For years, I’ve embarked on a personal quest to truly understand Italian cooking, often feeling like an eager student, slightly behind but always willing to learn. This feeling is perfectly captured by the knowing glances I receive from the Vittozzi sisters – Rosa, Anna, Veronica, Enza, and Elena. These culinary masters, undoubtedly inheriting their skills from generations past, run La Tavernetta Vittozzi, a Neapolitan gem tucked away from the bustling main streets. Their expressions, a mix of gentle scolding and amusement at my sometimes basic questions, always precede patient and enlightening explanations that cut through my culinary misunderstandings.
My repeated visits to La Tavernetta Vittozzi, their unpretentious family restaurant in Naples, have become a cornerstone of my Italian culinary education. It’s the kind of authentic eatery where locals are regulars, the daily specials are proudly displayed, and the menus are fresh, handwritten pages. Each visit is fueled by my desire to unravel the secrets of genuine Italian cooking. “How do you achieve meatball perfection?” “What’s the secret to your caramelized onions in pasta Genovese?” “Tell me about real Italian wedding soup, and why is it so much better than the Italian-American versions?” And, of course, “Your grandmother’s lasagna is divine! Teach me!” These questions, while heartfelt, are often met with that look.
Milk Street has dedicated the last decade to exploring global cuisines, venturing into roughly 30 countries in pursuit of brighter, bolder, and more delicious ways to cook. Yet, Italy consistently draws me back. The allure is undeniable – the food, the atmosphere, and, naturally, the wine. However, the most compelling reason is the people. I’ve been privileged to cook in kitchens worldwide, but in Italy, there’s a unique sense of homecoming, all thanks to the warmth of its people.
The Vittozzi sisters, Rosa, Anna, Veronica, Enza, and Elena, demonstrate their culinary expertise at their family restaurant in Naples, Italy.
The Vittozzi sisters epitomize this Italian hospitality. One of the first recipes they graciously shared was for Neapolitan Meatballs with Ragù. These aren’t just meatballs; they are incredibly tender and light yet profoundly flavorful spheres of beef. I vividly remember Rosa’s nimble hands shaping the meatballs with astonishing speed while Enza serenaded us with opera, a truly Neapolitan cooking lesson.
Another memorable encounter in Naples, this time on the opposite side of the city, led me to Maria Notaro. This remarkable octogenarian runs La Cantinetta with her son, a unique establishment that’s part convenience store, part enoteca, and part eatery. Stepping into La Cantinetta is like stepping back in time; it has retained its charm since Maria took over 60 years ago. And remarkably, it serves some of the most exquisite food in Naples. Locals pop in for a quick glass of house white wine dispensed from spigots near the register, and construction workers crowd the ten tables for a fast lunch of perfectly crisp fried anchovies. La Cantinetta, hidden away from the city center, offers a taste of authentic Naples.
Maria unveiled to me a nearly forgotten Neapolitan recipe: zuppa forte. This old-world dish features meats slow-cooked with garlic, tomatoes, and preserved chilies, resulting in an intensely rich and concentrated pasta sauce unlike any I’ve ever experienced. Sharing stories of the “old days” while we savored every last bit with crusty bread, Maria reminded me again – it’s the people that make Italian food so special.
Venturing north of Rome to Pretoro, a medieval village nestled in the Abruzzo hills, I met Giovanni Iezzi. Giovanni, a former furniture maker, now dedicates his craft to creating wooden chitarra, traditional pasta-making tools resembling stringed shoeboxes. These tools cut fresh pasta sheets into unique, rough-edged strands. Why are these strands special? They are the key to the original spaghetti and meatballs, a dish often dismissed as not authentically Italian. Yet, in Italy, it is cherished and truly exceptional. Giovanni even crafted a chitarra for me on the spot, a mesmerizing 45-minute process involving beechwood, bolts, brass nails, and fine wire. Time and again, my experiences in Italy underscore the same truth: it’s the people.
This deep appreciation for the individuals behind Italian cuisine is why we’ve created something truly special: Milk Street Backroads Italy: Finding Italy’s Forgotten Recipes, a Milk Street Cookbook unlike any other we’ve produced. Yes, it’s filled with incredible recipes – from Polenta and Pesto to Pasta. But more importantly, it’s brimming with stories and photographs of the people who shared these recipes, like the Vittozzi sisters, Maria Notaro, and Giovanni Iezzi. This milk street cookbook, Milk Street Backroads Italy, is a heartfelt tribute to the people of Italy.
Christopher Kimball shares a moment with local Italian cooks, highlighting the personal connections featured in the Milk Street Backroads Italy cookbook.
For the first time, we’ve woven together the essence of delicious Italian food with the personal narratives of those who create it. Milk Street Backroads Italy: Finding Italy’s Forgotten Recipes is an invitation to explore Italy from your own kitchen, to connect with the cooks, and understand the traditions that make Italian food so beloved. This milk street cookbook is more than just a collection of recipes; it’s a cultural journey.
The book, a true labor of love and culinary exploration, is available for pre-order now and officially releases on April 15th. In my opinion, Milk Street Backroads Italy is my favorite milk street cookbook to date. It transcends typical cookbooks by offering a chance to learn authentic Italian cooking and to meet the faces, hear the stories, and witness the passion of the people who keep these culinary traditions alive. Italy is evolving, and this book is our effort to capture the enduring magic of its food culture before it changes forever.
Tonight, I won’t be making a cocktail, but I will raise a glass of Italian wine to the Vittozzi sisters and all the Italian cooks who have enriched our culinary understanding over the years. Pre-order your copy of Milk Street Backroads Italy: Finding Italy’s Forgotten Recipes today and embark on your own Italian culinary adventure!
