Venturing into New York City with a Seinfeld-inspired craving for marble rye led me straight to East Houston Street, a legendary artery of culinary history. While my sitcom-fueled quest was initially focused on the elusive loaf, I soon discovered something far richer: the enduring legacy of Jewish delis, and at the heart of it all, the iconic Katz’s Delicatessen, located at 205 East Houston Street, New York, NY, USA.
My guidebook pointed me towards East Houston Street as a hub for authentic Jewish eateries, not far from the Tenement Museum, hinting at the area’s deep immigrant roots. It was here, amidst the bustling Lower East Side, that I encountered Katz’s Delicatessen, a name synonymous with New York’s culinary heritage.
Exterior of Katz's Delicatessen on East Houston Street, New York City
The story of Katz’s begins in 1888, when the Iceland brothers established a modest deli on Ludlow Street. The arrival of Willy Katz in 1903 marked a turning point, leading to the name “Iceland & Katz.” By 1910, Willy’s cousin Benny joined, and together they bought out the Icelands, officially christening it Katz’s Delicatessen. This wasn’t just a name change; it was the solidification of a New York institution.
During the early 20th century, the Lower East Side teemed with newly arrived immigrant families. Limited transportation fostered a strong sense of community, and Katz’s became a vital gathering place. Friday nights saw locals flocking to enjoy franks and beans, a cherished Katz’s tradition that highlighted its role as a neighborhood cornerstone. Even during World War II, with the owners’ three sons serving overseas, Katz’s commitment to community extended beyond New York, famously adopting the slogan “Send A Salami To Your Boy In The Army,” a testament to their enduring connection with families and tradition.
Stepping into Katz’s is an experience in itself. The boisterous atmosphere, packed with locals and tourists alike, immediately immerses you in its vibrant energy. While finding a table proved challenging, simply standing and absorbing the surroundings was captivating. The walls, adorned with photographs of famous patrons from the golden age of Yiddish theatre, whisper tales of a bygone era when actors, singers, and comedians frequented the deli. These faces, though unfamiliar to me, were a compelling visual history, each snapshot a window into Katz’s rich past and its deep ties to New York’s cultural scene.
While Katz’s was my primary destination, East Houston Street offered a broader glimpse into the world of Jewish culinary traditions. A short walk led me to Russ & Daughters, another landmark institution.
Display of various smoked fish at Russ & Daughters on East Houston Street, New York City
The story of Russ & Daughters is equally compelling. Starting with Joel Russ, who peddled Polish mushrooms to support his family, the business evolved over four generations into a Smithsonian-recognized landmark. From its humble beginnings as a pushcart, Russ opened his first store in 1914 on Orchard Street, expanding his offerings to include herring and salmon. Relocating to a larger space in the 1920s, he was joined by his daughters, and in 1933, he renamed it Russ & Daughters, believed to be the first US business to include daughters in its title.
Russ & Daughters is a feast for the senses. The shop overflows with smoked salmon from around the world, herring prepared in countless ways, and an array of Jewish delicacies. Trays of halva, flavored and plain cream cheeses, and bagels of every variety create a visual and olfactory symphony, showcasing the breadth and depth of Jewish culinary traditions.
Selection of cream cheeses and bagels at Russ & Daughters, New York
Various types of smoked salmon at Russ & Daughters deli in New York
Flavored cream cheeses at Russ and Daughters deli, New York
Further exploration of East Houston Street brought me to The Original Yonah Schimmel Knishery, a testament to the enduring appeal of simple, traditional foods.
Exterior of Yonah Schimmel Knishery on East Houston Street, New York
Yonah Schimmel, a Romanian immigrant, began selling knishes from a pushcart in 1890. As demand grew, he partnered with his cousin Joseph Berger, opening a store on Houston Street. While Yonah later departed, Berger maintained the original name, and in 1910, the knishery moved to its current location on the south side of Houston Street. Still family-run, it is now managed by Yonah’s great-nephew, Alex Wolfman, a living link to its storied past.
Sign for Yonah Schimmel Knishery on East Houston Street today
Despite its unassuming, almost timeworn appearance, Yonah Schimmel Knishery was buzzing with activity, orders being shouted and filled with impressive speed. The menu, filled with sweet and savory knish options, was initially overwhelming. Opting for a freshly steamed tray, I sampled my first knish.
Selection of knishes at Yonah Schimmel Knishery in New York City
Close-up of steaming hot knishes at Yonah Schimmel's
The potato and spinach knish was a revelation – a comforting blend of cheesy mashed potato and spinach encased in a light pastry. Hearty and satisfying, it was easy to see why knishes became a staple street food, perfect for fueling working laborers.
A delicious potato knish from Yonah Schimmel Knishery, New York
My afternoon spent wandering through these East Houston Street Jewish eateries was an immersive sensory experience. While the marble rye remained elusive, the vibrant atmosphere, the echoes of Yiddish conversations reminiscent of a Seinfeld backdrop, and the rich aromas of bagels, cakes, and steaming food created an unforgettable taste of New York history. East Houston Street is more than just a location; it’s a living, breathing testament to the city’s immigrant heritage and its enduring culinary traditions, with Katz’s Delicatessen standing as a must-visit landmark for anyone seeking an authentic New York experience.
