Peasant has long been a reliable dining spot, particularly for those seeking a solid Italian experience in Nolita. Before the rise of neighborhood hotspots like Rubirosa and Uncle Boons, Peasant was a frequent choice for its dependable menu. While newer establishments might draw attention with trendy dishes, Peasant holds its own with classic Italian fare prepared in a wood-burning oven. After some time away, a revisit was in order to assess if Peasant still maintains its quality and if its menu can compete with the newer culinary attractions nearby.
Recent visits reveal that Peasant attracts a more tourist-oriented and family-focused crowd than before. While the exact reasons for this shift are unclear, it doesn’t detract from the core appeal of Peasant. The food remains consistently good, especially when focusing on their signature dishes. The restaurant offers two distinct spaces: a subterranean wine room with a more intimate vibe and the street-level dining room, both sharing a warm, rustic atmosphere that sets the stage for hearty Italian meals cooked in their prominent wood-burning oven. Adding to the positive experience, Peasant boasts a well-priced wine list and a welcoming staff dedicated to providing excellent service to all guests.
Food Highlights at Peasant
Anchovy and Radish Salad
For those who appreciate the salty, savory notes of anchovies, the Anchovy and Radish Salad is a standout starter. This salad combines anchovies with fresh radishes, fennel, parsley, and crusty bread, creating a refreshing and flavorful combination that awakens the palate. The interplay of textures and tastes makes this salad a delightful beginning to any meal at Peasant.
Polpi In Purgatorio
The Polpi In Purgatorio, or baby octopus in purgatory, is a must-try dish that exemplifies Peasant’s wood-burning oven cooking. Served directly from the oven in a cast iron pot, the baby octopus is tender and flavorful, simmered in a rich and slightly spicy tomato sauce. The presentation alone is captivating, and the dish delivers on both visual and culinary appeal.
Spaghetti Vongole
A benchmark of Italian cuisine, Peasant’s Spaghetti Vongole is a perfect rendition of this classic pasta dish. The spaghetti is cooked al dente, tossed with a generous amount of fresh clams, garlic, white wine, and a hint of chili flakes for a subtle kick. The balance of flavors and perfectly cooked pasta make this dish a satisfying and quintessential Italian experience.
Gnocchi con Funghi
Another pasta highlight is the Gnocchi con Funghi. These homemade gnocchi, soft and pillowy, are paired with a medley of mushrooms and peas in a delicate sauce. It’s a rich yet comforting dish that showcases the quality of Peasant’s pasta and the skillful combination of earthy and sweet flavors. This gnocchi dish is among the best available in New York City and is highly recommended.
Agnello Con Polenta
The Agnello Con Polenta is a signature dish at Peasant, particularly well-suited for colder weather. It features a leg of lamb, slow-roasted in the wood-burning oven until incredibly tender, served atop creamy polenta. The combination of the savory, roasted lamb and the smooth polenta is both hearty and comforting, making it an ideal choice for a satisfying and warming meal. Paired with a robust red wine, this dish is a true indulgence.
Razza Con Capperi
Potentially the best overall offering at Peasant, the Razza Con Capperi is a generous serving of skate wing cooked in a cast iron pan. Topped with crispy breadcrumbs and served with a lemon-caper butter sauce, the skate is cooked to perfection, remaining moist and flaky. What sets this dish apart is the subtle use of the butter sauce, which enhances rather than overpowers the delicate flavor of the fish. The focus remains on the expertly cooked skate, making this dish a standout and highly recommended choice.
Final Thoughts on Peasant
Peasant on Elizabeth Street remains a strong contender in Nolita’s vibrant dining scene. While it may have gained popularity with a broader audience, the quality of its Italian cuisine, particularly dishes from the wood-burning oven, remains consistently high. From the Anchovy and Radish Salad to the Razza Con Capperi, Peasant offers a range of well-executed dishes in a warm and inviting setting. Whether for a family dinner or a casual Italian meal, Peasant continues to be a reliable and enjoyable choice on Elizabeth Street.
