Shifen Old Street (十分老街), nestled along the historic Pingxi Railway Line, is a captivating village that draws visitors from across the globe. Renowned for its unique tradition of releasing sky lanterns, Shifen offers an immersive cultural experience in the heart of Taiwan. This guide will delve into everything you need to know to plan your visit, from transportation and must-try local eats to eco-friendly lantern options and alternatives for a less crowded experience.
Discovering the History and Charm of Shifen Old Street
The name “Shifen,” meaning “ten portions,” originates from the area’s early days when ten families resided here and requested ten shares of supplies. Similarly, the nearby Jiufen Old Street, another popular destination often combined with a Shifen visit, translates to “nine portions.”
Located in the Pingxi District of New Taipei City, Shifen sits at the midpoint of the Pingxi Railway Line. Constructed by the Japanese in 1918, this railway initially served to transport coal from the Pingxi Valley mines, fostering the growth of several mining towns along its route, including Shifen.
While coal mining ceased in 1971, Shifen and its neighboring towns transitioned into popular tourist destinations in the early 1990s.
The tradition of releasing sky lanterns, known as tiandeng (天燈), traces its roots back to China’s Fujian province, the ancestral homeland of many Taiwanese people. In the mid-19th century, during times of banditry in Pingxi, villagers would use sky lanterns as signals to notify those in the mountains that it was safe to come down to the train station area for supplies, typically around the Lantern Festival.
Over time, this practice evolved into a custom of writing wishes on the lanterns and releasing them skyward, believing they would carry prayers to the heavens. Furthermore, the sound of tiandeng is phonetically similar to “have a baby boy” in Taiwanese Hokkien, making lantern releases a popular tradition for newlyweds.
Today, Shifen Old Street is a vibrant hub where visitors can partake in this tradition year-round. It also serves as a focal point for the renowned Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival, a spectacular event held annually on the 15th day of the first lunar month, attracting tens of thousands of visitors. This festival, often celebrated on two Saturdays closest to the actual date, alternates locations between Shifen and Pingxi stations.
Navigating Your Way to Shifen Old Street
Reaching Shifen Old Street is convenient via car, train, or bus, each offering a unique perspective of the surrounding landscape.
By Car
A drive from Taipei to Shifen takes approximately one hour, depending on your starting point in Taipei and traffic conditions. Opting for National Freeway 1 heading east towards Keelung and then south to Shifen is a direct route.
For a more scenic journey, consider a slower route through Shenkeng, Shiding, and Pingxi. This allows for stops at attractions like Shenkeng Old Street, Hsu’s Hand-Pulled Noodles, and the Jingtong or Pingxi train stations before arriving at Shifen.
Parking is available near Shifen Old Street. Having a car also makes it easy to visit the nearby Shifen Waterfall, a 20-minute drive away. You can enjoy a pleasant 20-minute walk from a parking lot to the waterfall, crossing suspension bridges along a riverside path, or opt for a shorter 5-minute drop-off closer to the falls.
By Train
The train offers a scenic and efficient way to reach Shifen. A 45-minute train ride east from Taipei Main Station will bring you to Ruifang Station, a major transportation hub in the area. Upon arriving at Ruifang Station on Platform 1 or 2, transfer to Platform 3 to catch the Pingxi Line train heading south and then west to Shifen. The journey from Ruifang to Shifen takes approximately 27 to 31 minutes.
Consider combining your Shifen trip with a visit to Jiufen Old Street, a mere 10-minute bus ride from Ruifang Station. Jiufen is best explored in the late morning to avoid peak afternoon crowds. Shifen, with its more open layout, tends to feel less crowded even during peak hours.
Most trains to Ruifang and all trains on the Pingxi Line are local trains, allowing you to board using an EasyCard without seat reservations. However, these trains can get crowded, especially during peak travel times. A few express trains (Puyuma Express or Tze Chiang 3000) run from Taipei to Ruifang but require seat reservations.
Remember to swipe your EasyCard when exiting Shifen Station. Train schedules can be found on the Taiwan Railways Administration website or via their mobile app.
By Bus
An alternative, and often overlooked, route to Shifen is by bus. Bus 795 departs from Muzha MRT Station and takes about 1.5 hours to reach Shifen at a cost of TWD 45. Consult Google Maps or the Bus+ app for real-time schedules. EasyCard is accepted for bus fares.
While potentially slightly slower than the train depending on your starting point in Taipei, the bus journey offers a comfortable ride, especially if you secure a seat. However, buses can get crowded on weekends, holidays, and during peak tourist seasons.
The bus route to Shifen passes several noteworthy stops, including Shenkeng Old Street (renowned for stinky tofu), Jingtong Station, Pingxi Station, Lingjiao Station, and Wanggu Station. After Shifen Old Street, the bus continues to Shifen Visitor’s Center, the final stop, ideal for those planning to visit Shifen Waterfall first.
Walking to Shifen Waterfall
From Shifen Old Street, Shifen Waterfall is accessible via a scenic 30-minute walk. As you walk along Shifen Old Street, the road forks, marking the end of the main Old Street section. Both paths lead towards Shifen Waterfall.
The walking path follows the river, offering views of smaller waterfalls and passing Pingxi Line trains. Note that the path includes stairs and may not be fully wheelchair accessible. Alternatively, a quieter vehicle road provides a wheelchair-friendly route and can also be used for a shorter walk from a drop-off point to the waterfall viewing platforms.
Guided Tours and Private Drivers for Shifen Exploration
For visitors wanting to maximize their day trip from Taipei and explore Shifen alongside other regional attractions, guided tours and private drivers offer convenient options.
Popular day tours often combine Shifen Old Street and Shifen Waterfall with nearby highlights like Golden Waterfall, Jiufen Old Street, and Yehliu Geopark. These tours streamline transportation and allow for efficient sightseeing.
Options range from standard itineraries to specialized tours including activities like pastry making, visits to Heping Island in Keelung, or hotel pick-up services in Taipei and Ximending areas.
For a personalized experience and flexible itinerary, consider hiring a private driver. This allows you to customize your route, set your own pace, and explore Shifen and surrounding areas at your leisure.
Accommodation Options Near Shifen Old Street
Overnight stays in Shifen are not common, and generally not recommended. While Shifen Old Street and sky lanterns are charming, the village primarily caters to day visitors. After 7 PM, most shops and restaurants close, and the village becomes very quiet. Even the local FamilyMart closes relatively early at 10:30 PM.
Accommodation options in Shifen are limited. Pingxi Car Head B&B and Very Happy Guesthouse are among the few available choices, offering basic lodging. For a wider selection of accommodations, consider staying in nearby Jiufen or Taipei, both offering a greater variety of hotels and guesthouses.
Experiencing Shifen Old Street
Shifen Old Street itself is compact, stretching approximately 300 meters. A visit of one hour or less is sufficient to explore the street and release a sky lantern. If you plan to include Shifen Waterfall, allocate an additional 90 minutes, for a total visit of 2 to 2.5 hours.
Upon exiting Shifen train station on the north side, Shifen Old Street unfolds directly ahead. At the street’s entrance, you can cross the train tracks to reach Jingan Suspension Bridge, a popular spot for photographs.
Along both sides of the train tracks, you’ll find souvenir shops, numerous sky lantern vendors (over 30!), and small eateries. Souvenir shops offer typical Taiwanese souvenirs alongside region-specific items like Spirited Away merchandise (linked to the nearby Jiufen myth) and miniature sky lantern decorations.
Walking and crossing the train tracks is permitted throughout most of Shifen Old Street, but always exercise caution and be mindful of approaching trains.
The main section of Shifen Old Street concludes where the paths alongside the train tracks diverge. A few additional shops and restaurants can be found further along these paths, which also lead to Shifen Waterfall.
The Sky Lantern Release Tradition
Releasing sky lanterns is the quintessential Shifen experience. Despite environmental concerns raised by various groups regarding the impact of lantern debris, this tradition remains deeply popular with tourists.
Each month, approximately 30,000 lanterns are released in Shifen. These lanterns, after their flames extinguish, descend back to earth, often landing in forests, trees, or power lines, posing potential fire hazards. The lanterns contain metal and plastic components and harmful dyes.
For those wishing to participate in this cultural practice responsibly, consider choosing eco-friendly sky lanterns.
Standard sky lanterns in Shifen are priced around TWD 200 (single color), TWD 250 (four colors), or TWD 350 (eight colors). The price includes assistance in writing your wishes on the lantern and lighting it for release.
Each lantern color carries symbolic meanings, as displayed in many shops, allowing you to choose colors aligning with your wishes. For comprehensive blessings, opt for the eight-color lantern.
It’s recommended to have at least two people to hold the lantern during lighting. Once released, the lantern ascends rapidly, so be ready with cameras to capture the moment.
Eco-Friendly Sky Lantern Options
For a slightly higher price of around TWD 450, you can opt for an environmentally friendly sky lantern at Shifen Old Street. These lanterns are designed to completely burn up mid-air, leaving no debris to fall back to the ground.
Developed by graduates from National Yang Ming Chiao Tung University in Hsinchu in collaboration with local lantern artisans like Shifen resident Lin Guo-he, these eco-lanterns utilize biodegradable materials, including bamboo and paper pulp. Lin Guo-he, who learned lantern making from his father, continues to craft and sell these sustainable lanterns at Yiqiao Traditional Sky Lantern Shop, located at the end of Shifen Old Street.
These eco-friendly lanterns feature a five-sided design and, being lighter, are said to ascend higher, reaching altitudes of 200 to 250 meters before complete combustion, compared to the 50 to 100-meter ascent of regular lanterns before descent.
Yiqiao Traditional Sky Lantern Shop is recognizable by its storefront and the friendly owners, Lin Guo-he and his wife, who are happy to share information about their eco-conscious lanterns. Another shop on the left side of Shifen Old Street also offers these eco-friendly options.
Visiting During the Lantern Festival
Shifen Old Street reaches peak activity levels during the Lantern Festival period. While the festival falls on the 15th day of the Lunar New Year (typically in February or early March), the entire Pingxi area experiences heightened tourism for weeks surrounding the event.
The Pingxi Mass Lantern Releases, a highlight of the festival, usually occur on the two Saturdays closest to the Lantern Festival date. One release is typically held near Shifen, and the other near Pingxi station.
During these mass release events, thousands of sky lanterns are launched simultaneously every 15 minutes throughout the evening.
This event draws massive crowds, making it one of the most densely populated events in Taiwan. The Pingxi Line trains become extremely crowded; consider using shuttle buses from Muzha MRT as an alternative. Expect queues for transportation to and from the event.
Participation in the timed mass releases requires early registration. However, visitors can still come to observe the spectacle or release their own lanterns independently throughout the area.
While crowd levels were somewhat reduced in 2023 due to lingering COVID-related travel impacts, the 2024 festival and subsequent years are expected to see a return to pre-pandemic crowd sizes.
Culinary Delights at Shifen Old Street
Shifen Old Street offers a variety of small eateries and food stalls catering to tourists. While food quality may be considered average for Taiwan, and prices slightly elevated, there are still some local snacks worth trying.
Popular food options include rice-stuffed chicken wings, deep-fried seafood like cuttlefish, river shrimps, and river crabs, and stinky tofu (one vendor is particularly recommended).
You can also find soup dumplings, peanut brittle cilantro ice cream wraps, and local flavor popsicles such as kiwi, roselle, and plum.
Near Shifen Waterfall, vendors sell sausages, grilled mushrooms, and cold drinks.
For a broader and potentially more affordable culinary experience, consider waiting until a visit to Jiufen Old Street, which boasts a wider variety of unique foods and dining options.
Exploring Alternatives to Shifen Old Street
While Shifen Old Street is a must-see for many, its popularity can lead to overcrowding. For those seeking a less tourist-heavy experience, several alternatives in the vicinity offer similar charms.
Pingxi Old Street, just a 13-minute train ride further on the Pingxi Line, presents a more local atmosphere, attracting more Taiwanese visitors than international tourists. Sky lanterns can also be released at Pingxi Station. For adventurous visitors, Pingxi Crags hikes offer thrilling trails accessible from Pingxi.
Jingtong Old Street, the final stop on the Pingxi Line, is the smallest but arguably the most charming and tranquil of the old streets along the railway. Sky lantern releases are also possible here.
Jiufen Old Street, though even more popular than Shifen, offers a richer experience with greater variety, superior food options, historic teahouses, stunning Pacific Ocean views, and a more atmospheric ambiance.
Shenkeng Old Street, closer to Taipei, is favored by local tourists for its numerous stinky tofu stalls and well-preserved old buildings. Consider stopping here when traveling by bus from Muzha MRT to Shifen.
For waterfall enthusiasts, numerous other waterfalls along the Pingxi Line offer alternatives to Shifen Waterfall.
Shifen Old Street provides a unique glimpse into Taiwanese culture and tradition, particularly through the captivating practice of releasing sky lanterns. While it can be crowded, especially during peak seasons and the Lantern Festival, its historical significance, charming atmosphere, and accessible location make it a worthwhile destination for any visitor to Taiwan. Remember to consider eco-friendly lantern options and explore nearby alternatives for a more diverse and sustainable travel experience in the Pingxi region.
