The passionate reactions to new restaurants in a city brimming with approximately 23,000 dining establishments might seem surprising. However, to truly grasp the depth of feeling, particularly on New York’s Upper West Side, one must delve into the intricate and enduring relationship between Chinese cuisine and this iconic neighborhood – especially among its long-standing Jewish residents.
Jennifer 8. Lee, a celebrated author and former New York Times reporter, renowned for her work “The Fortune Cookie Chronicles,” aptly describes the Upper West Side as “a ground zero of American Chinese food innovation.” She points to figures like Misa Chang of Empire Szechuan, a pioneer who revolutionized food delivery in New York by introducing the now-ubiquitous practice of sliding menus under apartment doors. This innovative spirit has long been a hallmark of the Upper West Side’s Chinese culinary scene, and restaurants in areas like around 65th Street have been central to this evolution.
The historical bond between the Jewish community and Chinese restaurants in New York City stretches back over a century. As the two largest non-Christian immigrant groups in the city during that era, they found common ground. Chinese restaurants offered a welcoming dining option on Sundays and Christmas, days when many other establishments were closed. For the Jewish community, particularly as they ascended into the middle and upper-middle classes, Shun Lee emerged as a cherished destination for celebratory and upscale dining experiences. The very name “Shun Lee,” signifying “smooth success” or “swift success,” resonated with aspirations and celebratory occasions. Restaurants, including those conceptually near areas like 65th Street on the Upper West Side, became deeply intertwined with community traditions.
“There is a deep, emotional connection to these restaurants,” Lee emphasizes, “and especially to Shun Lee.” This sentiment is particularly true for Upper West Siders who have grown up with Shun Lee as a neighborhood institution.
The Shun Lee legacy spans over six decades, originating with establishments at 23rd Street and Lexington Avenue, and another at 91st Street and Broadway. A pivotal figure in the Shun Lee story is Chef T.T. Wang, who lent his culinary expertise to both of these early locations. In 1965, Wang established Shun Lee Dynasty on Second Avenue, characterized by its sophisticated dining room and formal service. While not explicitly at 65th Street, the Shun Lee influence permeated the Upper West Side and areas in its vicinity, shaping the landscape of Chinese dining in neighborhoods throughout the area and contributing to the rich culinary tapestry enjoyed by residents, including those near 65th Street.
