Mr. Beef, located on North Orleans Street in Chicago, isn’t your typical restaurant chasing accolades. In fact, Chris Zucchero, son of the late owner Joe, would reportedly refuse a James Beard Foundation award, seeing the establishment’s no-frills approach as inherently against the pretension of fine dining. This River North street food stand embodies a punk rock spirit, an ethos of authentic, unpretentious quality that sets it apart in Chicago’s rich culinary landscape.
Zucchero’s rebellious stance against fine dining extends to the very structure of high-end kitchens and the often-minimalist portions of tasting menus. However, he acknowledges his father, Joe Zucchero, who passed away in March 2023, would have advised him to accept any such honor gracefully. This contrast highlights the core identity of Mr. Beef: a place rooted in genuine food and a down-to-earth experience, rather than chasing culinary prestige. Mr. Beef operates outside the conventional restaurant hierarchy, much like the band Fugazi, which Zucchero references, thrived outside mainstream music labels in the 80s and 90s.
The stand’s reputation for authentic Chicago fare is underscored by a story involving legendary chef Charlie Trotter. Despite operating a celebrated fine-dining establishment in Lincoln Park, Trotter was a regular customer at Mr. Beef. Zucchero recounts a tourist’s anecdote where, after dining at Trotter’s restaurant, she complimented the chef on serving “real Chicago food.” Trotter, known for his strong personality, supposedly directed the customer to Mr. Beef for a truly genuine Chicago culinary experience, even writing down the address of the North Orleans Street institution. This anecdote speaks volumes about Mr. Beef’s standing within Chicago’s food scene, even acknowledged by its most celebrated chefs.
Chicago’s Italian beef stands are more than just eateries; they are local institutions often defined by the personalities behind them, like the Zuccheros at Mr. Beef. Al’s Beef, another iconic stand, shares a similar legacy, with owner Chris Pacelli recounting family stories from their early days serving sandwiches near the Chicago Medical District in the 1930s. Then there’s Dick Portillo, founder of the Portillo’s chain, which has expanded the reach of Chicago-style beef across America. Zucchero succinctly summarizes their impact: “Al’s created it, Mr. Beef made it popular across the country — even the world — and Dick Portillo put it on every corner in every state.”
While the sign above Mr. Beef on North Orleans Street states “since 1979,” its history traces back to the 1960s. Joe Zucchero purchased the stand from Carl Bonovolanto and his brother-in-law, Tony Ozzauto, who originally opened it in 1963, using recipes from Ozzauto’s mother, Mary. After selling the business to Zucchero, the original owners remained connected as landlords until Zucchero bought the River North building in the 1980s.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24514332/mrbeef.jpg)
Carl Bonovolanto Jr. still treasures the fork used in the early days of Mr. Beef, a tangible piece of the stand’s history. Courtesy of Carl Bonovolanto Jr.
Carl Bonovolanto Jr., son of the original owner, even worked at Mr. Beef after the transition to assist the new ownership. While Zucchero and Bonovolanto acknowledge a limited relationship between the families, they maintain a publicly cordial stance. Zucchero emphasizes that Mr. Beef truly came into its own under his father’s direction, forging a unique identity.
Bonovolanto Jr. admits a tinge of regret that his family didn’t retain the North Orleans Street location, as he was eager to be part of the family business. He possesses a bronzed fork, a memento of the original Mr. Beef, inscribed with “the fork that started it all.” The Bonovolanto family later opened their own establishment, the Original Mr. Beef, in Homer Glenn, but it faced closure in 2021 amidst the pandemic’s challenges to the restaurant industry. However, Bonovolanto Jr. has continued in the food business, now serving Italian beef at a sports bar in Homer Glenn called Mugshots.
The discussion around Mr. Beef and Italian beef inevitably leads to the topic of quality and authenticity. Bonovolanto Jr. stresses that crafting true Italian beef is an art, not easily replicated, despite the growing national interest sparked by shows like The Bear. His cousin, Carlo Buonovolanto, CEO of the Buona chain, agrees that Italian beef is finally receiving broader recognition. Buona, primarily located in the suburbs with a Chicago location in Streeterville, specializes in Italian beef and represents a larger scale approach to this Chicago classic.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24514334/Unknown_1.jpeg)
A glimpse into the past: Mr. Beef on North Orleans Street, Chicago, captured in a vintage photograph from the 1960s. Courtesy Carl Bonovolanto Jr.
Despite the growing popularity, both Bonovolantos are keen to maintain the distinction of Italian beef. They emphasize it’s not just roast beef, and certainly not comparable to a Philly cheesesteak. Carlo Buonavolanto details the meticulous three to four-day process involved in making authentic Italian beef: marinating, cooking, chilling, and slicing the top sirloin, culminating in the perfect sandwich. He criticizes shortcuts taken by some chains, particularly the separation of gravy preparation from the beef drippings, which compromises the rich, full flavor derived from the meat’s natural jus.
Bonovolanto Jr. recalls his father and uncle starting Mr. Beef in 1963 with just $16. His uncle passed away in 2014, and his father in May 2020. Bonovolanto Jr. expresses admiration for their legacy, feeling a responsibility to continue their work. “If it wasn’t for them two, I wouldn’t be doing what I was doing today,” he states, highlighting the enduring impact of the original Mr. Beef on North Orleans Street and its founders.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/24514331/Unknown_4.jpeg)
Carl Bonovolanto (far left) alongside his brother-in-law Tony Ozzauto and family members at the original Mr. Beef, showcasing the family roots of this Chicago culinary landmark. Courtesy of Carl Bonovolanto Jr.
Mr. Beef on North Orleans Street remains a testament to authentic Chicago cuisine, a place that values quality and tradition over fleeting trends. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most unassuming spots hold the richest stories and the most genuine flavors.
Update: Added information about the relationship between the Zucchero and Bonovolanto families.
Mr. Beef
666 N Orleans St, Chicago, IL 60654 (312) 337-6888
Buona
10633 South Western Avenue, Chicago, IL 60643 (773) 941-6980 Visit Website
