It’s a surprisingly peaceful early Saturday afternoon on the Taconic State Parkway. I had anticipated more traffic, but I’m certainly not complaining. Perhaps the lighter-than-expected flow on this overcast day is because the Parkway is most frequented on Fridays and Sundays. These are the days when visitors from downstate are either heading to or returning from the New York City area. This very traffic is, in part, the lifeblood of many businesses that dot the edges of this scenic route. Upstate New York’s economy has long depended on visitors from downstate since its early development, and no road embodies this reliance more than the Taconic. This parkway is more than just asphalt; it possesses a history, a character that is absent in more conventional roads, unlike its younger, more commonplace sibling, the New York State Thruway. While the Taconic’s heyday might be behind it, what remains is the essence of a simpler era of travel, slowly fading but still tangible.
The Taconic State Parkway derives its name from the Taconic mountain range, a segment of the Appalachian Mountains. Fittingly, “Taconic,” originating from the Native American words Taghkanic or Taughannock, translates to “in the trees.” This translation becomes vividly clear as you drive along the parkway, where the forest seems to envelop the road in numerous stretches. Spanning from the Kensico Dam in Westchester County to Chatham in Columbia County, the parkway is often strikingly narrow. Unlike the Thruway, there are no wide shoulders for pulling over, and exits appear suddenly from the lush greenery, much like the deer that frequently cross the road, especially in the late afternoon. The origins of the parkway can be traced back to Franklin Delano Roosevelt, an upstate New Yorker himself, and his fondness for the tranquility and fresh air of the Catskill Mountain region. Roosevelt, then a New York State Senator before his presidency, was a passionate advocate for the outdoors and a key champion of the parkway project. It was initially envisioned as a scenic route to connect various state parks—hence the name “State Parkway.” This purpose profoundly influenced the parkway’s design and the picturesque route it follows.
During the mid-20th century boom of upstate tourism, the Taconic was a vital artery. However, as the number of downstate visitors gradually decreased and resorts and attractions began to close, the Taconic’s pace also slowed. This quieter rhythm is evident on my Saturday drive. Yet, the Taconic retains a unique, compelling charm, a special rural allure that sets it apart from the predictable offerings you might find closer to urban centers, perhaps even offering a different kind of experience than the often-hyped “meme restaurants” you might find on Hudson Street.
Taconic Orchards
A Road Less Traveled: Culinary Surprises Beyond the Expected
Dan Leader, owner of Bread Alone in Rhinebeck, a stone’s throw from the Parkway, intimately understands the Taconic and its unique appeal. “The Taconic is one of those magnificently unique parkways, and I don’t know another one in the country that’s like it,” he remarks. “It’s almost like you’re driving through the English countryside.” Bread Alone, a Rhinebeck staple for about a decade, heavily relies on the Taconic and the travelers it brings. “Our business is interesting because we attract a strong base of regulars, but also a significant number of tourists and second homeowners,” Leader explains. His freshly baked goods are also distributed to numerous locations in the New York City area. “When you transition from the city onto the Taconic downstate, it’s like entering a different world. There are no strip malls, no gas stations; it’s entirely unique.”
Bread Alone also operates retail locations east of the Hudson River in Boiceville, Woodstock, and Kingston. Leader estimates he’s driven the parkway “hundreds of times” for product distribution throughout the lower Hudson Valley and New York City. “If I’m in Rhinebeck, I’ll take the Taconic straight into the city.”
My journey today isn’t to Manhattan; I’m simply exploring where the road leads. I have no fixed itinerary, just a few places in mind to discover before day’s end. Driving along the parkway in Columbia County, I feel a bit like Jack Kerouac, pulling off at an exit and venturing into the unknown. Turning onto a road that I later identify as Route 82, a large, vintage, hand-painted sign for Taconic Orchards catches my eye. It seems like the perfect place to capture the agricultural essence of the Taconic region, a stark contrast to the manufactured buzz of some urban food trends. I turn into the gravel driveway and step into a scene reminiscent of a Norman Rockwell painting. Homemade pies, cakes, and cookies abound, alongside a colorful array of fruits and vegetables, many grown just steps away. “We’re just a specialty gourmet farm market,” owner Arnold Feller says modestly. “We aim to offer unique items, and we grow much of what we sell right here.” Feller’s family has owned the farm for over a century. He proudly shows me a plaque from Governor Mario Cuomo, commemorating the farm’s centennial in 1987. “Farming is in my blood,” he says. “The store itself has been here for about 40 years, and I’d estimate that 85 percent of our food is either grown or baked here. The rest supplements our inventory.” Taconic Orchards primarily serves downstate tourists who travel up the parkway on weekends. “They arrive Friday and head back Sunday night.” Without the Taconic, Taconic Orchards’ long-term success would be far from guaranteed.
Fresh Produce at Taconic Orchards
While enjoying fresh bread, stone fruit, and pies is delightful, it’s not quite a dinner plan. My next objective is to find where Taconic travelers dine when seeking a meal. There are numerous options within a short drive of the parkway, offering a different kind of culinary experience than the predictable “meme restaurant” scene sometimes associated with places like Hudson Street. Back in my car, I head north a few miles from Taconic Orchards to Ancram, home of the West Taghkanic Diner, a classic diner serving generous portions of American comfort food and boasting a devoted following. With its vintage neon sign featuring a Native American headdress, the diner, seemingly frozen in the 1950s, is ideal for families seeking a satisfying, affordable meal, evoking a simpler era. However, today, I’m seeking something beyond simple – I’m looking for something special.
West Taghkanic Diner's Retro Charm
As the afternoon progresses, I find myself south near Milan on Route 199 in Dutchess County, in the driveway of a place that truly fits the “special” category: Another Fork in the Road. Chef and owner Jamie Parry’s restaurant appears unassuming from the outside, but stepping inside reveals its unique character. “Not really having a menu sets us apart,” Parry says, which is an understatement. “We feature whatever local ingredients are best that week; the menu is a collaborative effort between me and my staff.” This is precisely Parry’s vision when he acquired Another Fork in the Road four years prior. “I wanted to cook the food I wanted to cook, and if I failed…I failed,” he says with a shrug. “Every Tuesday night we discuss market availability and what farmers are bringing us, and we create the menu. Some dishes are hits, some less so. A few dishes might stay on the menu longer than others.”
Therefore, recommending a specific dish is almost futile, as the menu changes frequently to reflect seasonal ingredients and availability. On this particular evening, the choices are enticing: grilled tuna with piquillo pepper, roasted mushrooms, and fingerling potatoes; duck breast with turnips and greens; grilled pork loin with cornbread; and the extravagantly named ancho-rubbed Cavendish quail with black bean purée and duck chicharrónes. I opt for pickled vegetables and a green salad with salmon, both exceptional. “This location was originally a diner,” Parry mentions, highlighting his eatery’s evolution into an innovative and dynamic dining destination, far removed from the predictable trends of some “meme restaurants.”
Jamie Parry's Culinary Creations at Another Fork in the Road
Another Fork in the Road – Exquisite Dish
Another Fork in the Road – Restaurant Interior
Continuing my Taconic culinary adventure, another restaurant on my list offers a completely different but equally special experience. Pulling into Jenny’s BBQ, also on Route 199, I anticipate something unique. Located in the lower level of Milan’s Country Manor Lodge, the small restaurant, owned by husband and wife Ezra and Donna Rand, is exactly as expected: oak wood booths, classic tunes on the radio, and a framed photo of Ezra barbecuing during his Vietnam service.
“I started barbecuing as a kid,” Ezra explains, in his apron and fresh from the kitchen. “I find it fascinating because it’s such a challenging process to perfect. Anyone can grill a steak; throw it on a fire, and unless you overcook it, it’s hard to mess up. Brisket, however, is different. It’s much harder… It’s something people strive to master.” Ezra, Jenny’s head chef, has been striving since the business opened in its current form in 2000, attracting a loyal clientele of locals and tourists. “Everyone raves about our baby back ribs,” Donna says of their menu, which also includes sausage, chicken, and pork alongside the brisket. However, she admits the ribs are the top seller. “They’re incredibly juicy and satisfying. My husband smokes all the meat beautifully; he spends all day doing it.” “Hours,” Ezra interjects. I choose the brisket sandwich, but before it arrives, Donna brings a complimentary dish of freshly baked corncakes with rich maple pecan butter.
“The butter idea came from a trip down South,” Donna explains. “We visited a restaurant that served something similar, and I thought we should have something like that. I decided on maple and pecan; I think it complements the cornbread perfectly.” Ezra and Donna are well aware of the South’s barbecue tradition, striving to both emulate it and create their own distinct cuisine, offering a taste of authentic flavor that contrasts with the fleeting trends often seen in “meme restaurant” culture. I ask Donna and Ezra about the Taconic’s impact on their business.
“It didn’t used to matter much, but now with GPS, many people see our name pop up while driving and decide to try us out,” Donna says. Interestingly, as I walk in, a family is enjoying their meal at the front. “We were just on the Taconic!” the father exclaims when I mention my article. “We found Jenny’s on GPS and thought we’d see if it was good.” Their verdict? “It’s very, very good.”
Leaving Jenny’s as the sun sets, I head south on the Taconic in the darkness. Wanting to experience another establishment representing the parkway’s diverse offerings, I drive towards Millbrook and La Puerta Azul, a fine-dining Mexican restaurant less than a mile off the Taconic on Route 44. Owned by Ash Reifler and managed by Danielle Whiteley, La Puerta Azul (“The Blue Door” in English) has received numerous accolades. I’m curious to see what the buzz is about. “Our motto is that we’re just a quarter of a mile from the Taconic,” says Linda Selcanin, the general manager. “We’ve won awards for many things over the years, including best margarita, which we’re particularly proud of.” Their margarita stands out, Selcanin explains, because of their commitment to house-made ingredients. Instead of lime syrup from a box, they use fresh-squeezed limes, and they make their own simple syrup. “We have a bar area and a restaurant, both are popular and we have visitors from everywhere on weekends. Just today, someone came from Virginia.” Selcanin believes La Puerta’s appeal lies in its food and atmosphere. “Every Friday and Saturday we have live music, and that’s a big draw. One Sunday a month, a string quartet even plays during brunch.”
Continuing my Taconic journey, I aim to find another unique business benefiting from the parkway. Quattro’s, an Italian grocery store and butcher shop in Pleasant Valley, fits this perfectly. Manager Joyce Quattrociocchi explains why: “We’re a family-run farm store,” she begins. “My father-in-law was a butcher in Poughkeepsie for years, so our family has been in this business for a long time.” Uniquely, Quattro’s has a working farm directly behind the store, ensuring exceptionally local meats. “The store has been here since 1972, but my mother-in-law has been farming here since she was four years old. She’s 84 now.”
Quattro's Family and Farm Fresh Offerings
Quattro's Italian Grocery Selection
Quattro's Butcher Shop
Quattro’s distinctiveness lies in its meat quality. “We’re known for our sausages,” Quattrociocchi says proudly. “People primarily come for our farm products; I think it’s how we raise them. All our animals are hand-fed, and we avoid by-products and hormones. Freshness is key; we butcher weekly, whether it’s beef, chicken, or pork.” Quattro’s also offers a wide selection of Italian groceries, craft beers, and other treats—ideal for a quick Taconic detour. “Ninety-nine percent of our customers are serious foodies. We’re about a quarter-mile from the parkway, and the road has a very positive impact. We get visitors from everywhere; we have new customers daily.”
Quattro's Poultry Selection
My final stop, another business thriving thanks to the Taconic, is MeMe’s Treats Bakery, near the parkway and its Westchester County counterpart, the Saw Mill Parkway. MeMe’s, with locations in Shrub Oak and Bedford Hills, opened in 2012 and has gained a devoted following for its fresh cookies, cakes, and gelato. “We started in Mount Kisco but moved here for larger locations,” says Dawn White, co-owner with her husband, Gregory. After 20 years in graphic design, Dawn sought a change, opening MeMe’s, named after her grandmother and mother-in-law. “We began small with MeMe’s specialty cookies—dark chocolate, walnut chunk, and peanut butter. We expanded from there.” Like Quattro’s, MeMe’s relies on the Taconic for a steady stream of tourists and locals. “People stop in for various reasons; it’s hard to pick a favorite,” she notes. “Some love our gelato, others our cakes, which are less sweet and made with fresh, old-fashioned ingredients.”
“Old-fashioned” perfectly describes the Taconic and its collection of local, independent businesses. Like Rome, culinary exploration along the Taconic can’t be done in a day, or even a week. This list is just a glimpse of the treasures to be found. Like iconic roads such as Route 66, the Sunset Strip, Broadway, or the Autobahn, the Taconic offers endless stories and food discoveries. Each journey is personal, just as the Taconic is unique to New York and the Hudson Valley, offering a different flavor than the often-overhyped and fleeting trends of “meme restaurants” that might dominate urban food scenes.
This story was originally published in September 2013. Some featured locations may have since closed.
Off Roading: Taconic Parkway Culinary Guide
While the Taconic State Parkway provides a peaceful drive, numerous notable culinary stops are just a short detour away. Here are a few eateries, farms, and bakeries beckoning hungry drivers (arranged north to south):
Blue Plate Restaurant
1 Kinderhook Street, Chatham
518.392.7711
Chatham’s beloved comfort food spot, celebrating 18 years with live music and delicious entrees.
Our Daily Bread & The Gluten Free Bakery
116 Hudson Avenue, Chatham
518.392.2233
The gluten-free branch of this local baking empire offers delicious options for everyone.
Local 111
111 Main Street, Philmont
518.672.7801
A renovated former garage, now a refined restaurant serving an eclectic menu of local ingredients.
Taconic Orchards
591 Route 82, Hudson
518.851.7477
A short drive from Hudson, this farm stand is famous for its apple bounty in the fall.
West Taghkanic Diner
1016 State Route 82, Ancram
518.851.3333
A classic diner with a neon Indian sign, inviting travelers to relax and enjoy.
Babette’s Kitchen
3293 Franklin Avenue, Millbrook
845.677.8602
This popular eatery’s scratch cooking is inspired by fresh, local farm ingredients.
Quattro’s
2251 Route 44, Pleasant Valley
845.635.2018
An Italian farm store specializing in local poultry and game meats.
La Puerta Azul
2510 U.S. 44, Salt Point
845.677.2985
A grand celebration of Mexican cuisine, serving everything from empanadas to sangria margaritas, just off the Taconic.
Fishkill Farms
9 Fishkill Farms Road, Hopewell Junction
845.897.4377
Pick up homemade goods and fresh produce from this historic family farm, or enjoy apple picking in the fall.
Peter Pratts Inn
673 Croton Heights Road, Yorktown Heights
914.962.4090
Chef Jonathan Pratt transforms a Westchester colonial home into a culinary haven with innovative and satisfying dishes. The lobster ravioli and Moroccan lamburger are highly recommended.
LAST UPDATED: 7/13/22
[ Previous Article
City Winery Founder Michael Dorf on Making Bold Moves—from Major Cities to the Hudson Valley
](https://www.ediblehudsonvalley.com/2022/city-winery-founder-michael-dorf/)
[ Next Article
Kingston and the Kinsley
](https://www.ediblehudsonvalley.com/2022/kingston-and-the-kinsley/)
