New York City is a global epicenter for culinary excellence, boasting an overwhelming number of sushi restaurants offering the coveted Omakase experience. Yet, within this crowded landscape, only a select few establishments manage to capture the buzz and become whispered recommendations among discerning food connoisseurs. These are the destinations reserved for truly special occasions, where diners willingly invest $300 or more (reaching heights of $600 at Masa) for an unparalleled culinary journey. Shion 69 Leonard Street has firmly established itself within this elite echelon, a testament to its exceptional quality and unique dining experience.
Despite its proximity to my own neighborhood and regular workouts across the street, I hadn’t had the opportunity to visit Shion 69 Leonard Street since its opening four years prior. That is, until recently.
A beautifully plated dish at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing culinary artistry.
From Ichimura to Shion: An Evolving Culinary Legacy at 69 Leonard Street
The space at 69 Leonard Street has a rich and evolving history within the NYC sushi scene. Initially opening its doors in January 2017 as Ichimura, the restaurant was helmed by the legendary Eiji Ichimura. Ichimura, a name synonymous with sushi innovation in New York, had previously led the acclaimed eponymous sushiya at Brushstroke. His influence, alongside the documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” and the rise of visual platforms like Instagram, is widely credited with sparking the sushi revolution in NYC. I had the pleasure of reviewing Ichimura at Brushstroke back in 2012, witnessing firsthand his culinary mastery.
However, by June 2017, Ichimura moved on, paving the way for Derek Wilcox, a New York City native with extensive experience in respected Japanese restaurants. Under Wilcox, the renamed Shoji at 69 Leonard Street flourished for over three years. Wilcox’s tenure saw him artfully blending kyo-kaiseki elements with edomae-style nigiri at the Omakase counter, garnering widespread acclaim and solidifying the restaurant’s reputation for culinary excellence. His departure earlier this year, to relocate to Los Angeles, marked a natural transition point, as owner Idan Elkon explained, particularly given the shifts brought about by the pandemic.
Chef Shion Uino expertly preparing sushi at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing his dedication to craft.
Welcoming Shion Uino: Ushering in a New Era of Omakase
In May 2021, Shion Uino took the reins, ushering in the restaurant’s current iteration as Shion at 69 Leonard Street. For seasoned sushi diners, Uino-San is a familiar name, recognized from his time at Sushi Amane, the midtown-east gem renowned for its hushed accolades, and his formative years at the revered Tokyo sushi institution, Sushi Saito. His arrival signals a significant chapter for 69 Leonard Street, building upon its established legacy while introducing a fresh perspective.
While the restaurant’s history suggests a pattern of rotating Itamae and name changes, owner Idan Elkon envisions a long-term partnership with Chef Uino, emphasizing the permanence of this current direction. Looking ahead, there are even exciting discussions about potentially opening a more casual bar in the basement space, serving small, delectable bites and “Chinmi”.
For those unfamiliar, Chinmi refers to a category of rare and exquisite delicacies. The term Tenka No Sandai Chinmi, or “Three Great Chinmi of the Realm,” often surfaces, referencing the Edo period’s (17th-19th centuries) most prized delicacies: Uni (Sea Urchin), Konowata (Sea Cucumber intestines), and Karasumi (salted mullet roe). Sampling these represents a unique culinary bingo experience, a deep dive into traditional Japanese flavors.
Uino-san’s culinary approach brings a distinctive style to Shion 69 Leonard Street. Echoing techniques employed by other esteemed itamae, including Takashi Saito himself, Uino prioritizes aging his fish to enhance its flavor and texture. Similar to Saito-san’s approach, you’ll observe Uino’s remarkably efficient nigiri preparation. With just two swift flips and placements, the nigiri is formed – a testament to masterful technique. As Kikuo Shimizu articulates in his influential book, ‘Edomae Sushi’, “there’s no one royal road” to crafting nigiri. Yet, the sheer speed and precision hold a captivating element, perhaps appealing to my own inclination for efficiency.
Chef Shion Uino meticulously crafting Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, highlighting the artistry and precision of sushi making.
The Ambiance and Clientele: A Glimpse into NYC’s High-End Dining Scene
The atmosphere at Shion 69 Leonard Street adds another layer to the overall experience. If you’re familiar with the sushi scene depicted in the show Billions – and given my frequent references on Instagram and my blog, you likely are – you’ll recognize the type of clientele you can expect to encounter at the nine-seat counter. To put it simply, if the creators of Billions were filming a Wagstaff-centric sushi scene in 2021, Shion at 69 Leonard – not Nakazawa – would undoubtedly be their chosen backdrop.
During my solo dining experience, the other seven guests comprised a mix of tourists, finance professionals, and a well-known NYC food writer accompanied by their partner and a substantial camera setup. The energy was convivial and respectful. However, an unexpected moment arose when I overheard the phrase, “imagine if Chipotle had this rice,” a comment that underscored the diverse perspectives one encounters even in the most refined dining settings.
A refreshing palate cleanser at Shion 69 Leonard Street, an interlude in the omakase journey.
Delving into the Omakase: A Culinary Journey at Shion 69 Leonard Street
The Omakase at Shion 69 Leonard Street unfolds over 18 courses, with the initial six – the Otsumami – taking center stage in terms of time and preparation, spanning approximately 90 minutes. Arrive hungry, but not overly so, to fully appreciate the progression of flavors and textures.
While sous-chef Hiroto Ochiai skillfully manages the kitchen and the cooked dishes, the Omakase experience is undeniably the Shion Uino show. Despite the attentive service staff, Uino-san personally handles virtually every aspect of the sushi preparation: from meticulously prepping each nigiri to serving each piece directly to the diners. Remarkably, he even takes a nigiri back to the kitchen periodically to ensure the rice maintains its optimal quality throughout the evening.
The focus on aging fish is immediately apparent. The first course, Sashimi, features both 5-day and 15-day aged Karei (Flat Fish), visually demonstrating the transformation over time – the darker hue indicating the longer aging period.
A helpful note: Karei can refer to various types of Flounder. The selection presented was hoshigarei, a highly prized summer neta that sushi authority Shimizu-san considers “the very finest flounder.” A sentiment I wholeheartedly concur with.
Sashimi course at Shion 69 Leonard Street, featuring aged Karei (Flat Fish) and Tsubugai, showcasing the restaurant's focus on aged fish.
Managatsuo dish at Shion 69 Leonard Street, highlighting the variety of seafood offered in the omakase.
Uni trio at Shion 69 Leonard Street, a testament to the restaurant's premium ingredient sourcing and presentation.
Murasaki Uni from Miyagi prefecture at Shion 69 Leonard Street, emphasizing the origin and quality of ingredients.
Omakase Standouts: Memorable Dishes from Shion Uino’s Menu
While photos can only partially capture the experience, the Tako, marinated for an impressive 48 hours, was a definite standout. The delicate skin around the octopus meat, barely clinging on, melted away in the mouth, a testament to perfect preparation. For those who find octopus to be too chewy, this dish, along with similar preparations I’ve encountered in seaside Montenegrin gems, exemplifies the transformative power of skilled chefs in elevating this ingredient.
Tako dish at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing expertly prepared octopus with delicate texture.
Kegani dish at Shion 69 Leonard Street, a flavorful crab salad presented in its shell.
Uino’s Kegani – another crowd-pleaser – is best described as a refined ‘crab salad’, though that comparison drastically understates its sophistication. Kegani, or Hairy Crab, is a prized delicacy from northern Japan. Uino meticulously breaks down the crab, boils it, blends it with vinegar, and then artfully returns it to its shell. This preparation echoes the style of his former mentor at Sushi Saito.
In comparison, Sushi Ikumi, where I dined just two nights prior, also featured Kegani, but with a broader base incorporating Ikura and Japanese watercress, showcasing a different yet equally delightful approach.
Amadai dish at Shion 69 Leonard Street, featuring tilefish with daikon radish.
Japanese Flounder Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, highlighting the restaurant's focus on fresh, seasonal fish.
Shima Aji Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing the variety of premium fish in the omakase.
Shiro Amadai Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, featuring white tilefish in nigiri form.
Akami Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing tuna in its lean and flavorful form.
O Toro Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, featuring the prized fatty tuna belly.
Aori-ika Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing squid in a delicate nigiri presentation.
Nodoguro Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, featuring blackthroat seaperch in a nigiri course.
Aji Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, showcasing horse mackerel in a nigiri format.
Anago Nigiri at Shion 69 Leonard Street, featuring sea eel in a nigiri presentation.
Special Temaki at Shion 69 Leonard Street, a hand roll with a surprise filling.
Miso Soup at Shion 69 Leonard Street, a comforting and traditional course.
Tamago at Shion 69 Leonard Street, a sweet egg omelet marking the end of the omakase.
Tamago Course at Shion 69 Leonard Street, the traditional sweet egg omelet served as a dessert.
Final Verdict: Shion 69 Leonard Street – A Must-Visit Omakase Destination
As expected for a dining experience priced at $420 (tip included!), nearly every ingredient at Shion 69 Leonard Street is both seasonal and sourced directly from Japan. While importing from Japan is increasingly common among high-end sushiya in New York and beyond, Shion 69 Leonard Street distinguishes itself through the exceptional variety of Neta and Otsumami offered. The menu, which evolves almost daily, including a la carte options after the Omakase concludes, is sure to impress even the most jaded palate.
Beyond the impeccable ingredients, you are investing in an evening within a beautifully designed space, witnessing the waza (technical skill) of Chef Uino-san firsthand. He continues to build a strong reputation among sushi aficionados, discerning tourists, and even the finance crowd. Shion 69 Leonard Street unquestionably stands as a sushiya that rivals the very best in New York City.
Highly Recommended.
