Keeping a restaurant thriving for four decades is a feat in any city, but in Savannah, with its ever-evolving culinary scene, it’s a monumental achievement. Spanky’s Pizza Galley and Saloon on River Street is marking its 40th anniversary, a testament to its enduring appeal and the vision of its founders.
The story of Spanky’s began with three friends from Thomaston, Georgia: Ansley Williams, Alben Yarbrough, and Dusty Yarbrough. Opening their doors in 1976, these original partners embarked on a journey fueled by friendship, hard work, and a shared dream. When asked if it was all worth it, their resounding answer is a definite yes.
Their journey into the restaurant world started unexpectedly. For Ansley Williams, a part-time job at Underground Atlanta’s Bucket Shop, famous for its oversized hamburgers, sparked an unforeseen passion. He was soon joined by Alben, and together they discovered a genuine enjoyment in the fast-paced, customer-centric environment. “We were literally getting paid to do something that we would have paid to have done. We loved it. We had more fun than we ever had,” Williams recalls, highlighting the infectious enthusiasm that marked their early days.
Their ambitions grew beyond just working in restaurants. They dreamt of mastering the art of bartending and eventually managing their own establishment. To hone their skills, they ventured to Cape Cod and Lake Tahoe, areas renowned for their vibrant hospitality industries. “I like to say that’s when we got our master’s in the restaurant business,” Williams jokes, emphasizing the invaluable experience they gained.
An opportunity arose when the Crowley family, owners of the Bucket Shop, sought help with their struggling River Street venture, O’Leary’s Tavern. Arriving in Savannah on New Year’s Eve 1974, Williams and Alben found a lively spot popular with locals, but plagued by operational inefficiencies. “Alben and I came into town on New Year’s Eve in 1974, and (O’Leary’s) was loaded up with hippies,” Williams describes, painting a picture of the tavern’s vibrant but chaotic atmosphere. They took on part ownership, spending a year and a half learning the Savannah market and solidifying their understanding of the restaurant business in this unique city.
Meanwhile, Dusty Yarbrough, the elder brother, was awaiting a new engineering job in Alaska. In the interim, he decided to lend a hand to Williams and Alben in Savannah. Dusty’s arrival proved to be a pivotal moment. “But we still had the dream to do our own, especially after Dusty got out here,” Williams explains. “He strengthened our position significantly.” With Dusty on board, the dream of creating their own restaurant became more tangible.
A location became available just a short walk from O’Leary’s, and the trio began developing their concept. They drew inspiration from the popular half-pound hamburgers at the Bucket Shop and identified a gap in the Savannah dining scene. “In those days, the hamburgers were like the size of McDonald’s,” Williams explains, highlighting the trend of smaller portions at the time. “… There were no pizza places downtown, so we knew we also wanted to do pizza.” The name “Spanky’s” was chosen as a playful nod to “The Little Rascals,” evoking a sense of fun and lightheartedness. “Pizza Galley and Saloon” was added to reflect their waterfront location and the casual dining and bar atmosphere they envisioned. Dusty’s engineering background was instrumental in designing the restaurant’s interior, adding a unique, rustic touch.
To create the distinctive ambiance, they sourced reclaimed wood from an old barn in Bluffton, South Carolina. “We went out to Bluffton, S.C.,” Williams recounts. “A guy said he had an old barn that needed to be torn down. We said we’ll come tear it down for you if you give us the wood. So we tore down the barn. These boards came off that old barn in 1976.” This reclaimed wood, still visible on the walls near the bar, gives Spanky’s its signature warm and inviting feel. Alben points to the back wall, revealing the original rock underneath, exposed after laborious jackhammering through old stucco. The dedication was immense, with Dusty even recalling his sons sleeping in the restaurant corners as they worked tirelessly to open.
In December 1976, Spanky’s River Street opened its doors. Alben and Williams were 26, and Dusty was 29. The opening night was a glamorous affair, a stark contrast to the casual vibe Spanky’s would become known for. “Everyone came dressed in tuxedos and arrived in limousines,” Alben remembers. “Those were very special times because everybody in the city would come and get dressed up.” From day one, Spanky’s was a hit. “When we opened the doors, they were lined up at lunch, happy hour and night,” Williams says, emphasizing the immediate popularity. “We had three shifts for bartenders. We were working 16 hour days, six days a week. … We had to regulate the doors because of the fire marshal.” Spanky’s quickly set a new standard for River Street, becoming a bustling hub of activity. “It set a precedent on River Street that people had never seen,” Alben states. Dusty adds, “People would leave work and come down here and start drinking and then just decide to stay and not go back to work. I had never seen anything like it.”
Adding to Spanky’s culinary legacy was a menu innovation: The Original Chicken Fingers. Created by Alben, these weren’t just any chicken fingers. “We called (Alben) the chicken hawk up in Cape Cod because he loved chicken so much; so we knew we wanted to have a chicken sandwich on the menu,” Williams explains. Dusty elaborates on the accidental creation, “Then I remember seeing the special on the menu and thinking, chicken fingers? What’s a chicken finger? And people were coming in asking about it.” Alben’s solution to using leftover chicken bits was to batter and deep fry them, resulting in a menu item that became an instant classic and remains a Spanky’s signature dish to this day. The demand was so high they quickly outgrew their initial fryer.
The team expanded, bringing in Dennis Clements and David Silverman from O’Leary’s. Clements took charge in the kitchen alongside Alben, while Silverman managed the front door. Humorous anecdotes from the early days abound, including the revelation that Clements had never actually cooked a pizza before opening night. Silverman’s age was another source of amusement. Initially believed to be their peer, they later discovered he was only 17. Despite the surprises and occasional chaos, these early years were filled with laughter and camaraderie, forging bonds that have lasted decades. While recalling stories, they acknowledge the changing times. “It was a great time to be in the bar business,” Alben reflects. “People were scared they were going to miss something if they left.”
However, pre-Rousakis Plaza River Street faced its challenges, particularly during the off-season. “It was tough back then from November to March,” Williams admits. “We had slim pickings. We struggled every year to make it to St. Patrick’s Day.” To combat this, Williams took on a public relations role, becoming the face of Spanky’s and River Street. “So Ansley was in front of the media,” Alben says. “He got be friends with former mayor Rousakis who was mayor for 21 years.” Williams became involved with the Waterfront Association, eventually becoming president, and spearheaded the creation of events like Oktoberfest, July 4th fireworks, and the Christmas parade, transforming River Street into a year-round destination. “It was easier than cooking,” Williams jokes about his expanded responsibilities.
Two years after the original Spanky’s, they expanded to the southside, followed by locations on St. Simons Island, Tybee Island, Athens, Brunswick, and Pooler. Williams’ Live Oak Restaurant Group now encompasses not only Spanky’s but also Tubby’s, Fiddlers, Molly McGuire’s, and Dub’s. The business has remained a family affair, with cousins, friends, brothers, nieces, nephews, and now their children contributing to its ongoing success. Dusty’s son, John, is now an owner, representing the next generation. “Growing up in this environment was pretty unbelievable,” John reflects. “It wasn’t the average life of a kid. Working downtown was great money and the things you would see…” He smiles, recalling the unique experience of growing up immersed in the River Street atmosphere.
The enduring success of Spanky’s River Street boils down to a few key ingredients. “It was built off of fun,” Alben emphasizes. “Ansley, Dusty and I have a passion for having fun and loving people. You’re only as good as the people you surround yourself with, and we were blessed. God blessed us with the right people at the right time.” Dusty adds, “A cold Budweiser is the same wherever you go … Food needs to be consistent and you need to have a pretty good product… but one thing you can’t duplicate is the people.” Williams concludes, “You can’t do any of this other stuff–the food, the service, the atmosphere– you can’t do it without wonderful, good people, and we have been blessed with them. … Find what it is that you love, and then do everything you can to do it for a living.” He reflects, “If you do what you love, you’ll never work a day in your life. …Don’t get me wrong, it is hard work, but we enjoy it so much… We had a great opportunity to come together and create something that we had an awful lot of fun and love doing, and it’s just turned out to be an extraordinary experience for all of us. And we managed to make a living out it. And I love these guys.” Alben adds, “It’s very fun growing up through life with your best friends being your heroes.”
The founders also express deep gratitude to the city of Savannah for embracing them and Spanky’s. Williams recounts a telling early experience: “When Alben and I were scoping out places to open, we went to Steve’s Plantation Club on Southside. We were sitting next to this gal and the band was playing and a dozen other people were there… She had this bouffant, redneck hairdo and she turned to us and said, ‘Don’t you like this place?’ and I said, ‘Yes ma’am, we do.’ And she said, ‘This is the best thing that has happened to this town since the bowling alley on Wednesday night.’ And I turned to Alben and said, ‘Son, we’re going to do good in this town.'” This anecdote encapsulates the welcoming spirit of Savannah that played a crucial role in the remarkable 40-year story of Spanky’s River Street.
