Nestled in the heart of Portland, Maine’s historic Old Port district, Fore Street restaurant has quietly established itself as a must-visit dining destination for locals and tourists alike. It’s a place where the simple act of choosing what to eat is met with joyful surrender, as perfectly captured by the advice, “Open the menu and go ‘Eenie, meenie, miney, mo.'” This sentiment, shared by a seasoned Boston food critic, speaks volumes about the consistent quality and delightful surprise that awaits every diner at Fore Street. Even on a cold winter evening, the allure of this beloved New England eatery draws crowds, a testament to its enduring appeal and reputation.
Ambiance and Setting: Where Transparency Meets Rustic Charm
Fore Street’s charm begins before you even taste the food. Housed within a beautifully renovated brick warehouse in Portland’s Old Port, the restaurant seamlessly blends rustic appeal with an open, transparent ethos. Long before “transparency” became a buzzword in the culinary world, Fore Street opened its doors, revealing its entire kitchen to the eager eyes of its patrons. The layout is akin to a theater-in-the-round, with tiered seating surrounding the central kitchen stage. Here, the culinary magic unfolds, dominated by a magnificent wood-fired oven and spits turning over an open hearth, creating a mesmerizing focal point.
The building itself retains its original warehouse character, boasting exposed brick walls, sturdy wooden beams, and soaring ceilings. Large windows offer glimpses of the bustling port and the ferries traversing Casco Bay, connecting the dining experience to Portland’s maritime heritage. Located in the Old Port, Fore Street benefits from being part of a vibrant neighborhood filled with shops and galleries, perfect for leisurely strolls before or after your meal. The area’s recent addition of a year-round farmers’ market further enhances its appeal, adding to Portland’s reputation as a food lover’s haven.
The Culinary Visionary Behind Fore Street: Chef Sam Hayward
The driving force behind Fore Street’s success is Chef and owner Sam Hayward, a pivotal figure in shaping Portland and Maine’s current culinary landscape. Often credited with transforming the region into a “Bay Area of the East” for artisan food and dining, Hayward’s culinary journey is deeply rooted in a passion for local ingredients and straightforward cooking. His career began in 1974 on a small Maine island, followed by classical training in New York and New Orleans kitchens. Inspired by a New Yorker article about a chef dedicated to personalized cuisine, Hayward returned to Maine and opened his first restaurant in Brunswick in 1981.
From the outset, Hayward prioritized sourcing directly from local farmers and fishermen, a philosophy that remains at the heart of Fore Street. Although his Brunswick venture faced financial challenges due to its small scale, it garnered a devoted following, including food critics who recognized Hayward’s talent for highlighting the best local ingredients with minimal intervention and maximum flavor. This dedication to simple, honest cooking and local sourcing is what defines the Fore Street experience.
A Taste of Maine: Signature Dishes from the Wood-Fired Oven
While Fore Street’s location naturally draws attention to the fresh seafood of Maine, Chef Hayward’s culinary heart truly beats for the wood-fired oven and the unique flavors it imparts. Yes, you’ll find impeccably fresh Pemaquid oysters, sweet diver-caught scallops, and Scottish-style smoked salmon. However, it’s the dishes touched by fire that truly exemplify Fore Street’s mastery.
Consider the fish and shellfish stew, elevated beyond the ordinary with the addition of applewood-smoked bacon roasted in the wood-fired oven. Scallops are grilled over applewood, infusing them with a subtle smoky sweetness before being incorporated into dishes like a tart shell with lobster and maitake mushrooms. Even humble rope-cultured mussels are transformed when roasted in garlic-almond butter, a surprisingly harmonious combination that enhances their natural flavor.
The wood-fired oven truly shines with meat and game. Spit-roasted pork loins and whole rabbits, reminiscent of a medieval feast, are a constant presence, slowly rotating and absorbing the smoky essence of the fire. These meats, often including chicken, are marinated overnight and cooked to perfection, offering a depth of flavor that only wood-fired cooking can achieve.
Why Fore Street Stands Out: Experience the Essence of Portland
Fore Street is more than just a restaurant; it’s an experience. It’s a celebration of Maine’s bounty, cooked with skill and integrity in a setting that is both inviting and visually captivating. The transparency of the kitchen, the rustic charm of the warehouse space, and the unwavering commitment to local, seasonal ingredients all contribute to its unique appeal.
While desserts are available, the restaurant subtly suggests a lighter finish might be more fitting after a rich, wood-fired meal. A sorbet, particularly one made with local wild blueberries or cranberries, offers a refreshing and palate-cleansing conclusion, perfectly echoing Fore Street’s commitment to transparent and local flavors.
For anyone seeking an authentic taste of Portland, Maine, Fore Street restaurant is an unmissable destination. From the warm, inviting atmosphere to the exceptional wood-fired cuisine crafted from the finest local ingredients, Fore Street delivers a dining experience that is both memorable and deeply satisfying.
Fore Street, 288 Fore Street, Portland, Maine, 207-775-2717. Dinner service from 5:30 PM onwards. Reservations recommended.
