It had been nearly a decade since my last visit to New York City. My memories were of a pre-Covid, pre-Trump era – a city buzzing with an unparalleled vibrancy and energy. New York possessed a unique character unlike any other. Since then, despite avoiding the severe hardships faced by other US cities, I’d heard whispers of decline; Midtown losing its luster, a sense of unease creeping into the subway, and quieter streets best avoided after dark. It sounded like a step back in time, reminiscent of the 70s. Could I expect to rediscover the New York I remembered so fondly?
Returning two weeks ago, for the first time in almost ten years, I was relieved to find these concerns largely unfounded. New York, in many ways, seemed to have weathered recent global challenges remarkably well. Arriving in TriBeCa, a long-time favorite neighborhood, felt like a warm welcome back to the New York I cherished. This positive impression was significantly enhanced by the discovery of a new hotel that completely shattered any lingering doubts.
Tribeca NYC
Image: A vibrant street scene in TriBeCa, New York, showcasing the neighborhood’s lively atmosphere.
The Warren Street Hotel, the latest gem from Firmdale Hotels, joins their impressive collection of boutique properties. Firmdale, known for their distinctive style, boasts renowned establishments like the Charlotte Street, Covent Garden, and Soho Hotels in London, as well as the Crosby Street Hotel in New York. Their naming strategy is refreshingly direct: they plant their flag and name their hotels after their locations, making a clear statement. While perhaps not directly on Warren Street in London, the Warren Street Hotel in New York embodies the same sophisticated and unique charm one might expect from a top hotel in London.
And if the Warren Street Hotel is any indication, Firmdale’s statement is resounding. As my taxi turned the corner, the hotel emerged – a striking vision of glass and steel in aquamarine blue, standing out elegantly against the muted tones of its neighbors. The windows were not just floor-to-ceiling, but wall-to-wall, maximizing the breathtaking views. Stepping into my 10th-floor suite, the expansive window, dominating the entire wall in both the lounge and bedroom, almost overshadowed the hotel’s defining feature: its exceptional interior design.
Warren Street Hotel Lobby
Image: The visually striking lobby of Warren Street Hotel, New York, showcasing Kit Kemp’s signature vibrant and eclectic design.
Kit Kemp, Firmdale’s creative director and designer, seems to personally welcome you into the lobby. It’s an explosion of color; vivid primaries, abstract prints, contrasting patterns, and captivating artworks – a true visual feast. There’s an undeniable quality to Kemp’s designs that feels both inviting and aspirational, reflecting how one might decorate their own home, if given the chance. It’s bold yet refined, eclectic yet cohesive. Signature touches abound: textured fabrics, including wonderfully tactile linen wall coverings, beautifully framed pictures, and pops of red – in this instance, two scarlet painted chests of drawers in the living room. This design philosophy is reminiscent of the unique and stylish boutique hotels found in areas like Warren Street, London, known for their individual character and charm.
Warren Street Hotel Suite Interior
Image: A beautifully appointed suite at Warren Street Hotel, highlighting the eclectic artwork, luxurious fabrics, and thoughtful design details.
Adding to the allure were carefully chosen artworks and objets d’art, Kemp’s own Tall Trees toiletries, and Spode china in the discreet kitchenette. The bed was simply magnificent, crowned with a grand headboard. It created a space you genuinely didn’t want to leave. Kemp’s book, ‘Every Room Tells a Story,’ placed on the coffee table, encouraged a deeper appreciation for every element, prompting more consideration than I usually give to hotel room design. However, it was raising the blind and revealing the view that truly highlighted the hotel’s exceptional location. Directly ahead stood One World Trade Centre, majestically towering above the surrounding buildings.
The World Trade Center site was just a short walk away. After a quintessential cup of tea, brewed in a proper teapot (a delightful rarity!) using the Spode china, I strolled towards the site. The area has undergone a remarkable transformation. The new World Trade Center building (now a decade old but still striking and elegant) overlooks the memorial – a poignant cascading sculpture marking the footprints of the former towers. Amidst the modern developments – shopping, restaurants, attractions like the Oculus, and the 9/11 museum – a palpable sense of solemnity remains, underscored by the occasional white rose placed beside names to commemorate birthdays of those lost.
The Oculus World Trade Center
Image: The striking architecture of The Oculus at the World Trade Center, a symbol of modern New York.
My walk back took me along the Hudson and through Rockefeller Park, offering a distant view of the Statue of Liberty, before heading north towards Chelsea and the West Village. My visit coincided with the Biennial at The Whitney Museum of American Art, a place I’d surprisingly never visited despite numerous trips to the city – a common oversight for tourists who often prioritize institutions like The Met.
The Whitney Biennial, showcasing leading artists such as Edward Hopper, Jacob Lawrence, and Georgia O’Keeffe, is the museum’s flagship exhibition, a significant survey of contemporary American art for over 90 years. The 2024 edition, Even Better Than the Real Thing, features 71 contemporary artists exploring relevant and timely issues, sparking conversations amongst the city’s art enthusiasts. This year’s themes included gender identity and AI. Just as art galleries near Warren Street in London offer diverse and thought-provoking exhibitions, the Whitney Biennial provides a similar cultural richness in New York.
Whitney Biennial Art Exhibition
Image: An intriguing artwork displayed at the Whitney Biennial, showcasing the museum’s focus on contemporary American art and thought-provoking themes.
Among many standout pieces, Pippa Garner’s satirical commentary on consumer culture, ‘impossible inventions’ – whimsical ideas sketched in a retro magazine ad style – stood out on the 3rd floor. After two hours of art and a long morning of walking, the museum’s new Frenchette bakery offered a welcome respite with a pizz’ete and a refreshing yuzu soda.
Much has changed in New York since my last visit. The now-iconic High Line, conveniently close to the Whitney, had opened. Having gained a different perspective of the city, I ventured into Chelsea and revisited the decidedly not-new Chelsea Market. It’s been a New York staple since my first visit in the mid-2000s. However, it has evolved considerably. While grocery outlets and market produce remain, it’s now dominated by trendy eateries and boutique shops, while retaining its charming red brick character. Similar to the vibrant markets near Warren Street, London, Chelsea Market offers a unique blend of food and shopping experiences.
Chelsea Market New York
Image: The bustling interior of Chelsea Market in New York, a vibrant hub of food vendors and boutique shops.
It’s easy to lose track of time simply wandering through New York. My Garmin recorded over 16,000 steps as I returned to the Warren Street Hotel, collapsing into a lounge armchair, eagerly anticipating a drink and snack from the honesty bar. It was a reminder that attempting to see everything in a single day is impossible. As I glanced towards the restaurant for dinner, I was already contemplating the next day’s explorations.
New York, I’m back, and my appreciation for you has only deepened.
The Warren Street Hotel, 86 Warren Street, New York, NY 10007. A superior room starts at $875 per night. For more information, including details of other properties in the Firmdale portfolio, please visit www.firmdalehotels.com.
The Whitney Biennial runs until 11th August 2024. For more information, please visit www.whitney.org. For more information about the World Trade Center, including what to see and do, please visit www.officialworldtradecenter.com. For more information about the Chelsea Market, including details of shops and eateries, and for details of what’s on, please visit www.chelseamarket.com.
For inspiration on things to do in New York City, and to start planning your trip, please visit the official tourism website at www.nyctourism.com.
Hotel photos by Simon Brown
