic mall experience.
A vibrant street scene from South Street Philadelphia, capturing the eclectic mix of shops and pedestrians.
Mike Harris, originally from St. Louis and with a background in civic administration and operations, recounts this history over breakfast at Ants Pants cafe on 4th Street. He illustrates South Street’s cyclical journey, charting a timeline that culminates in the 2008 recession. He suggests the economic downturn exacerbated existing issues.
However, even without the recession, South Street Philadelphia faced mounting challenges in the 2000s. Chain stores began to depart, and the street became an incongruous blend of businesses that neither effectively served the local community nor offered a compelling destination experience. Many restaurants were unremarkable, and the bar scene became increasingly unruly, contributing to South Street’s association with the 2001 Mardi Gras Riot.
Despite these issues, Harris contends against romanticizing the past, suggesting that the present situation is not as dire as commonly perceived. He challenges the nostalgic view of South Street’s “golden age,” prompting reflection on individual definitions of “good times.” He emphasizes the importance of recognizing and promoting South Street’s existing “gems” and hidden attractions.
While South Street’s trajectory might be part of a typical urban cycle, as Harris illustrates, it has seemingly become stuck. The street still attracts a million annual visitors, preventing a complete economic collapse. However, this moderate success paradoxically hinders significant change, as the situation isn’t perceived as broken enough to warrant drastic interventions.
Philadelphia is currently experiencing a retail corridor renaissance. Tony Goldman’s successful revitalization of Midtown Village in the early 2000s and Vince Fumo’s similar approach to East Passyunk Avenue provide successful models. These transformations shared a common starting point: neighborhoods that had reached economic rock bottom. This allowed for property accumulation at low values, enabling developers and business improvement districts to strategically curate businesses and services to stimulate economic growth. This often began with attracting creative capital – artists, startups, trendy bars, and emerging chefs.
Mike Harris envisions a similar revitalization strategy for South Street Philadelphia, focusing on attracting businesses that cater to the needs of local residents in Society Hill and Queen Village. A key challenge lies in the divergent trajectories of South Street and its neighboring residential areas. While South Street declined, Society Hill and Queen Village flourished, attracting new residents and experiencing soaring property values. This created a disconnect, with residents increasingly avoiding South Street, perceiving it as misaligned with their needs and preferences.
Harris proposes a wish list of businesses to bridge this gap: a brewpub, a distillery tasting room, an arcade, and more family-oriented establishments like toy stores. He highlights the recent opening of Rocket Fizz candy store as a positive step and expresses hope for a significant tenant to occupy the vacant Johnny Rockets space. The long-proposed supermarket for the 200 block remains a key element of his vision.
Harris emphasizes that attracting new, neighborhood-serving businesses does not necessitate displacing existing, long-standing establishments. He points to Eye’s Gallery, Mineralistic, and Mutt Airbrush as examples of businesses that have contributed to South Street’s character for decades. His vision is encapsulated in a tagline: “Come for your old favorites, discover some new ones while you’re here.”
He also stresses the importance of preserving and promoting the businesses that draw visitors to South Street Philadelphia as a destination. He draws inspiration from streets like Carson Street in Pittsburgh, Frenchmen Street in New Orleans, Haight-Ashbury in San Francisco, and the Plateau district in Montreal, all of which have successfully balanced local needs with tourist appeal. While East Passyunk and Frankford Avenue are success stories, South Street’s historical role as a destination for all Philadelphians distinguishes it and necessitates a different approach to revitalization.
Scenes from South Street Philadelphia, showcasing the variety of storefronts and the street's dynamic atmosphere.
The primary obstacle hindering this vision is the fragmented property ownership along South Street Philadelphia. Unlike Tony Goldman’s Midtown Village strategy, where consolidated property ownership was key, South Street is characterized by numerous, often absentee landlords, many of whom seem less invested in the street’s overall vitality. Paul Levy highlights the issue of “local control” being lost as markets improve, questioning whether landlords prioritize coordinated tenant strategies for the benefit of the entire street. He suggests this coordinated approach was lacking during South Street’s decline in the 1980s and 1990s.
Michael Axelrod, a New York-based developer, exemplifies this challenge. Owning over 40 properties on South Street since the 1980s, his approach is opaque, as he reportedly avoids press communication. His property at 6th and South, formerly a McDonald’s, has remained vacant for nearly a decade. This illustrates the complex economics of commercial real estate, where landlords may prioritize higher-rent tenants even at the cost of prolonged vacancies. Such property owners, while potentially hindering immediate progress, are also implicitly betting on the eventual revitalization of South Street.
Currently, businesses that can afford the high rents on South Street Philadelphia tend to be generic chains like sneaker stores and cell phone retailers, which do little to enhance the street’s unique appeal. A generic shopping district is unsustainable in this location.
Harris acknowledges the vacancy issue but emphasizes the need for a balanced retail landscape. He positions the SSHD as “matchmakers,” connecting potential investors and businesses with property owners. Simultaneously, they actively seek out businesses that align with their revitalization vision.
The role of the city government also comes into question. Should Philadelphia implement policies to incentivize property owners to fill vacancies or penalize prolonged empty storefronts? Stephen Starr suggests the city should actively court retailers to South Street, similar to efforts made to attract large corporations like Amazon.
A positive development is Midwood Investment & Development, a New York-based firm with a strong track record in Philadelphia, acquiring 11 of Axelrod’s properties in 2016. Midwood is locally respected, and Ron Bondy, their executive vice president of leasing, indicates a case-by-case review of leases on South Street, aiming to attract relevant new businesses.
Bondy highlights food and dining, along with “relevant retail” like cheese shops, butcheries, and bakeries, as crucial for drawing daily foot traffic to South Street Philadelphia. However, progress is incremental. Revitalization in established areas like South Street happens gradually, one business at a time, making overall progress seem slow and less visible.
Harris believes local residents may understate their current usage of South Street Philadelphia businesses. He suggests many residents do patronize establishments like Bistro Romano, Bridget Foy’s, or Cozy Nails, even if they don’t explicitly acknowledge it.
The positive aspects of South Street can be obscured by the vacancies and less appealing businesses. Many storefronts are in need of renovation. While areas like MilkBoy, Villa, KicksUSA, and Serpico showcase successful renovations, they also highlight the shabbiness of neighboring properties. Despite having over 400 businesses in the SSHD, reduced crime rates, and fewer adult shops than in the past, changing negative perceptions remains a challenge.
Harris has implemented tangible improvements. Enhanced street cleaning, new lighting installations on Fabric Row and South Street, and secured funding for storefront renovations are underway. Parking rule adjustments have reduced late-night loitering and litter. He has also created events like Spring Fest and family-friendly holiday celebrations. By most accounts, his tenure has been more impactful than his predecessors.
The upcoming Headhouse Square plaza renovation, breaking ground this summer, represents Harris’s most visible achievement. While scaled back from more ambitious initial plans, it will improve pedestrian safety and aesthetics. However, it remains a sprucing up rather than a transformative project. Past successes in Philadelphia, like Dilworth Park and the Schuylkill River Trail, demonstrate the transformative potential of public spaces, a scale of change perhaps not fully realized in the Headhouse Square project.
Despite these positive developments, the palpable excitement seen in the revitalization of areas like Frankford Avenue is not yet evident on South Street Philadelphia. Perhaps South Street’s revitalization cycle is simply progressing more slowly. The unique challenges it faces may necessitate a longer period for significant transformation.
A generational shift might be key to accelerating this process. The revitalization of Fabric Row, driven by new businesses like Paradigm Gallery, Bus Stop Boutique, Yowie, Hungry Pigeon, and Moon + Arrow, exemplifies this. These businesses are characterized by engaged owners, unique offerings, and a belief in authenticity and history, echoing the spirit of Eye’s Gallery in the 1960s. Paul Levy suggests that Fabric Row’s resurgence is “sneaking up on” and positively influencing South Street.
These new business owners are not only injecting life into the SSHD but also bringing fresh perspectives, innovative ideas, and a commitment to preserving South Street’s authentic character. Sara McCorriston, owner of Paradigm Gallery, emphasizes embracing South Street’s inherent “weirdness” as a strength.
This new generation understands the importance of balancing preservation – of fabric stores, tattoo shops, bars – with providing amenities for local residents. They recognize that erasing South Street’s East Village-esque charm, its unconventional history, and even its lively nightlife, would diminish its unique appeal and Philadelphia’s overall character. South Street Philadelphia’s enduring strength lies in its ability to be a destination “for all people.”
This is a crucial lesson for local residents to remember. Exploring South Street in detail revealed previously unnoticed shops, introduced new proprietors, and fostered a deeper connection with the street’s diverse community. The vibrant mix of first-generation business owners, families, and teenagers defining their identities creates a unique and committed community. Focusing on the positive – new businesses, long-standing establishments, and reopened favorites – reveals a community dedicated to creating the best possible version of South Street. This deeper engagement fosters an appreciation for South Street Philadelphia, empty storefronts and all, recognizing its enduring potential and unique place within the city.
Published as “Remember When This Was the Hippest Street in Town?” in the May 2018 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
