Siem Reap, Cambodia, is globally renowned as the gateway to the magnificent Angkor temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a testament to the grandeur of the Khmer empire. But beyond the ancient stones and captivating history, Siem Reap offers a different kind of allure as the sun sets – the vibrant and energetic Pub Street. On our first full day in Cambodia, we experienced this fascinating duality, immersing ourselves in the awe-inspiring temples by day and the dazzling nightlife of Pub Street as evening approached. It’s a contrast that defines Siem Reap, making it a truly unforgettable destination.
We began our day with a hearty breakfast at Diamond D’Angkor, our comfortable hotel, fueling up for a day of exploration. A pre-booked tuk-tuk, arranged for a reasonable $20 for the entire day, awaited us. Our friendly driver efficiently navigated us to the Angkor Park Pass ticket office where we purchased our three-day passes for $40 each, granting us access to this sprawling historical park. Ready to delve into the heart of Khmer history, we set off towards the iconic temple complex.
Our itinerary for the day focused on the ‘Big Three’ temples: Ta Prohm, Angkor Thom (including Bayon Temple), and Angkor Wat. These are arguably the most famous and visually striking temples within the Angkor complex, and naturally, they attract the largest crowds. As we arrived at each location, we were met by local children and teenagers offering guidebooks and guided tours, eager to share their knowledge and culture.
Ta Prohm: Where Nature Reclaims History
Ta Prohm was our first stop, and it immediately captivated us with its unique atmosphere. Of the three temples, Ta Prohm is the smallest and perhaps the easiest to explore. Its defining characteristic is the powerful presence of nature. Massive trees have grown directly into and over the temple structures, their enormous roots snaking down stone walls and embracing fallen blocks of sandstone.
Despite the powerful encroachment of the jungle, many sections of Ta Prohm remain remarkably preserved. Long corridors lined with dignified pillars and intricate stone carvings of goddesses offer glimpses into the temple’s former splendor. The juxtaposition of nature and ancient architecture creates a surreal and enchanting atmosphere. Walking through Ta Prohm, it’s easy to feel like an explorer discovering a lost city, even with other tourists around. It’s certainly hard to resist capturing a photo amidst the iconic tree roots.
Angkor Thom and the Enigmatic Faces of Bayon Temple
Next, we ventured into Angkor Thom, which is not a temple itself, but the site of a vast ancient capital city of the Khmer Empire. Today, within Angkor Thom’s walls, various temples and monuments stand scattered across a large area, interspersed with fields and forests. Navigating Angkor Thom would be challenging without the maps placed throughout the site. Even with them, orienting ourselves proved a bit tricky.
Our tuk-tuk driver dropped us off at the entrance to Bayon Temple, the most famous temple within Angkor Thom. Bayon’s fame is well-deserved, stemming from its hundreds of colossal stone faces. These serene and imposing faces are carved into the many towers of the temple, watching over visitors from every direction with their enigmatic smiles.
While both Ta Prohm and Bayon are unique and somewhat mysterious temples, they evoke different feelings. Ta Prohm conveys a sense of delicate beauty and the ephemeral nature of time, while Bayon emanates strength and a powerful, almost brutal grandeur.
Bayon’s multi-level structure and repeating faces created a labyrinthine feel. It was easy to lose track of where we were and what we had already seen within the temple complex.
After finally finding our way out of Bayon and re-orienting ourselves with a map, we explored other monuments within Angkor Thom. My personal highlight was Baphuon Temple, a pyramid-like structure reached via a striking elevated stone walkway cutting through the surrounding trees.
Climbing the steep stone steps inside Baphuon to reach its peak rewarded us with a spectacular panoramic view of Angkor Park stretching out below.
Refreshing Lunch Amidst Ancient Wonders
Incredibly, we managed to reconnect with our tuk-tuk driver near the Elephant Terrace at the opposite end of Angkor Thom. He then took us to a nearby outdoor café sheltered by a large canopy for a much-needed lunch break. My fried yellow noodle dish, though its exact ingredients remained a mystery, was absolutely delicious. Steve’s beef Lok Lak also earned high praise.
The mango shake I ordered was heavenly – an icy, smooth concoction that felt like a gift from above in the tropical heat. My only regret was not ordering another one immediately; a regret that lingered throughout the afternoon and led to a quest for more mango shakes, none of which quite matched the perfection of that first one.
The only minor annoyance during our otherwise delightful lunch was the swarm of wasps that seemed intent on sharing our meal. We devised a temporary solution by trapping as many wasps as possible inside Steve’s soda can, which they found utterly irresistible, providing us with a brief respite.
Angkor Wat: Iconic but Perhaps Overhyped?
Our temple tour continued to Angkor Wat, perhaps Cambodia’s most iconic Khmer temple and the subject of countless sunrise photographs.
However, after the wonders we had already witnessed, Angkor Wat, while undeniably impressive, didn’t quite have the same impact. Compared to the whimsical Ta Prohm and the imposing Bayon, Angkor Wat seemed grand and beautiful but somewhat less unique. Though, in fairness, my slightly underwhelmed reaction could have been due to the intense heat and exhaustion I was feeling at that point, longing only for air conditioning.
We walked the long causeway leading to the main temple, climbed the steep steps to the central sanctuary, and peered at the various Buddha statues housed inside. I particularly related to the reclining Buddha, feeling equally ready for a nap. The windows at the upper level offered impressive views over the lower courtyards of Angkor Wat and the lush green jungle beyond.
Sunset Disappointment at Phnom Bakheng
Our final temple stop for the day was Phnom Bakheng, recommended by our driver as a prime sunset viewing spot. The climb up to the temple was quite a trek, followed by a climb up some rather steep stairs to reach the summit. We joined a sizable crowd already gathered at the top, hoping for a spectacular sunset show. It was a lovely sight to see a group of monks in their orange robes also there to enjoy the view.
Unfortunately, after waiting for about an hour, it became clear that heavy cloud cover would prevent any significant sunset. The temple security personnel confirmed our suspicions, announcing that there would be no sunset and began directing everyone back down the mountain.
Pub Street Siem Reap: Neon Lights and Nightlife Buzz
Having explored the ancient wonders of Angkor all day, we were ready for a different kind of Siem Reap experience: Pub Street. We had been anticipating our Pub Street adventure almost as much as the temple tour. Finding Pub Street is impossible to miss. Emerging from the quieter, dustier streets, it bursts into view like a beacon of neon light and sound.
Pub Street’s name is boldly proclaimed in large neon signs overhead, and the sounds of pulsing music and lively chatter spill out onto the surrounding streets. Even the mobile carts of street vendors here are equipped with their own music and light displays, adding to the vibrant atmosphere.
While the streets around Pub Street are mostly frequented by locals, this single street is predominantly filled with tourists from all corners of the globe, many conversing in English. We were offered flyers promoting backpacker-oriented pub crawls by friendly promoters from Australia and America, highlighting the international appeal of Pub Street.
Faced with an overwhelming array of choices, we selected our first bar based on the most compelling factor for budget travelers: beer price. We settled at the first bar on the left side of Pub Street, drawn in by the promise of pints for just 25 cents during happy hour! We took a seat at a high table outside, and a waitress promptly brought our beers. The beer was simple and unpretentious, but perfectly refreshing and incredibly cheap.
Directly across from us, a large, open-fronted bar pulsed with flashing lights and a dance floor. The music blasting from its speakers was a nostalgic mix of 90s pop hits. Watching a lively hen party energetically dancing to the Spice Girls’ “Wannabe,” it felt like stepping into a time machine back to Britain 20 years ago, showcasing the global appeal and timeless party vibe of Pub Street.
Continuing our exploration down Pub Street, we paused to browse menus and soak in the atmosphere before choosing another bar. This time, we opted for a more relaxed, open-air venue decorated with cushions and charming, slightly kitschy décor. We ordered two Khmer curries, which were decent enough but not particularly memorable.
Next on our Pub Street bar crawl was a quest for cocktails. We headed to Khmer Kitchen, known for its budget-friendly drinks, and I indulged in a delicious Long Island Iced Tea for a mere $1.75. As a testament to the potent sweetness (or perhaps just the tropical climate), a giant moth swooped in to finish off the last drops of my cocktail after I was done.
Angkor What?: Leaving Your Mark on Pub Street
Our final destination on Pub Street was Angkor What?, a bar recommended by a friend. Drinks here were a bit pricier than the earlier venues, but Angkor What? offers a unique and interactive gimmick: customers are encouraged to write on absolutely everything – the walls, the tables, even the ceilings. The entire bar is covered in layers of scribbled messages, drawings, and signatures left by travelers from around the world.
We ordered our drinks – spirits and mixers – and grabbed a black marker, adding our own contributions to the ever-evolving tapestry of graffiti. I even managed to sneak in some subtle self-promotion for this blog, leaving our mark on Pub Street alongside countless others.
Nicely tipsy after our Pub Street exploration, we walked back to our hotel, already looking forward to the next day’s adventure: a trip further afield to discover the jungle temple of Beng Melea, promising another day of contrasting Cambodian experiences.
