Princes Street in Edinburgh, Scotland, is more than just a street; it’s a vibrant artery pulsing with history, culture, and stunning views. This iconic thoroughfare, a must-visit for any trip to Edinburgh, offers a unique blend of shopping, gardens, and architectural marvels, all set against the dramatic backdrop of Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town skyline. From its historical roots as the site of the Nor Loch to its present-day status as a bustling commercial and cultural hub, Princes Street encapsulates the spirit of Scotland’s capital.
From Foul Waters to Flourishing Gardens: The Story of Princes Street Gardens
The story of Princes Street is inextricably linked to Princes Street Gardens, the verdant expanse that runs alongside it. But this picturesque landscape has a rather unsavory past. Originally, this area was occupied by the Nor Loch, a body of water that served as both a defense and a drain for the Old Town’s sewage for centuries. By the 18th century, the Nor Loch had become heavily polluted, posing a significant health hazard.
West Princes Street Gardens in Edinburgh, offering a peaceful green space amidst the city bustle, showcasing the natural beauty and landscaping of the gardens.
In 1759, a major drainage project began to transform the Nor Loch. A canal was constructed to divert the water towards Lochend, near Calton Hill. The draining paved the way for the creation of what would become Princes Street Gardens. In the 1840s, another significant transformation occurred with the arrival of the railway. The valley was chosen as the route for the tracks, and Waverley Station, initially named Canal Street Station, began to take shape, officially opening in its current form in 1854. This integration of nature, commerce, and transportation defines the unique character of Princes Street.
East Princes Street Gardens in Edinburgh, highlighting the garden’s layout and greenery, with views towards the city skyline, inviting visitors to relax and enjoy the scenery.
Historical painting of the Nor Loch and Edinburgh Castle by Alexander Naysmith, depicting the area before the creation of Princes Street Gardens, illustrating the dramatic transformation of the landscape.
Vintage image of Canal Street Station in Edinburgh, the former name of Waverley Station, showing early railway infrastructure and the station’s historical significance.
Register House: Guardians of Scotland’s Records on Princes Street
At the eastern end of Princes Street, where it meets North Bridge, stands Register House, a stately building with a vital national function. Built on Multrees Hill and opened in the 1790s, Register House was designed to safeguard Scotland’s national records. The need for more space led to the construction of New Register House, completed in 1858 on the west side in West Register Street.
Exterior view of Register House on Princes Street, Edinburgh, showcasing its neoclassical architecture and historical importance as a repository for national records.
Today, these buildings continue to house crucial registries, including births, deaths, and marriages. Interestingly, Register House is also home to the Tartan registry, preserving the heritage of Scottish clans and families.
New Register House on West Register Street in Edinburgh, an extension of the original Register House, providing additional space for Scotland’s expanding national archives.
Historical image of Register House and the Crown Hotel on Princes Street, Edinburgh, capturing the architectural landscape and urban development of the area over time.
The Duke of Wellington Statue: A Princely Tribute on Princes Street
Standing proudly outside Register House is the imposing statue of the Duke of Wellington. Erected in 1852, this monument commemorates Arthur Wellesley, the 1st Duke of Wellington, and his pivotal victory at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Waterloo Place, which leads towards Calton Hill, also takes its name from this decisive battle. The statue depicts Wellington astride his horse, Copenhagen, a detail that adds to the historical richness of this Princes Street landmark.
Close-up of the Wellington Monument on Princes Street, Edinburgh, focusing on the statue of the Duke of Wellington and his horse Copenhagen, highlighting the detail and artistry of the sculpture.
Ritchie’s Clock: Timekeeping Tradition on Edinburgh Circle
Adjacent to the Wellington Statue, on its west side, is Ritchie’s Clock. This clock is a surviving piece of the “Edinburgh Circle,” a network of electric clocks established by Frederick James Ritchie. Ritchie’s vision was to provide accurate time to the citizens of Edinburgh, a testament to the city’s forward-thinking spirit in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Ritchie Clock on Princes Street, Edinburgh, showcasing its classic design and historical significance as part of the Edinburgh Circle of public clocks for accurate timekeeping.
Jenners: A Department Store Pioneer on Princes Street
Princes Street is also known for its retail history, and Jenners department store stands as a prime example. Founded in 1838 by Charles Jenner and Charles Kennington, two drapers, at 47 Princes Street, Jenners quickly gained renown for its high-quality goods. Its popularity led to expansion, eventually encompassing multiple premises on Princes Street and South St David Street, becoming the largest department store in the UK at the time.
Jenners Department Store on Princes Street, Edinburgh, featuring its grand facade and historical importance as one of the world’s first department stores and a Royal Warrant holder.
After a fire destroyed the original building, it was rebuilt in 1895 by the same architect who designed the Balmoral Hotel. Jenners thrived as an independent store until 2005 when it was acquired by House of Fraser. Its legacy as a retail institution was further cemented when it received a Royal Warrant in 1911, reflecting its popularity with the British Royal Family.
The Forsyth Armillary Sphere: Steel Innovation and Zodiacal Beauty
Another architectural highlight of Princes Street is the Forsyth building, notable for being the first steel-framed building in Scotland, constructed in 1906. This corner building is crowned by the Forsyth Armillary Sphere, a striking feature adorned with the signs of the zodiac and held aloft by three gilt cherub figures. This unique combination of architectural innovation and artistic detail makes it a memorable landmark on the Edinburgh skyline.
The Forsyth Armillary Sphere on Princes Street, Edinburgh, emphasizing its astronomical design and gilt cherub figures, highlighting it as an iconic landmark.
Signage indicating the Forsyth Building as the first steel-constructed building in Scotland, underlining its architectural significance and pioneering construction methods.
The Balmoral Hotel: A Grand Railway Hotel on Princes Street
Dominating the eastern end of Princes Street is The Balmoral Hotel, originally known as the North British Station Hotel. Opened in 1902, this grand hotel is strategically located next to Waverley Station, providing direct access to the Old Town, the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, and Holyrood Palace. Calton Hill rises immediately behind the hotel, adding to its dramatic setting.
The Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street, Edinburgh, showcasing its impressive architecture and prime location at the east end of the street, highlighting its status as a luxury hotel and landmark.
The Balmoral’s clock is famously set five minutes fast, a tradition intended to encourage punctuality among rail travelers. The hotel occupies a site with a long history of hospitality, having been home to earlier hotels, including The Crown (1811), the Royal Eagle, and the Prince Regent, before the construction of the current iconic building.
Royal Scottish Academy of Art: Nurturing Scottish Artistic Talent
Located on The Mound, which connects the Old and New Towns, the Royal Scottish Academy of Art has an entrance on Princes Street. As Scotland’s oldest and most prestigious academy of contemporary art, it plays a vital role in promoting Scottish artists. The Academy actively supports emerging artists from Scotland’s art colleges and champions established living artists, contributing significantly to the nation’s cultural landscape.
The Royal Scottish Academy of Art entrance on Princes Street, Edinburgh, emphasizing its architectural elegance and role in promoting Scottish art and artists.
Waverley Station and Waverley Mall: A Hub Below Street Level
Waverley Station, Edinburgh’s main railway hub, has one of its four entrances directly on Princes Street. Built in 1854, the station is ingeniously located below street level in the valley of Princes Street Gardens. From Waverley, travelers can access destinations across Scotland and beyond, including a direct line to London with a journey time of just over four hours. The station connects Edinburgh to the Highlands, Glasgow, the Scottish Borders, and all points north and south. Above the station, Waverley Mall provides a modern shopping experience in the heart of the city.
Waverley Station entrance on Calton Road in Edinburgh, showing one of the access points to the station, indicating its connectivity to different parts of the city.
Princes Street entrance to Edinburgh Waverley Rail Station, highlighting the station’s accessibility from the main street and its integration into the urban landscape.
Market Street entrance to Edinburgh Waverley Station, demonstrating another access point and the station’s extensive network of entrances across different city areas.
St. John’s Church Graveyard: Resting Place of Notable Figures
St. John’s Church, located at the west end of Princes Street, holds a peaceful graveyard that is the final resting place of several notable figures.
Dean Ramsay Memorial Cross in St John’s Church graveyard, Princes Street, Edinburgh, commemorating a clergyman and significant local figure.
Dean Ramsay: Dean Ramsay, a clergyman at St John’s for 45 years, is commemorated by a Celtic Cross at the east end of the church, near the entrance to Princes Street Gardens.
St John’s Church in Edinburgh, situated at the west end of Princes Street, highlighting its architectural style and serene graveyard with historical memorials.
Anne Rutherford: Anne Rutherford (1733-1819), mother of the renowned author Sir Walter Scott, is buried on the east side of St John’s Church. Her father was John Rutherford, and her mother was Jean Swinton of the prominent Swinton family. Although Anne had nine children, only three survived infancy. Through her mother-in-law, a Halliburton, the Scott family gained the hereditary right to be buried in Dryburgh Abbey, where Sir Walter Scott is also interred.
Headstone of Anne Rutherford in St John’s Church graveyard, Princes Street, Edinburgh, marking the grave of Sir Walter Scott’s mother and her family connection to Scottish history.
Grave of Anne Rutherford in St John’s Church graveyard, Princes Street, Edinburgh, a simple memorial to the mother of a literary giant and her place in Scottish heritage.
Sir Henry Raeburn: Sir Henry Raeburn (1756-1823), Scotland’s most celebrated portrait painter, is also memorialized in St John’s Church. Born in Edinburgh, Raeburn lived in the Stockbridge area and had his studio, Raeburn House, in York Place. Knighted in 1822 and appointed portrait painter to King George IV, his works are prominently displayed in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. A statue of Raeburn stands outside the gallery, and a memorial stone is located in St John’s Church, near Anne Rutherford’s grave.
Headstone of Sir Henry Raeburn in St John’s Church graveyard, Princes Street, Edinburgh, commemorating Scotland’s foremost portrait painter and his contributions to art.
George Burnett: George Burnett (1822-1890), Lord Lyon King of Arms, is another notable figure buried in St John’s graveyard. Born into the Kemnay family of Inverurie, Burnett became a lawyer in 1845 and Lord Lyon King of Arms in 1866, a position he held until his death. As Lord Lyon, he was responsible for regulating heraldry in Scotland, a significant role within the Scottish state.
Memorial to Lord Lyon King of Arms George Burnett in St John’s Church graveyard, Princes Street, Edinburgh, honoring his role in Scottish heraldry and public service.
Grave marker of George Burnett, Lord Lyon King of Arms, in St John’s Church graveyard, Princes Street, Edinburgh, a tribute to a key figure in Scottish legal and heraldic history.
Johnnie Walker Visitor Centre Clock: A Whimsical Timepiece
At the west end of Princes Street, near Hope Street, stood a distinctive clock erected in 1962 for Binns department store, later associated with the Johnnie Walker Visitor Centre. Every two hours, miniature pipers would emerge and circle the clock’s base, playing “Scotland the Brave,” a delightful and quintessentially Scottish spectacle. Binns, originally founded as a drapery in Sunderland in 1811, had established a department store at this location in 1935.
Binns Clock at the west end of Princes Street in Edinburgh, known for its animated pipers and historical association with the department store and later the Johnnie Walker Visitor Centre, showcasing a unique city timepiece.
John Menzies: Newsagent Pioneer on Princes Street
John Menzies, a prominent name in Scottish retail, began his Edinburgh business journey at 61 Princes Street in 1833. Moving from London at the age of 25, Menzies opened a bookshop that soon evolved into a news agency. He made history by being the first to sell The Scotsman newspaper over the counter, contributing to the growth of both his business and Scotland’s oldest national newspaper. John Menzies’ company has since diversified and evolved into Menzies Aviation, a successful global aviation services business, demonstrating the lasting legacy of a Princes Street entrepreneur.
Princes Street, Edinburgh, is a testament to the city’s rich history and vibrant present. From its gardens born from a polluted loch to its grand hotels, iconic department stores, and monuments to national heroes, Princes Street offers an unforgettable experience for every visitor. Exploring this thoroughfare is like taking a walk through time, with each landmark telling a story of Edinburgh’s evolution and enduring appeal.
