Just a stone’s throw from the bustling Canal Street, a new culinary hotspot has emerged in the heart of Manhattan’s Chinatown. Mott Street Eatery, a recently unveiled food court at 98 Mott Street, is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for food lovers. While food courts are familiar sights in neighborhoods like Flushing, Sunset Park, and Elmhurst, this marks a significant first for Manhattan’s Chinatown – a dedicated space entirely devoted to a diverse array of food vendors. Stepping away from the traditional shopping mall food setups, Mott Street Eatery offers a concentrated and authentic taste of Chinatown’s vibrant food scene.
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Mott Street Eatery breathes new life into the space formerly occupied by Joy Luck Palace, a beloved Cantonese dim sum banquet hall that closed its doors nearly four years prior. This transformation introduces a fresh, contemporary dining experience while retaining a connection to Chinatown’s rich culinary heritage. The eatery comfortably accommodates around 100 guests across 12 tables and features a small stage, hinting at potential future events or performances. Currently, seven out of ten vendor stalls are active, promising even more culinary variety as it fully opens. Adding a touch of auspicious charm, potted plants adorned with festive ribbons are scattered throughout the space, creating a welcoming atmosphere.
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89 Eatery: A Legacy Reborn in Mott Street Eatery
The anchor tenant of Mott Street Eatery is undoubtedly 89 Eatery. Occupying a substantial space equivalent to four regular stalls, it’s cleverly separated from the main dining area by plexiglass partitions. This vendor effectively fills the void left by Joy Luck Palace, specializing in Cantonese classics. To the right, a mouthwatering display of roasted meats – ducks, chickens, and char siu – hangs enticingly. To the left, a tempting array of dim sum awaits, while golden youtiao pastries are presented in the center. 89 Eatery offers a comforting selection of dumplings, congee, and siu mei that echo the quality previously found at Joy Luck Palace.
During weekend afternoons, 89 Eatery buzzes with activity, drawing in crowds that fill the central seating area of Mott Street Eatery. Their roasted meat selection stands out as a highlight, arguably among the best and most diverse in Chinatown right now. Beyond the familiar crispy-skinned baby pig, honey-glazed char siu, and succulent roast duck, diners can discover an impressive variety of other roasted delights.
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Among the standout roasted meats is the pipa duck, a less common find, alongside pig’s ear, cuttlefish, and soy sauce chicken. Named after the pipa, a Chinese lute, this flattened duck boasts an incredibly crispy skin, almost like a potato chip, thanks to its dark, sweet glaze. While the “old country style chicken” might be milder in flavor, similar to Hainanese chicken, its firmer texture offers a different experience.
Patrons can enjoy these roasted meats over rice, choosing two, three, or four selections at affordable prices. For those seeking a more adventurous palate, the less common items are available by half or whole portions. The dim sum at 89 Eatery rivals the roasted meats in quality, kept warm in steamers and then efficiently packed into containers upon ordering. The rice noodle rolls, both shrimp and beef (with a hint of cilantro), are commendable, though subtly lacking in finesse. However, the shu mai, with a variety of fillings, and the crystal dumplings, filled with greens and shrimp in translucent wrappers, are exceptional. Even the braised chicken feet are notably tender. With around ten dim sum varieties available at any time, there’s plenty to explore. While the pork stomach and liver congee sampled was decent, it missed the distinctive green onion and ginger notes found in other renditions.
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Exploring Other Culinary Delights at Mott Street Eatery
Beyond 89 Eatery, six other stalls add to the diverse offerings of Mott Street Eatery, four of which are food-focused. Starting from the entrance and moving counterclockwise, Zhen Pin Café presents an array of bubble teas, ice cream, and baked goods. Currently, they serve coffee and a unique sweet drinkable yogurt, similar to an Indian lassi. This thick, white yogurt beverage is a must-try for its refreshing and unique flavor profile.
Next door, Domo Sushi offers an extensive sushi menu. Going beyond typical offerings, they feature premium ingredients like spot prawns, imported scallops, Maine sea urchin, and fatty bluefin tuna, often adorned with truffle shavings or salmon roe, positioning themselves at the higher end of the sushi spectrum. Helmed by Chef Jiro, who recently returned to NYC after experience in Tokyo and New York, Domo Sushi operates within a compact stall. The spicy scallop, caviar, and truffle hand roll, though priced at $20 and a little challenging to eat, is a fresh and flavorful indulgence. “The scallop is from Hokkaido,” Chef Jiro proudly shares. For a more immersive experience, omakase options are available at $70 and $100.
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Greeny’s Tea provides a quintessential Chinatown tea shop experience, albeit in a smaller setting. The amiable owner serves a range of teas, from familiar favorites to more unique varieties.
Burger Pizza Kwan specializes in an intriguing combination of – you guessed it – burgers and pizzas. Owned by B.P. Kwan, as indicated by a police foundation plaque, the pizzas are rectangular and feature classic tomato sauce and cheese bases. While the counter staff recommended the duck pizza ($12), the lobster pizza received was surprisingly tasty, despite minced lobster flakes somewhat lost in the cheese. The “house burger” ($15) features a well-cooked patty topped with a lobster puck, which didn’t particularly impress, suggesting the plain burger might be a safer and more satisfying choice.
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Tinnie Promotion Center, the next stall, lacks English signage beyond its name. Judging by the array of bottled and canned beverages, it appears to specialize in soft drinks and teas.
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Across the seating area, Icook A1 Kitchen presents a unique concept, focusing on kitchen appliances rather than food sales. Displaying contraptions resembling washing machines with large, shiny pipes, they demonstrated the devices’ ability to wash and steam produce simultaneously, offering complimentary steamed bok choy samples.
Mott Street Eatery: A Glimpse into Chinatown’s Future
Mott Street Eatery offers a compelling culinary adventure, blending familiar Chinatown flavors with unexpected surprises. It’s a destination not to be missed for anyone exploring Chinatown’s dynamic food scene. More than just a food court, Mott Street Eatery could represent a new model for Chinatown, potentially replacing traditional storefronts and becoming a vital part of the neighborhood’s evolving landscape.
Mott Street Eatery
98 Mott Street, Manhattan, NY 10013 Visit Website
