Philadelphia’s ascent to a premier dining destination was solidified when Friday Saturday Sunday clinched the 2023 James Beard Award for outstanding restaurant. This accolade, coupled with wins for Ellen Yin of High Street Hospitality Group as outstanding restaurateur and Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon of Kalaya as best chef, Mid-Atlantic, underscored a pivotal shift. No longer overlooked, Philly’s culinary scene was officially in the spotlight. This raised pertinent questions about the city’s unique approach, prompting a closer look at what makes dining in “High Street Philly” so distinctive.
The remarkable aspect of these award-winning establishments is their evolution rather than outright novelty. Friday Saturday Sunday, celebrated in 2023, bears little resemblance to its 40-year-old predecessor in Rittenhouse Square, having been under the Williams family’s ownership since 2015. Kalaya’s grand Fishtown iteration is a significant expansion from its humble Bella Vista beginnings in 2019. Even Ellen Yin’s acclaimed High Street restaurant, a cornerstone of Old City, relocated in 2020, demonstrating a willingness to reinvent itself rather than rest on past laurels.
These examples aren’t anomalies; they represent a pattern in Philadelphia’s vibrant food landscape. Restaurants in “High Street Philly” frequently thrive by reimagining themselves, their menus, and their spaces, proving evolution is key to longevity in this discerning market.
Philadelphia often embodies the charm of a small town within a major metropolis. This intimate community spirit fosters a strong inclination to champion local talent and resist external influences. National restaurant chains often struggle to gain traction in Philly, highlighting the city’s preference for homegrown establishments. Despite being the second-largest East Coast city, Philadelphia’s dining scene maintains a remarkable stability, avoiding the rapid turnover seen in other major U.S. cities. Diners in “High Street Philly” are deeply loyal, nurturing enduring relationships with their beloved restaurants.
George Banks-Weston, a local food writer and publisher of Geo’s Table, notes, “I’ve experienced the food scene in other major cities like New York or Chicago, and what I know about Philadelphia is that, no matter how vast the restaurant landscape has become, we have always managed to maintain a small-town feel.” This sentiment captures the essence of “High Street Philly”—a place where culinary innovation is rooted in community and loyalty.
The adage “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” takes on a nuanced meaning in Philadelphia. Here, the philosophy is more about enhancement. The unwavering customer loyalty in “High Street Philly” empowers restaurants to consistently push boundaries. They expand, rebrand, relocate, and evolve, enriching the dining scene with both excitement and enduring appeal.
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High Street restaurant, a prime example of “High Street Philly” dining, embodies this evolutionary spirit. Ellen Yin’s original restaurant in Old City, formerly known as High Street on Market, prominently featured a large map of Philadelphia from 1803. This map depicted Market Street in its early days, then called High Street, surrounded by farmlands. When rising rents forced its closure in 2020 during the pandemic, High Street pivoted to a delivery and pickup model, offering gourmet sandwiches, soups, salads, and pastries. However, Yin’s vision for a sit-down restaurant persisted, leading to the reopening of High Street in Center City in fall 2023. The “on Market” was dropped from the name, but the historical map, a symbol of its heritage, made the move to the new location.
“The original iconic map of Philadelphia in 1803 lives in the takeout shop, but we included a portion of it in the new restaurant, as well as newer maps showing the city’s progression into the 20th century,” explains Yin, founder and co-owner of High Street Hospitality Group. “One thing we wanted to show is that High Street is continuing to progress and the maps demonstrate that in a clear manner.” This use of maps illustrates the restaurant’s journey and its place within the evolving “High Street Philly” landscape.
The maps are more than décor; they represent the conceptual growth of High Street. The new location at 101 S. 9th Street boasts a redesigned space with high ceilings and expansive corner windows, filling the area with natural light. Initially, large steel columns posed design challenges, but Marguerite Rodgers Interior Design ingeniously integrated them, creating a bar that enhanced the restaurant’s acclaimed beverage program. A larger bakery area now supports expanded bakery and pizza classes, while the Back Room, an elegant private dining space, pays homage to the shared dining room of the original Fork and High Street.
Despite these significant changes, the menu retains its core philosophy, emphasizing hyper-regional ingredients and showcasing local purveyors, artisans, and cheesemakers. Executive chef Christina McKeough, who has been with the company since 2019, ensures continuity. Crucially, High Street’s dedication to carbohydrate-rich dishes remains unchanged, with many menu items perfectly complemented by their signature fresh bread.
“With dining tastes constantly evolving, it felt like an opportunity to take this concept to the next level rather than creating something completely new,” Yin states. “It demonstrates our resilience.” This resilience is a hallmark of successful restaurants in “High Street Philly.”
Pod, another “High Street Philly” institution, exemplifies dramatic reinvention. When Stephen Starr opened Pod in 2000 near the University of Pennsylvania, it was a novelty. Designed by the Rockwell Group with futuristic aesthetics, Pod featured pod-like booths with color-changing lights and a conveyor belt delivering sushi. The menu offered nigiri, spring rolls, tempura, and a popular bento box.
After two decades, Pod transformed into Kpod, shifting from Japanese to Korean cuisine. This change, reportedly inspired by the “K-wave,” was seen by some critics as trend-chasing. The white lacquer furniture was replaced with earth tones, the sushi conveyor belt removed, and chef Peter Serpico introduced a Korean menu featuring mandu, rice cakes, banchan, and bibimbap.
While Kpod had its merits, customer feedback was clear: diners missed the original Pod. “When we reopened the space as Kpod in 2022, our customers kept asking us, ‘Where’s the sushi?’” recalls Starr. Responding to this demand, Pod reverted to its Japanese concept, now with a “grown-up twist.”
The revamped menu at Pod honors its origins but with greater refinement. Portions are more substantial, and dishes like mentaiko spaghetti, curry udon, and rib-eye sukiyaki reflect a deeper connection to traditional Japanese cooking. Popular new rolls like the Butter Krab Roll complement the menu.
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The interior design was also updated to appeal to a broader audience. “We’ve said farewell to the retro-modernist all-white space accented with colored lights in favor of a more contemporary look with natural woods, plywood paneled ceilings, and warm lighting,” Starr explains. However, the iconic color-changing pods were retained, available for group dining. Crucially, popular original Pod menu items like spicy tuna crispy rice and wagyu beef hot stone were reintroduced. Adding to Pod’s successful revival was the return of key personnel, including sushi chef Kevin Yanaga, highlighting the importance of talent retention in “High Street Philly”.
“It’s been a pleasure welcoming back those who’ve missed us,” Starr says. “We’ve missed them too.” Pod’s journey underscores the dynamic relationship between restaurants and their loyal “High Street Philly” clientele.
Kalaya’s evolution further illustrates the “High Street Philly” approach. After closing its original Bella Vista location in 2022, chef and owner Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon spent a month reimagining the menu and concept. Kalaya transitioned from a 30-seat BYOB to a grand 145-seat restaurant in Fishtown, complete with a full bar and redesigned by Stokes Architecture. Suntaranon describes the new Kalaya as “bigger and better.”
This significant expansion was made possible through a partnership with Defined Hospitality, a renowned restaurant group known for its collaborations with award-winning establishments like Pizzeria Beddia and Suraya. While the partnership provided resources for growth, Suntaranon was determined to maintain Kalaya’s original spirit.
“I started this concept to honor my mother, so there was never any other direction I would go in,” Suntaranon emphasizes. “The original Kalaya was so successful, and I wanted to make it bigger, more accessible, and better, and I think we — my partners, my entire team, and myself — did just that. We did what we set out to do, and there was no other direction for Kalaya but this.” This unwavering commitment to her initial vision is central to Kalaya’s success in the “High Street Philly” dining scene.
Despite the increased scale and new dishes, Kalaya’s core principles remain. “The recipes still come from my mother. We use local purveyors. We make the dishes we grew up with, ones that come from South Thailand and beyond,” Suntaranon explains. “Endless amounts of time, hard work, and heart go into running this restaurant. It is not easy. But we do the best we can. As long as people love it and keep coming back, we will continue to strive to be the best we can each and every day.” This dedication resonates deeply with “High Street Philly” diners.
“Similar to myself, I’ve observed that Philadelphia diners are fiercely loyal, wielding significant influence in sustaining the restaurant scene,” Banks-Weston notes regarding Kalaya’s continued support. “[Customers’] investment of time and support for long-standing restaurants as they evolve, as well as holding newer restaurants to high standards, play a crucial role in keeping the dining landscape vibrant and alive.” This dynamic of loyalty and high expectations shapes the “High Street Philly” culinary environment.
However, Banks-Weston cautions that not all restaurants have the resources or established clientele to reinvent themselves as dramatically. He also suggests there’s room for more establishments celebrating Philly’s culinary staples like cheesesteaks and soft pretzels, which remain integral to the city’s identity. Not every “High Street Philly” restaurant needs to undergo radical change.
Nevertheless, the pressure to adapt is growing. Gentrification in areas like Center City, Fishtown, and South Philly is shifting demographics, potentially displacing long-time diners. Whether restaurants choose to evolve or remain static, maintaining customer loyalty is paramount. The national recognition gained by adapting restaurants like Kalaya, High Street, and Pod further accelerates change within “High Street Philly.”
“One thing I do find interesting is the changing demographic of diners here and how that may play a part in why some restaurants have chosen to reinvent themselves or venture into new territory and why they are succeeding,” Banks-Weston reflects. The evolving demographics of “High Street Philly” are undeniably influencing the direction of its dining scene.
Philly’s dining scene exists in a unique balance between tradition and progress. This ambiguity, while potentially fleeting, has fostered a fertile ground for restaurant growth. While establishments like Kalaya, High Street, and Pod have navigated this transition successfully, the future impact of changing demographics and evolving tastes on “High Street Philly” remains to be seen.
Yet, Philadelphia’s culinary scene has consistently demonstrated resilience. If there were a James Beard Award for reinvention, “High Street Philly” would undoubtedly be the perpetual frontrunner, showcasing the city’s unique ability to blend tradition with innovation in its ever-evolving dining landscape.
