Embarking on a journey to Southeast Asia is often synonymous with diving headfirst into a vibrant and diverse culinary scene. During my recent two-week exploration of Cambodia, Vietnam, and Hong Kong, I was particularly captivated by the street food culture, especially in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Having previously savored the street food offerings of Japan, Singapore, and Malaysia, I arrived with high expectations, and Cambodia did not disappoint. In fact, I found myself consistently favoring the authentic flavors of the street over more conventional restaurant and hotel fare.
My sister, anticipating our group’s adventurous palates, had pre-booked a street food tour in Siem Reap, a decision inspired by a recommendation in The New York Times. This proved to be an excellent introduction to Cambodian cuisine and the bustling energy of Siem Reap’s food scene.
Tuk tuks, a common mode of transport, navigate the bustling streets of Siem Reap, Cambodia, showcasing the vibrant street life.
Our guide, Steven Halcrow, a personable Scotsman with an evident passion for food, met us at our hotel. We hopped into a tuk tuk arranged by Steven, and as we navigated the lively streets of downtown Siem Reap, he shared his fascinating story. A former chef with experience in Michelin Star restaurants, Steven had ventured to Siem Reap to open his own eatery, only to face the unfortunate setback of the pandemic which led to its closure. His enthusiasm for Cambodian food and culture was infectious, and our tuk tuk ride quickly transformed into an engaging conversation about expat life in Cambodia and the local culinary landscape.
The sights and sounds of Siem Reap were immediately captivating. The streets pulsed with life, a constant flow of tuk tuks, scooters carrying entire families, and bicycles weaving through the crowds. Food carts lined the sidewalks, adding to the vibrant tapestry of the city. The air carried a unique aroma, a mix of cooking spices and a hint of burning vegetation, creating an atmosphere that was both exotic and comforting. This sensory immersion was reminiscent of my first arrival in Tokyo in 1987, a feeling of being utterly transported to a new and exciting world. Vendors displayed fresh produce on blankets, locals went about their daily routines, and the energy of the city was palpable.
Steven, keen to offer us an authentic experience, steered us away from the typical tourist traps and towards local eateries in the city’s outskirts. Our first stop was Vika Food, a restaurant specializing in pork dishes. As our tuk tuk pulled up, the sight of homemade charcoal grills dominated the scene, adorned with roasted pig faces that resembled flattened masks. Steven explained that pig faces are considered a delicacy, offering a diverse range of textures and flavors, from fatty and crisp to chewy and bony. While the pig faces were visually striking, Steven revealed that our culinary focus for the evening would be the equally enticing grilled pork belly.
We were led to an open-air dining area furnished with red plastic chairs and wooden tables adjacent to the sizzling grills. Buckets of beer and bottled water, accompanied by ice-filled buckets, were promptly brought to our table. Steven pointed out the cylindrical ice cubes with a hole in the center, assuring us of their safety for consumption, differentiating them from other ice used solely for cooling. He also humorously apologized for the “warm” beer, explaining that this was the customary serving style at Cambodian Street Food establishments. Shortly after, a generous platter of succulent grilled pork belly arrived, accompanied by an array of dipping sauces. Among these sauces was one that contained a surprising ingredient: a generous helping of chopped red ants.
Cambodian red ant sauce, a unique and flavorful dipping sauce made with crushed peanuts, offering a citrusy taste from formic acid, a highlight of Cambodian street food.
The red ant sauce, with its crushed peanuts and the distinct citrusy tang from formic acid, initially presented a moment of culinary hesitation. However, any apprehension quickly dissolved as we tasted it. The unique flavor profile was not only delicious but also unexpectedly refreshing, and it soon became the unanimous favorite dipping sauce among our group, perfectly complementing the rich and savory grilled pork belly. This adventurous introduction to Cambodian street food was a resounding success, setting the stage for further culinary explorations in this fascinating country.
