Greenwich, Connecticut, boasts a vibrant and competitive restaurant scene, where many establishments come and go. Yet, for nearly three decades, Elm Street Oyster House has not only survived but thrived, becoming a beloved institution. For those in the know, the most sought-after spot in town might just be a corner seat at the bustling bar of Elm Street Oyster House. This enduring popularity is thanks to Billy Kulhanek, who for 28 years has dedicated himself to serving the freshest seafood in Greenwich. When asked about his secret to longevity in such a demanding industry, Kulhanek simply states, “Focus.”
Kulhanek explains that the restaurant business is a constant, daily effort. “You need to focus on the customer, the food, and the overall experience,” he says, emphasizing the importance of continuous learning and adaptation. Stepping into Elm Street Oyster House is akin to a seafood lover’s version of the iconic “Cheers” bar – a place where camaraderie flourishes, and the shared experience revolves around exceptional seafood rather than just beers. And, as Billy proudly points out, patrons can also indulge in what many consider to be the best cheeseburger in Greenwich.
The story of Elm Street Oyster House began 33 years ago when Billy and his parents opened Elm Street Café in the space that now houses the bar area. As their ambition grew, they expanded into the adjacent space when Enterprise Rent-a-Car relocated. However, Billy still felt a sense of uncertainty about their future. Seeking guidance, he turned to two trusted friends, Jim Sullivan and Jan Fabry. Their advice was pivotal: “Open a seafood restaurant.” More than just advisors, Jim and Jan decided to join forces, becoming partners in what would become a Greenwich dining landmark.
“We actually signed the partnership agreement at Terra, another well-known Greenwich restaurant just up the street. They might be technically older than us, but I’ve been at this location slightly longer,” Billy recounts with a smile. This handshake at Terra marked the beginning of a lasting partnership and solidified Elm Street Oyster House’s place in the Greenwich culinary landscape. Jim and Jan later went on to establish the Pearl Management Group, a successful venture that includes popular Westchester restaurants like Rye Bar and Grill, Ruby’s Oyster Bar, and The Tap House.
Interestingly, the restaurant industry wasn’t Billy Kulhanek’s initial career path. He initially pursued a career in animation, inspired by his sister, a pioneering woman cameraman in the field. However, Greenwich’s thriving food scene ultimately benefited from Billy’s change of heart. After gaining experience as a bartender and waiter, Billy realized that ownership and culinary expertise were the keys to success in the restaurant world. Forgoing formal culinary school, he immersed himself in cookbooks and honed his skills in various kitchens, becoming a self-taught chef. Today, he proudly creates all the dishes on the Elm Street Oyster House menu, though he remains open to evolution. “You always have to learn and adapt,” he notes, “I value suggestions from my staff on how to refine and improve our dishes.”
Another key ingredient to Elm Street Oyster House’s enduring success is its remarkably loyal staff. It’s not just Billy who has been a constant presence; waiters Jaime and Abdul have dedicated 27 and a half and 26 years, respectively, to the restaurant. In an industry known for high turnover, this longevity is exceptional. Billy explains, “For them, this isn’t just a job; it’s a profession. They’ve put their children through college working here. They take genuine pride in creating an exceptional dining experience and fostering repeat customers.”
And of course, the consistently fresh, high-quality seafood is a major draw for returning customers.
For 28 years, Billy has maintained a nightly ritual, calling Len Sbordone at ARS Fish at 11:00 pm to place his seafood order. Sbordone makes daily predawn trips to Hunt’s Point, selecting the freshest catches directly off the boats. “Len’s fish is simply the best,” Billy states. “A busy seafood restaurant is ideal because it means we’re buying and serving the freshest product daily.”
When the Covid-19 pandemic struck, Elm Street Oyster House, like all restaurants, faced unprecedented challenges. Through adaptability, offering take-out, and embracing outdoor dining, Elm Street managed to weather the storm. Billy is quick to acknowledge the support they received, “Thank God for Fred Camillo and the outdoor dining accommodations,” he says. “Fred truly saved Greenwich’s restaurants.”
As winter approached during the pandemic, Billy decided to undertake a renovation of the restaurant, which he felt was “beat-up” and in need of a refresh. While the layout remains familiar, significant improvements have been made. Elm Street Oyster House is now fully accessible and features a completely rebuilt kitchen and cooking area with state-of-the-art equipment. Every surface has been обновлен.
When asked about his favorite renovation aspect, Billy points to a surprising detail: “People absolutely love the new wallpaper in the bathrooms, with its playful lemon and oyster motif.” However, some beloved elements remain unchanged. Above the bar, the famous reproduction of John Singer Sargent’s “Madame X” still presides, now with unique, restaurant-themed embellishments. Billy explains that his friend and fellow Greenwich resident, Jeff Danberg, who also painted the fish mural in the main dining room, was the artist behind these additions. During a conversation about refreshing the space above the bar, Jeff revealed his talent as a copiest, capable of reproducing famous paintings.
The idea of a customized “Madame X” emerged, incorporating elements representing Elm Street Oyster House: an oyster, a glass of champagne, and a candle. Billy chuckles, “The oyster and champagne made it in, but we’ve never had candles on the tables at Elm Street – too dangerous!”
Despite the demanding hours he dedicates to the restaurant, Billy Kulhanek has a rich life outside of Elm Street Oyster House. He is an avid reader and history enthusiast, often immersed in three books simultaneously. Currently, his reading list includes Bernard Cornwell’s “Sharpe’s Assassination” and Max Hastings’s “Operation Pedestal,” both by favorite authors. The eclectic and enjoyable background music at Elm Street Oyster House is also curated by Billy, drawn from his extensive Apple Music library of 16,000 songs. “People seem to appreciate the music from the 60s and 70s the most,” he observes.
For relaxation, Billy enjoys building model airplanes and cherishes time with his two cats, Harry and Chrissie, named in honor of people who have shown him kindness. Harry was a helpful refrigerator repairman, and Chrissie was a former girlfriend. When asked about his personal favorite dish on the menu, Billy immediately names the Tuna Wasabi, a creation from 28 years ago that remains a favorite of both his and his customers.
Over the decades, Billy has witnessed countless heartwarming moments at Elm Street Oyster House, like strangers spontaneously covering another customer’s bill simply due to enjoyable conversation. He cherishes the stories of couples who return, reminiscing, “Our first date was here, and now we’re married.” He’s now seeing the adult children of long-time patrons become regulars themselves.
Billy has many cherished customer anecdotes, but one particular patron, whom he affectionately nicknames “Tuna Carpaccio,” always brings a smile. This older gentleman, over the years, has brought a series of dates to the restaurant, seemingly attempting to impress them by grandly ordering the tuna carpaccio. Despite its deliciousness, Billy still finds humor in the idea that this dish is considered particularly impressive on a date.
Elm Street Oyster House has also attracted its share of celebrity clientele, including names like Mariah Carey, Leonardo DiCaprio, Robert Plant, Tommy Hilfiger, and Bruce Springsteen. Billy mentions, “We get a lot of basketball players too, but I’m not really into basketball, so I can’t name them. Please don’t tell them that!”
For 28 years and counting, Elm Street Oyster House remains a beloved Greenwich destination. Billy summarizes its enduring appeal: “The bar has that ‘Cheers’ vibe, the dining room is romantic, and the outdoor seating is a true blessing.” When asked if he would change anything about his journey, Billy responds without hesitation, “No. I wouldn’t change a thing. Things happen for a reason. If I had done things differently, something equally good might not have occurred. I have two fantastic partners, and we’re still in it together. It’s pretty amazing.”
Cheers to Elm Street Oyster House, a Greenwich gem!
Elm Street Oyster House is located at 11 W Elm St, Greenwich, CT 06830. For reservations or inquiries, call (203) 629-5795.
