Dhamaka, rapidly establishing itself as a premier Indian culinary destination in New York City, offers a dining experience that transcends the typical Manhattan restaurant scene. Located on Delancey Street, this vibrant spot, distinct from ventures like Priyanka Chopra Jonas’s Sona, is celebrated for its bold flavors and commitment to showcasing India’s diverse regional cuisines. A standout feature, and a testament to their adventurous spirit, is their offering of gurda kapoora, a dish featuring goat kidneys and testicles, prepared with a rich blend of chiles. While many contemporary restaurants may shy away from such unique ingredients, Dhamaka embraces the full spectrum of Indian culinary traditions, including the often-overlooked world of soft tissue offal. This willingness to explore beyond the familiar is what sets Dhamaka apart and makes it a must-visit for adventurous diners seeking an authentic taste of India on Delancey Street in New York City.
Roni Mazumdar and chef-owner Chintan Pandya, the visionaries behind Dhamaka, have a proven track record of culinary excellence. Known for Adda, their acclaimed Long Island City restaurant, where they serve a remarkable bheja fry – goat brains in a luscious tomato sauce – they bring their passion for authentic Indian flavors to the Lower East Side. At Dhamaka, situated in the bustling Essex Crossing market, they present their kapoora, a cherished Ramadan delicacy also known as taka tak in Lahore, Pakistan. Available in limited portions each evening, Pandya skillfully prepares the organs with red chile, turmeric, and ginger garlic paste, served in the very metal bowl used for cooking, enhancing the rustic and authentic presentation.
The gurda kapoora at Dhamaka on Delancey Street is an exploration in texture and flavor. The kidneys offer a delightful firm texture, releasing a subtly sweet and grassy taste, with a hint of muskiness akin to goat butter. The testicles, in contrast, are softly bouncy, reminiscent of a peeled grape. A truly immersive way to enjoy this dish is to create a unique “sloppy joe” by layering the flavorful organs between slices of soft pao bread. This combination allows for a satisfying, hand-held experience, punctuated by bursts of heat from scattered green chiles that awaken the palate. Despite the outdoor dining ambiance, which may sometimes be less than ideal, the exceptional food at Dhamaka makes it a worthwhile culinary adventure in New York City.
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When considering the future leaders of New York City’s dynamic culinary landscape, Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya undoubtedly stand out. Their collective work has culminated in what is arguably New York’s most diverse and captivating collection of Indian dining experiences. Their initial venture, Rahi, located in Greenwich Village, showcases a more inventive approach to Indian cuisine, featuring dishes like dry-aged lamb burgers and masala fried-chicken sandwiches, drawing inspiration from the global Indian culinary perspective championed by the late Floyd Cardoz. Following the success of Rahi, Adda in Queens quickly gained popularity, becoming known for its tandoor-cooked meats and comforting, homestyle curries, often drawing significant crowds even before the pandemic.
Dhamaka, their latest venture on Delancey Street in New York City, distinguishes itself through its explicit and admirable dedication to the “forgotten side of India,” as stated on their website. This focus translates to a menu brimming with regional dishes rarely encountered in New York’s South Asian dining scene. Unlike their other restaurants, Dhamaka intentionally steers clear of familiar favorites like butter chicken or saag paneer. Instead, diners are presented with unique dishes such as tabak maaz, a traditional Kashmiri specialty typically made with simmered and fried lamb ribs. At Dhamaka, chef de cuisine Eric Valdez prepares it by slow-poaching the lamb, then grilling it to achieve a delicate, shreddable texture. Each bite offers a variety of sensations, from pleasantly stringy pieces to melt-in-your-mouth fats, all seasoned with a fragrant blend of fennel and cumin. Interestingly, despite Dhamaka’s reputation for bold flavors, tabak maaz is one of the milder dishes on the menu, sharing this distinction with the paplet fish fry. This dish features a small pomfret, crisped in semolina flour, reminiscent of coastal Maharashtrian cuisine. Diners are encouraged to use their fingers to savor the delicate flesh, being mindful of the small bones, and to dip it generously in a vibrant mint-cilantro chutney, so aromatic it carries a subtle hint of unripe bananas. Dhamaka on Delancey Street truly offers a unique and explorative Indian dining experience in New York City.
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Dining at Dhamaka is exclusively an on-site experience, offered both indoors and within an outdoor tented area. While the tent provides additional seating, ventilation can sometimes be a concern, particularly on warmer days. Notably, Dhamaka stands out as a pandemic-era restaurant that opted against offering takeout, marking it as the first dine-in-only establishment reviewed since March of the previous year. This decision underscores their commitment to the quality and presentation of their dishes.
When questioned about their dine-in-only policy at Dhamaka on Delancey Street, the owners emphasized their desire to maintain the integrity of their culinary creations. They believe that the unique flavors and textures of their regional Indian cuisine might not translate well to delivery. While this argument could be made for many restaurant dishes, there’s a particular validity when considering the nuanced preparations at Dhamaka. The owners understandably wish for patrons’ first encounter with Dhamaka’s cuisine to be within the restaurant’s intended setting, rather than from a takeout container. The journey home, especially via subway, could indeed compromise the delicate nature of some dishes, potentially diminishing the likelihood of a return visit for a more comprehensive dine-in experience.
Beyond food quality, there’s a strategic element to Dhamaka’s dine-in approach. As a South Asian restaurant aiming to establish itself as a premier dining destination, Dhamaka is consciously working to shift perceptions often associated with Indian cuisine in New York. Despite a history of fine Indian dining, tasting menus, and Michelin recognition, Indian food can sometimes be stereotyped as inexpensive takeout or buffet fare. Dhamaka’s deliberate choice to forgo takeout directly challenges this perception, reinforcing its position as a distinguished sit-down restaurant experience on Delancey Street.
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At Dhamaka, menus are accessed via QR codes at each table, although servers are quick to clarify that the online ordering system, reminiscent of systems used by restaurants like Thai Diner, is not currently active. This means that personal interaction with the staff remains essential for ordering dishes like their exceptional seekh kebabs, a highlight of this relatively new restaurant. Having been open for just a couple of months at the time of review, Dhamaka has already made a significant impact on the New York dining scene.
Chef Pandya utilizes goat belly for the seekh kebabs, a choice that imparts an extraordinarily tender texture due to the meat’s fat content. The kebabs are so delicate they almost melt like butter on the accompanying crisp paratha bread. A charcoal finish adds a subtle smokiness, enhancing the depth of flavor. Another standout dish is the champaran stew, a testament to ovine richness. Chef Valdez slow cooks Arizona mutton for nearly five hours with mustard powder, fenugreek, and clove, resulting in fats that achieve a jam-like consistency. The mutton itself maintains a relatively mild flavor profile, with its inherent earthiness and gaminess delicately balanced by the sweet warmth of the spices.
The ragda pattice, initially appearing deceptively simple as a potato patty reminiscent of hash browns but with the texture of a soft rice cake, soon reveals layers of complexity. It’s generously topped with crunchy white peas and a sweet date-tamarind chutney, pushing the dish towards dessert-like sweetness. However, this sweetness is quickly countered by a building heat from a green chile, delivering a fiery kick that combines the sharpness of onion with the intense heat of habanero seeds. While the heat eventually subsides, it can linger, particularly when following the gurda kapoora. Indeed, after enjoying the kidneys, the arrival of the goat biryani prompted a brief interlude spent cooling down the palate with a side of pomegranate-studded yogurt that accompanied the rice.
The biryani itself, featuring long, slender grains glistening with fat, possesses its own distinct level of spiciness. Chiles initially hit the tip of the tongue, followed by a robust wave of ginger and black cardamom that envelops the palate. For those sensitive to spice, there’s reassurance in knowing that the heat mellows slightly as the dish cools, as heat tends to amplify the perception of spiciness. Dhamaka on Delancey Street offers a truly flavorful and often spicy, but always rewarding, Indian dining experience in New York City.
While outdoor dining has become prevalent, it’s understandable that some may still feel hesitant, particularly as vaccination rates vary across different demographics and neighborhoods. For those preferring takeout, Adda and Rahi, Dhamaka’s sister restaurants, continue to offer this option. However, Dhamaka’s current dining setup might raise questions for some patrons and staff. Like many establishments, a large tent covers the outdoor dining space, with tables spaced appropriately. On warmer evenings, large openings on one side provided ventilation. However, on cooler evenings, these openings were observed to be closed, potentially altering the intended open-air experience.
New York City regulations classify tents with fewer than two open sides as indoor dining spaces, which the CDC categorizes as among the higher-risk forms of dining out. Furthermore, as in both indoor and outdoor dining settings, patrons often remove masks and keep them off, even when interacting with service staff. This raises broader questions about the readiness of the city for the current dining landscape. Despite these considerations, Dhamaka on Delancey Street provides a compelling and unique Indian dining experience that is drawing significant attention in New York City.
Dhamaka
119 Delancey Street, Manhattan, NY 10002 (212) 204-8616 Visit Website
