The Maxwell Street Market in Chicago is a vibrant open-air market with a rich history and diverse offerings. From its humble beginnings as a haven for immigrants to its current iteration as a bustling hub of food, culture, and commerce, Maxwell Street Market has consistently offered a unique Chicago experience. This guide delves into the heart of Maxwell Street Market, highlighting must-try foods, refreshing drinks, common finds, and even bargain treasures, making it your essential companion for navigating this dynamic Chicago institution.
Chicago bluesman performing at Maxwell Street Market
A Taste of History: The Maxwell Street Market Story
Born in the late 19th century, Maxwell Street Market arose organically on Chicago’s Near South Side. The area, a melting pot of newly arrived immigrants – Jewish, Italian, and many others – became a magnet for those seeking value, deals, and perhaps even a bit of the illicit. Where people gathered, food naturally followed. In its early days, the market was characterized by the aromas of deli cuisine, reflecting its immigrant roots.
As the Great Migration reshaped Chicago, the neighborhood’s demographic shifted, becoming a significant center of African-American culture. This transition infused Maxwell Street with the soulful sounds of blues music, directly contributing to the birth of Chicago blues. Alongside the evolving music scene, culinary offerings expanded to include barbecue, perfectly complementing the existing corned beef stands. This vibrant era of Maxwell Street was famously captured in the 1980 film The Blues Brothers, featuring a legendary performance by John Lee Hooker right on Maxwell Street, in front of the fictional “Soul Food Cafe” (in reality, Nate’s Delicatessen).
In 1994, the original Maxwell Street Market was displaced to make way for the development of University Village. The market relocated to Canal Street, and a significant shift occurred – the vendor profile and food offerings increasingly reflected Mexican culinary traditions. This transformation was captured in a 2003 video tour, showcasing the evolving flavors of the market. Relocation struck again a few years later. Today, every Sunday from 7 am to 3 pm, the Maxwell Street Market thrives on Desplaines Street, stretching roughly from Polk to Taylor. The air is thick with the enticing scents of masa and frying lard, punctuated by hints of barbecue and Polish sausage, creating an olfactory tapestry unique to Maxwell Street.
The market’s character is ever-changing, its size and vendor mix fluctuating week by week, even month to month. This dynamic nature presents a unique charm, but also makes creating a static guide challenging. To provide lasting value, this guide focuses on long-standing vendors and culinary staples, ensuring a reliable Maxwell Street experience for years to come.
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Guide 1: Must-Try Maxwell Street Market Foods
This guide navigates you through the market from north to south (Polk to Taylor on Desplaines), highlighting must-try food vendors generally found in specific areas. For drivers, parking north of Roosevelt around Polk offers metered street parking, typically around $4/hour. Be aware of potential street construction and plan accordingly. Public transport via the Red Line to Roosevelt station, followed by a short walk west, is a convenient alternative.
These are the culinary stars of Maxwell Street Market, the tastes that will make you a repeat visitor.
Rubi’s Amazing Tacos
Delicious taco al pastor from Rubi's stand at Maxwell Street Market
Location: North end, West side
For early birds, Rubi’s is a prime first stop. Renowned for quesadillas and incredibly popular tacos, Rubi’s features freshly made tortillas generously filled with your choice of meat and/or cheese, topped with cilantro and onions. Be prepared for a queue, even early in the day. A recent 10-person line took 20 minutes, and by noon, the line can swell to over 60. While undeniably delicious, consider visiting Rubi’s earlier to avoid excessive waits. The steak (asada) taco ($3.00) is a crowd favorite, but the taco al pastor, boasting a subtle pineapple sweetness and grilled bulb onions, is equally recommended.
Tamal Oaxaca: Authentic Oaxacan Flavors
Traditional Oaxacan tamal wrapped in banana leaf at Maxwell Street Market
Location: North end, East side
Tamal Oaxaca is a Maxwell Street Market institution for many, and a personal favorite for over 15 years. The Oaxaca tamale verde ($3.50) is a consistent highlight – tender chicken enveloped in moist corn flour, steamed in a banana leaf, and served with salsa verde or rich red mole, finished with a dollop of crema. Don’t shy away from the crema; its lushness perfectly balances the salsa’s gentle heat. These substantial tamales reheat wonderfully in a microwave (simply warm them in their banana leaf). For a take-home option, consider the pozole ($6), a flavorful hominy and pork soup served with chips, salsas, and garnishes like lettuce, onion, and radish – a complete meal to go.
Tacos Bernardo: Adventurous Eating
Montalayo taco featuring unique ingredients at Tacos Bernardo's Maxwell Street Market stall
Location: Middle, East side
Like many Maxwell Street vendors, Tacos Bernardo prides itself on hand-made tortillas – incredibly soft, absorbent, yet sturdy enough to hold their fillings. During warmer months, tables are adorned with Styrofoam cups filled with papalo, a mild herb and popular Mexican condiment. Papalo, with its subtle flavor and purported digestive benefits, is worth trying. For the truly adventurous, the montalayo taco ($2) is a must-try – a spicy red sauce concoction of various organ meats (typically cow stomach, possibly esophagus, spleen, and liver). While it’s an offal-lover’s delight, the generous cilantro and onion topping surprisingly enhances the experience, making even the most unusual cuts palatable.
Tacos Arroyos: A Touch of the Unusual
Michael Gebert enjoying tacos at Tacos Arroyos stand at Maxwell Street Market
Location: Middle, East side
While eyeball tacos, a legendary Maxwell Street offering, are no longer available, Tacos Arroyos still provides a walk on the wild side of market dining. Their tacos ($2 each) are all well-prepared, but the buche taco stands out. Filled with pork stomach cooked in pork fat, this rich and flavorful taco is not for the faint of heart. However, for those seeking unique culinary experiences, Tacos Arroyos, along with Tacos Bernardo, represent the last bastions of truly adventurous eating at Maxwell Street Market.
Xurro: Fresh Fried Dough Perfection
Xurro truck serving fresh churros at Maxwell Street Market
Location: Middle, West side
Churros are ubiquitous, found in bodegas and street corners across Hispanic neighborhoods. However, Xurro’s churros are in a different league. Forget day-old, pre-packaged versions; Xurro serves churros fresh from the fryer, piping hot, crispy on the outside, and cakey within. If you’re indulging in fried dough, Xurro is the place to do it right. Despite having a Navy Pier location, their Maxwell Street operation maintains exceptional quality, delivering churros as good as you can imagine.
Coctel de Fruta: Sweet and Spicy Mango Delight
Colorful Coctel de Fruta stand at Maxwell Street Market
Location: South end, East side
While their fresh fruit cocktails are refreshing, the real star at Coctel de Fruta is the mangonada. This Mexican sundae-like treat combines ice cream or sorbet, fresh mango, lime juice, Tajin (chili-lime salt), and chamoy, a complex condiment with sweet, sour, and salty notes. This stand’s mangonada also includes a tamarind paste-wrapped straw, adding another layer of flavor. It’s a flavor explosion in a cup. Variations include vampiros (with spicy mango chunks) and diablitos (with tamarind syrup and hot sauce) for those seeking even bolder tastes.
Guide 2: Quenching Your Thirst at Maxwell Street
Refreshing Nopales smoothie at Maxwell Street Market
While alcoholic beverages are absent from Maxwell Street Market (it’s Sunday morning!), a variety of refreshing and unique fruit and vegetable-based drinks are readily available.
M&J Smoothies: For the adventurous, the nopales smoothie is a must-try. Nopales, or cactus paddles, are blended with celery, pineapple, and orange juice into a frothy, subtly sweet, light green beverage ($4). It’s a surprisingly delicious and refreshing complement to spicy market fare. M&J also offers smoothies featuring other fruits and vegetables like peach, guava, spinach, and beet.
El Campeon Pina Colada: For a visually impressive and refreshing drink, El Campeon’s Pina Colada ($8.50) is a standout. A pineapple is hollowed out and filled with canned pineapple and coconut juice. While slightly touristy, it’s undeniably refreshing and makes a statement.
Horchata, Champurrado, Licuados: Market-wide, you’ll find stands offering horchata (cinnamon-infused rice milk), champurrado (warm chocolate atole, a corn-based drink), and licuados (fruit-flavored waters like watermelon and lemon). All pair exceptionally well with Mexican food. For soda drinkers, seek out Mexican Coke, often available at Rubi’s and other vendors. Made with real sugar instead of corn syrup, it offers a cleaner, more authentic taste, worth the slightly higher price.
Assortment of refreshing Licuados at Maxwell Street Market
Guide 3: Market-Wide Culinary Finds
Certain foods are ubiquitous across Maxwell Street Market. This guide highlights these common offerings, allowing you to sample them from any vendor that catches your eye.
Exquisite Huitlacoche quesadilla from La Flor de Mexico at Maxwell Street Market
Huitlacoche: Once a rare delicacy, huitlacoche, a corn fungus also known as “corn smut,” is now readily available at Maxwell Street Market. This subtly mushroomy, black/purple ingredient adds a unique richness to tacos and quesadillas. First-timers should try it solo to fully appreciate its delicate flavor.
Flor de Calabaza: Squash blossoms, or flor de calabaza, offer a delicate, slightly vegetal note, complementing meat-heavy tacos. While often canned at the market, they still provide an interesting textural and flavor element, far more intriguing than plain lettuce.
Huarache: The huarache, named for its “sandal” shape, is a flat masa base topped with beans (black or pinto) and other fillings. Be prepared for a messy, open-faced eating experience. Knives and forks are recommended, especially as plastic cutlery may struggle with the chewy masa.
Savory Goat barbacoa at Taqueria Flor de Mexico's Maxwell Street Market stand
Elote: From summer to fall, grilled corn on the cob, or elote, is a market staple. Dressed with mayonnaise or Parkay, lime juice, and chili-lime salt, elote is a flavorful and satisfying snack. Esquites, the kernels cut off the cob, offer a less messy alternative.
Torta Ahogada: The “drowned sandwich,” or torta ahogada, features a French-style roll filled with meat and submerged in tomato sauce. True to its name, it’s a messy endeavor best tackled sitting down with plenty of napkins.
Birria: Birria, slow-cooked, flavorful meat, has evolved at Maxwell Street Market. Traditionally goat, then sometimes goat, now primarily beef, birria remains a market favorite. While truly goaty birria may be harder to find, beef versions offer the same rich, luscious flavor profile, perfect in tacos or stews. Barbacoa, similar in its slow-cooked preparation, is another delicious option for maximizing flavor from less expensive cuts of meat.
Guide 4: Bargains Beyond Food
Fashionable clothing and accessories for sale at Maxwell Street Market
Maxwell Street Market offers more than just food. Beyond the culinary delights, you can find a variety of affordable goods. Here’s a guide to some bargain finds and cautionary purchases.
Sunglasses: For stylish and budget-friendly sunglasses, Maxwell Street Market is the place. Starting around $5 a pair, or two for $6-$10, the selection ranges from trendy to classic Ray-Ban knock-offs.
Tube Socks: An unexpected Maxwell Street staple, tube socks are abundant and incredibly affordable. Packs of 10 white tube socks can be found for around $5. Quality can be surprisingly good, making them a practical and budget-friendly purchase. The sheer number of sock vendors remains a market mystery, but you can always use more socks, right?
Fresh Produce: Maxwell Street Market can be a treasure trove for fresh produce deals. Cases of mangoes for $8 or other seasonal fruits offer incredible value. However, exercise caution. While great deals abound, quality can vary. Inspect produce carefully before buying to avoid disappointments like hidden rot. The market is also an excellent source for diverse and affordable chili peppers.
Bulk dried chili peppers available at Maxwell Street Market
Toiletries: High-quality, handcrafted soaps are available from African-American vendors at both ends of the market. However, be cautious when purchasing mainstream hygiene products like deodorant or shaving cream. Some items may be of questionable origin or storage conditions, potentially affecting their quality.
Electronics: Avoid major electronics purchases like iPhones or laptops. However, accessory items like earbuds or phone cases can be worthwhile budget buys, especially if you’re willing to haggle.
T-Shirts: For novelty and pop-culture t-shirts, Maxwell Street Market is a prime destination. Find shirts featuring luchadores, the Virgin of Guadalupe, El Chapo, and other Hispanic cultural icons. Bargaining is expected. Don’t hesitate to offer lower than the asking price, and you might be surprised at the deal you can secure.
David Hammond and Carolyn Berg enjoying Maxwell Street Market
Final Tips for Your Maxwell Street Market Visit
Before venturing into Maxwell Street Market, remember to bring sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses, especially on sunny days, as the pavement can get hot.
For parking during warmer months, arrive early and aim for a spot on the east side of a north-south street (like Clinton) for afternoon shade, keeping your car cooler.
Don’t leave without grabbing fresh, hand-made tortillas. Vendors like Flor de Mexico often sell bags of tortillas for around $7. Freshly made tortillas are unparalleled in taste and quality and will last for days in the refrigerator (warm them gently before serving).
This guide is your key to unlocking the vibrant and authentic experience of Maxwell Street Market, a true Chicago treasure.
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