Street And Co. isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a Portland institution. For over 26 years, this beloved eatery has consistently delighted diners with its simple yet exquisite dishes, proving that culinary magic often lies in the quality of ingredients and the passion in the kitchen. Among their celebrated offerings, the clams in white sauce with linguine stands as a testament to their enduring appeal, a dish that has graced their menu since day one. As you savor each forkful of perfectly cooked pasta intertwined with plump, succulent clams, it becomes instantly clear why Street and Co. and its signature flavors have captivated palates for decades. This is a place where the alchemy of simple ingredients transforms into a dining experience that’s both comforting and extraordinary, served steaming hot from well-seasoned sauté pans.
Recently, I had the pleasure of sharing this iconic dish with Dana Street himself, the owner of Street and Co. and co-owner of the esteemed Fore Street and the highly anticipated Scales on Maine Wharf. Despite being our first meeting, the shared passion for exceptional food sparked an immediate and engaging conversation. Street’s insights into the restaurant’s history and philosophy offered a deeper appreciation for the Street and Co. experience.
He recounted the fascinating story behind another cherished menu item, the sole française. Originally inspired by the classic French sole meuniére, prepared with brown butter, parsley, and lemon, the dish underwent a name change thanks to a visit from the legendary Julia Child. As Street explained, Julia Child, whose own culinary journey was ignited by a memorable sole meuniére in France, dined at Street and Co. Recognizing that their preparation diverged from the traditional meuniére, Dana Street, with characteristic thoughtfulness, renamed it sole française to avoid any misinterpretation. We also shared this dish, and like the linguine, its beauty lies in its simplicity. A delicate sole fillet, lightly floured and dipped in an egg wash, is expertly seared in one of those cherished skillets, achieving a golden-brown perfection. The accompanying potatoes are perfectly positioned to soak up the rich, nutty brown butter sauce that completes the dish. Regardless of its name, the sole française at Street and Co. is undeniably delicious, a sentiment I’m confident Julia Child herself would wholeheartedly endorse.
While Dana Street’s expertise lies in ownership and vision, the culinary heart of Street and Co. beats in the hands of Chef King Bishop. Bishop, who helms the intimate open kitchen, is a true Street and Co. success story. Starting ten years ago as a salad maker, he has diligently honed his skills and risen to become the restaurant’s leading chef. He deeply respects the restaurant’s signature dishes, maintaining their integrity while subtly infusing his own creativity into sides and specials. One example of his innovative touch is the enhanced depth he brings to the marina sauce by simmering lobster shells within it, extracting a richer, more complex flavor profile. Bishop’s commitment to seasonal ingredients and evolving techniques is evident in the ever-changing salads and vegetable dishes. Street and Co. prioritizes local sourcing, and during my visit, the arrival of two substantial boxes filled with pristine shiitake mushrooms highlighted their dedication to fresh, high-quality produce.
The inviting ambiance of Street and Co. contributes significantly to its charm. On a bustling evening, the kitchen expertly orchestrates the creation of over 300 plates, served to diners who are immersed in the restaurant’s rustic warmth. Dried chili peppers and garlic bulbs adorn the wooden beams, adding a touch of farmhouse chic to the exposed brick walls and wide-planked pine floors. The copper-topped tables are not merely decorative; they are functional, designed to accommodate the steaming hot sauté pans directly from the kitchen. The bar area provides a welcoming space, showcasing a tempting array of fresh oysters and offering comfortable seating for guests to relax with a glass of wine from their extensive Italian and French selection, perhaps accompanied by a selection from the enticing “Tastes” menu.
The commitment to freshness at Street and Co. extends beyond local produce. Early on Saturday mornings, Chef King Bishop makes a trip to Upstream Trucking, a wholesale fish seller co-owned by Dana Street, located just down Commercial Street. This direct access to the freshest catches from Maine and the East Coast allows Bishop to hand-select the day’s seafood specials, ensuring that Street and Co. diners are consistently presented with the highest quality product available. This unwavering dedication to excellence in ingredients and preparation is undoubtedly a key factor in Street and Co.’s continued success and positions it to thrive for another 26 years and beyond as a cornerstone of Portland’s vibrant culinary scene.