In the heart of South Los Angeles, a delicious aroma wafts from a neighborhood landmark: the 27th Street Bakery. This isn’t just any bakery; it’s a third-generation family business, deeply rooted in history and renowned for its irresistible sweet potato pie. For decades, the 27th Street Bakery has been more than just a place to buy baked goods; it’s been a community hub, a testament to family tradition, and a symbol of Black entrepreneurship in Los Angeles.
The story of 27th Street Bakery began in 1956 when Harry and Sadie Patterson, seasoned restauranteurs with twenty years of experience, decided to diversify their culinary ventures. They transformed a section of their restaurant, located at 2700 South Central Avenue, into a specialty pie shop christened Mrs. Harry’s Pies and Cakes. This marked the birth of what would become the beloved 27th Street Bakery, a cornerstone of the neighborhood and a business now passionately managed by its third generation, committed to its continued growth and legacy.
To truly appreciate the significance of 27th Street Bakery, one must understand the historical context of its location. In the 1930s, Central Avenue was the vibrant epicenter of African American life in Los Angeles. Discriminatory housing practices confined Black families to specific areas, while the booming defense industry jobs during World War II spurred a significant influx of African Americans from the South. The Pattersons, who hailed from Shreveport, Louisiana, arrived in this dynamic neighborhood brimming with cherished family recipes. These recipes, particularly their sweet potato pie, resonated deeply with other Southern transplants seeking a taste of home.
Their sweet potato pie recipe was more than just a dessert; it was a family heirloom. While it incorporated traditional ingredients like milk, eggs, and butter, the secret to its exceptional flavor lay in a unique blend of spices. This commitment to quality and consistency, instilled by their grandfather, remains a guiding principle for the family. For instance, despite the prevalence of sweet potatoes from Northern California in local markets, 27th Street Bakery insists on using only Louisiana-grown sweet potatoes, a testament to their dedication to authentic flavor and heritage. These unwavering baking traditions are the bedrock of their enduring success.
When the Pattersons retired in the 1980s, the mantle of the bakery was passed to their daughter, Alberta Craven, and grandson, Gregory Spann. They rebranded the business as 27th Street Bakery, named after its iconic Central Avenue location. This mother-and-son duo continued to honor the family’s treasured recipes and baking methods while strategically expanding into the wholesale market, demonstrating their ability to blend tradition with innovation.
Today, the third generation of Pattersons – Denise, Jeanette, and Albert – are at the helm of 27th Street Bakery, each playing a crucial role in its operation. Denise Craven-Perchaul oversees the retail front, ensuring the bakery’s warm and welcoming atmosphere for individual customers. Jeanette Bolden-Pickens manages the wholesale operations, extending the reach of their delicious pies and baked goods. Albert Pickens, Jeanette’s husband, handles the essential task of supplies and equipment management. Jeanette Bolden-Pickens emphasizes the collective nature of the business, stating that the 27th Street Bakery is a family affair, with everyone contributing their talents to ensure its smooth operation and continued success.
The bakery’s menu itself is a living testament to the family’s history. Gregory’s Old-Fashioned Pecan Pie, a customer favorite, is named in honor of Jeanette’s late brother and was created by her brother-in-law. Similarly, the Alberta pie pays homage to her mother. Looking to the future, the family is confident that the legacy of 27th Street Bakery will extend to a fourth generation. Many young family members can be found helping out after school, mirroring Jeanette’s own early involvement, and others pitch in during the bustling holiday seasons, ensuring the family spirit remains strong.
For the Patterson descendants and their long-term employees, 27th Street Bakery is more than just a workplace; it’s a source of stability, purpose, and pride. For Jeanette Bolden-Pickens, the family business represents a fulfilling third career chapter. A Gold Medal winner in the Women’s 4 x 400-meter Relay at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, Jeanette attributes her strong work ethic to her family’s entrepreneurial drive. Overcoming childhood asthma, she was instilled with a belief in limitless potential by her mother, aunt, and grandparents. After retiring from her illustrious athletic career, including coaching UCLA’s Women’s track team for nearly two decades and serving as the U.S. Women’s Head Coach for the 2008 Beijing Olympics, Jeanette returned to her family’s bakery when illness struck, demonstrating her unwavering commitment to its continuation. Her remarkable story was captured in a 2018 interview by UCLA’s Center for Oral History Research, offering a deeper insight into the woman behind the 27th Street Bakery legacy.
Despite the challenges posed by the recent global events, 27th Street Bakery remains focused on growth and adaptation. A $10,000 small business grant from PayPal’s Empowerment Grants for Black Businesses Program has provided a significant boost, earmarked for upgrading kitchen equipment. Jeanette Bolden-Pickens is also actively pursuing government wholesale licensing to expand their market reach. Excitingly, they have recently introduced tea cakes to their menu, a delightful hybrid of cookie and biscuit that has quickly become a customer favorite. The family is also exploring new product development, leveraging their signature sweet potato mix recipe to create even more delectable treats for their loyal customers.
The enduring contributions of 27th Street Bakery to the community have not gone unnoticed. In 2018, Councilmember Curren Price of the Ninth District honored the bakery with a square dedication along historic Central Avenue, solidifying its place as a cherished landmark. For a glimpse into the heart of the bakery, a CBS LA feature, Landmark South L.A. Bakery Working Around The Clock to Meet Sweet Demand, showcases their remarkable 60+ year old oven, still working tirelessly to meet the ongoing demand for their beloved baked goods. 27th Street Bakery is a true testament to the power of family, tradition, and delicious sweet potato pie in the heart of Los Angeles.
