Princes Street in Edinburgh is more than just a shopping destination; it’s a vibrant thoroughfare steeped in history, culture, and stunning architecture. From its origins as a grand plan of the New Town to its current status as a bustling hub, Princes Street has witnessed centuries of Edinburgh’s evolution. This iconic street offers a unique blend of gardens, monuments, and landmark buildings, each with a story to tell, making it an essential destination for anyone visiting Scotland’s capital.
The Transformation of Nor Loch into Princes Street Gardens
The story of Princes Street begins with the dramatic transformation of the Nor Loch. Once a body of water located to the north of Edinburgh’s Old Town, the Nor Loch served as both a defense and a drain, unfortunately becoming heavily polluted over centuries with sewage runoff. By the mid-18th century, the need to address this unsanitary situation became pressing.
The ambitious project to drain the Nor Loch commenced in 1759. Engineers created a canal that diverted the water towards Lochend, situated behind Calton Hill. This drainage paved the way for the creation of what we now know as Princes Street Gardens. By the 1820s, these gardens were taking shape, providing a picturesque green space separating the Old and New Towns. The arrival of the railway in the 1840s further shaped the landscape, with Waverley Station, initially named Canal Street Station, opening in 1854 in the valley where Waverley Market now stands. This development integrated transportation directly into the heart of Princes Street’s evolving scene.
Register House: Archiving Scotland’s History on Princes Street
Located at the eastern end of Princes Street, where it meets North Bridge, stands Register House. This impressive building, constructed on what was then known as Multrees Hill, opened its doors in the 1790s. Its purpose was, and remains, to serve as the primary repository for Scotland’s national archives. The need for expanded storage led to the construction of New Register House on the western side, along West Register Street, completed in 1858.
Today, Register House is not only a vital historical archive, holding records of births, deaths, and marriages, but also the home of the Scottish Tartans Authority, preserving the heritage of tartan patterns. Its imposing presence adds to the architectural grandeur of Princes Street, linking the street to Scotland’s rich documentary history.
The Duke of Wellington Statue and Ritchie Clock: Monuments of Princes Street
Directly in front of Register House stands a prominent statue of the Duke of Wellington, erected in 1852. This monument commemorates the Duke’s victory at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Waterloo Place, the road leading towards Calton Hill, is also named in honor of this significant battle, underscoring the area’s historical associations with the Napoleonic Wars. The statue depicts the Duke astride his horse, Copenhagen, a detail often appreciated by equestrian enthusiasts and history buffs alike.
Adjacent to the Wellington statue, on its west side, is the Ritchie Clock. This clock was part of the “Edinburgh Circle,” a network of electric clocks installed throughout the city by Frederick James Ritchie. Ritchie’s initiative aimed to provide accurate time to the citizens of Edinburgh, reflecting the Victorian era’s growing emphasis on precision and public services.
Jenners: A Department Store Pioneer on Princes Street
Jenners, often hailed as one of the world’s first department stores, holds a special place in the history of Princes Street. Founded in 1838 by Charles Jenner and Charles Kennington, two drapers seeking new opportunities, the store began at 47 Princes Street. Jenners quickly gained renown for its high-quality goods and expanded to occupy multiple premises on Princes Street and South St David Street, eventually becoming the largest department store in the United Kingdom.
After a fire destroyed the original building, Jenners was rebuilt in 1895, designed by the same architect who created the iconic Balmoral Hotel. Jenners thrived as an independent store until it was acquired by the House of Fraser group in 2005. Its long-standing reputation for quality and service was recognized with a Royal Warrant in 1911, reflecting its popularity with the British Royal Family.
The Forsyth Armillary Sphere: An Architectural Landmark
Another distinctive feature of Princes Street’s architecture is the building adorned with the Forsyth Armillary Sphere. This corner building, dating back to 1906, is significant as the first steel-framed building in Scotland. The Forsyth’s store, located here, incorporated a striking armillary sphere into its design.
The armillary sphere itself is a captivating feature, displaying the signs of the zodiac around its center and supported by three gilded cherub figures. This architectural detail has become an enduring symbol on the Edinburgh skyline, representing both innovation in construction and artistic flair on Princes Street.
The Balmoral Hotel: A Grand Railway Hotel
Dominating the eastern end of Princes Street is The Balmoral Hotel, originally known as the North British Station Hotel. Opened in 1902, its prime location next to Waverley Station and between Waverley Bridge and North Bridge provided direct access to Edinburgh’s Old Town and key attractions like the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, and Holyrood Palace. Calton Hill rises immediately behind the hotel, adding to its dramatic backdrop.
Historically, The Balmoral’s clock has been famously set five minutes fast, a tradition intended to encourage punctuality among rail travelers. The site itself has a long history of hospitality, having been home to Edinburgh’s first hotel, The Crown, in 1811, which later became the Royal Eagle and Prince Regent before being demolished to make way for the current grand hotel.
Royal Scottish Academy of Art: Nurturing Scottish Art
The Royal Scottish Academy of Art, located on The Mound near Princes Street, is Scotland’s oldest and most prestigious academy dedicated to contemporary art. Established to promote and support Scottish artists, the Academy plays a crucial role in showcasing emerging talent from Scotland’s art colleges and architecture schools, as well as championing established living artists.
With its prominent entrance facing Princes Street, the Royal Scottish Academy adds a cultural dimension to the streetscape, inviting visitors to explore and appreciate Scottish artistic heritage.
Waverley Station: Edinburgh’s Rail Gateway
Waverley Station, Edinburgh’s main railway hub, has multiple entrances, with one conveniently located on Princes Street. Built in 1854, the station is situated below street level, nestled in the valley that was once the Nor Loch. From Waverley, travelers can access destinations across Scotland and beyond, including direct routes to London with journey times of just over four hours.
Waverley’s central location on Princes Street makes it easily accessible for visitors and commuters alike, reinforcing Princes Street’s role as a central artery of Edinburgh.
Memorials in St John’s Churchyard: Honoring Edinburgh’s Figures
Located at the west end of Princes Street, St John’s Episcopal Church and its churchyard hold memorials to several notable figures from Edinburgh’s past. Dean Ramsay, a clergyman at St John’s for 45 years, is commemorated with a Celtic Cross near the Princes Street Gardens entrance to the churchyard.
Anne Rutherford, mother of the renowned Scottish novelist Sir Walter Scott, is also buried in St John’s churchyard. Her gravestone, along with that of her parents, can be found on the east side of the church. The connection to Sir Walter Scott adds literary significance to this peaceful corner of Princes Street.
Sir Henry Raeburn, Scotland’s celebrated portrait painter, has a memorial stone within St John’s Church, close to Anne Rutherford’s grave. Raeburn, who lived and worked in Edinburgh, was a prominent figure in Scottish art history.
George Burnett, Lord Lyon King of Arms, the Scottish official responsible for heraldry, is also buried in St John’s graveyard. His grave marker is a testament to his role in Scottish public life and heritage.
Johnnie Walker and John Menzies: Retail History on Princes Street
At the west end of Princes Street, near Hope Street, stood a notable clock erected in 1962 for Binns department store, later associated with Johnnie Walker. This clock, a local landmark, featured miniature pipers that would emerge and play “Scotland the Brave” twice hourly, adding a touch of Scottish charm to the street. The building itself originally housed Binns, a department store chain founded in Sunderland in 1811, before becoming a Johnnie Walker visitor center.
Further along Princes Street, at number 61, was the location of John Menzies’ first bookshop, opened in 1833. John Menzies, who moved from London to Edinburgh, quickly transformed his shop into a newsagent, pioneering the over-the-counter sale of The Scotsman newspaper. The John Menzies business has evolved significantly over time and is now known as Menzies Aviation, demonstrating the enduring legacy of businesses that began on Princes Street.
Princes Street: A Street of Stories
Princes Street Edinburgh is a captivating blend of historical significance and modern vibrancy. From the gardens born from a drained loch to the grand architecture of Register House and The Balmoral, and the retail history of Jenners and John Menzies, every corner of Princes Street tells a story. Exploring Princes Street is not just a walk through a city street; it’s a journey through Edinburgh’s rich past and dynamic present.
