Dirty French, nestled within the trendy Ludlow Hotel on the Lower East Side’s vibrant Ludlow Street, emerges as a daring venture from the acclaimed Carbone team. This “roughed up Gallic bistro,” as described by The New York Times, promises a departure from traditional French dining, injecting a dose of playful “dirtiness” into classic cuisine. Anticipation hangs thick in the air as you approach its doors, especially given the team’s reputation and the prime location in the spottily gentrified heart of the Lower East Side. Is this “dirty” concept just a gimmick, or does Dirty French on Ludlow Street deliver a truly unique and compelling dining experience?
First Impressions: Ambiance and Arrival at Dirty French
Stepping into Dirty French, the initial atmosphere is intriguing. Forget the pristine white tablecloths of a traditional bistro; here, bare wood tables (or perhaps formica) set a more casual tone. The decor is far from understated. A quirky collection of art, curated by Vito Schnabel, son of Julian, adorns the walls, including a shelf displaying heads and torsos with playfully bruised and bloodied features. This unexpected artistic touch hints at the “dirty” theme, a subtle rebellion against stuffy French formality.
The entrance to Dirty French on Ludlow Street, marked simply as "French" above the door.
Adding to the whimsical ambiance are strategically placed roosters and a smartly dressed frog figure near the welcome stand. A large, tilted mirror framed with lights adds a touch of theatricality, although its “fun house” effect might be lost on the near-sighted. The seating features an ostrich banquette, adding a tactile element to the experience. Even the sommelier plays into the unconventional theme, eschewing typical attire for a floor-length dimity frock, channeling a Little Bo-Peep persona rather than a predictable wine expert. This playful, slightly theatrical atmosphere sets Dirty French apart from your typical bistro even before the food arrives.
A display shelf at Dirty French on Ludlow Street features art pieces depicting figures with black eyes and bloodied noses.
Securing a table, even at an early Saturday hour, proves to be a minor ordeal, highlighting the restaurant’s immediate popularity. Despite the seemingly empty tables, the wait for seating underscores its sought-after status. Once seated at a cozy two-top, the arrival of a Zaragoza Reposada Tequila cocktail, tall and fruity, acts as a welcome palate cleanser and a precursor to the dining adventure ahead. The initial moments at Dirty French suggest a dining experience that is both sophisticated and deliberately irreverent.
Culinary Exploration: From Oysters to Flatbread – The “Dirty” Dining Experience Begins
The “dirty” concept at Dirty French on Ludlow Street starts to become clearer with the arrival of the first courses. The waiter, far from being insulted by a lack of immediate wine order, enthusiastically presents the day’s oyster selection in a grand silver tureen filled with ice. He details the option of grilled Bourgogne-style oysters, drawing a comparison to snails, showcasing the bistro’s willingness to play with classic French preparations.
The house “flatbread” arrives next, presented on a tiered silver tray with herbed fromage blanc. The playful “dirty” element is explicitly revealed when silverware is requested – “That’s the dirty part,” the waiter quips, encouraging diners to use their fingers. This casual approach, contrasting with the otherwise refined presentation, is a key element of the Dirty French experience. The flatbread itself is undeniably delicious, inviting diners to tear and dip it generously into the flavorful fromage blanc.
However, not every dish hits the mark perfectly. The tuna tartare, while featuring quality ingredients, is somewhat overshadowed by an excessive amount of dried-out crêpe Indochine, hinting at a slight imbalance in execution in some areas. Despite this minor misstep, the overall direction of the menu becomes apparent. The “dirty” in Dirty French refers not to actual grime, but to a playful subversion of French culinary norms, incorporating global influences and a more relaxed, hands-on approach to dining.
Main Courses: French Classics with a Twist at Dirty French
The menu at Dirty French on Ludlow Street clearly embraces this fusion concept. Berber spices subtly enhance the roast clams almondine, while foie gras is paired with a crispy Algerian pancake. Cajun spices add a kick to the porgy Provençale, and a Créole relish accompanies the excellent, peppery boudin. This blend of French technique with global flavors is where Dirty French truly distinguishes itself.
The duck à l’orange, a French classic, is reimagined as a “Dirty” duck. Instead of the whole bird, Dirty French focuses on a dramatically enhanced duck breast – generously sized and marinated in a North African spice blend reminiscent of ras el hanout. Slow-cooked to perfection and served with preserved orange, the duck is a highlight. While the sauce might lean slightly towards sweetness and richness, and a bit of stickiness is unavoidable even with cutlery, the perfectly crisp skin and moist, rare flesh make it a truly satisfying dish.
Similarly impressive is the cumin-rubbed saddle of lamb. Cooked to a requested rare, it showcases both nuanced flavor and masterful slow-cooking technique. The accompanying pommes Anna are delightfully crisp, and even the slightly over-salted cauliflower side dish is otherwise well-executed, demonstrating a consistent level of quality across the main courses. As the evening progresses, the restaurant fills with a fashionable crowd, the lights dim, and the soundtrack shifts to 80s rock, further enhancing the energetic and slightly edgy ambiance of Dirty French Ludlow Street.
The Chicken Revelation: A Two-Service Masterpiece
One dish at Dirty French on Ludlow Street deserves special attention: the chicken. Served in two distinct services, it’s a culinary performance in itself. The first service arrives with a mysterious glass dish of radish thins and herbs, a signal that chicken is imminent. This dish transforms into a gleaming glass chicken when inverted, adding a touch of theatrical flair.
Next, bussers present a duo of voluptuous chicken breasts, neatly sliced and bathed in a creamy mustard jus, served in a black iron skillet. Accompaniments include harissa, mustard, tamarind and apricot chutney, and paper-thin crêpes, encouraging a Peking duck-style assembly. Wrapping the succulent white meat in the crêpes with the various sauces and fresh basil and mint leaves is a delightful culinary exercise, showcasing the unexpected moistness and flavor of the chicken breast.
The first service of chicken at Dirty French, featuring breasts, condiments, and paper-thin pancakes for wrapping.
Just as you finish the first service, the second act arrives. Blackened thighs are dramatically dumped atop the remaining white meat in the skillet, alongside two long, sooty chicken legs, claws and all. While the presentation might elicit initial reactions of surprise (or even slight alarm), the deep-fried, juicy chicken legs are a revelation. The entire chicken experience is a testament to the kitchen’s skill and creativity, making it a standout dish at Dirty French Ludlow Street.
Deep-fried chicken claws, part of the second service of the chicken dish at Dirty French.
Sweet Endings and Lingering Thoughts
Dessert at Dirty French on Ludlow Street offers a final playful note. The rum raisin ice cream atop pineapple and banana tarte tatin might be considered “unforgivably dirty” in its richness, but it’s a decadent and satisfying end to the meal. Even a slight misstep with grilled oysters, overwhelmed by a grassy flavor, is easily forgiven in the context of the overall dining experience. The unusually addictive house-made bread, prepared fresh for each table like skillet pancakes, is another unexpected highlight.
Flying saucer-shaped fried potatoes served with crème fraîche, paprika, and chives at Dirty French.
Despite a few minor inconsistencies, Dirty French on Ludlow Street succeeds in creating a memorable and engaging dining experience. The “dirty” concept, while initially ambiguous, translates into a playful, globally-influenced take on French bistro cuisine, served in a lively and unconventional setting. From the quirky decor to the two-service chicken and the hands-on flatbread, Dirty French offers a refreshing departure from traditional French dining. While the future evolution of the menu and service remains to be seen, Dirty French on Ludlow Street is undoubtedly a restaurant worth experiencing, offering a unique and flavorful addition to the Lower East Side dining scene.
Beignets with caramel sauce, a sugary dessert option at Dirty French.
Dirty French is located at 180 Ludlow Street, just south of Houston Street. Call 212 254 3000 for reservations and hours. Dinner is served Monday through Saturday, 5:30 to 11 pm. Closed on Sundays.
