Sullivan Street Bakery is a name synonymous with exceptional bread in New York City, but beyond their crusty loaves lies another treasure: their remarkable pizza. While they’ve long been celebrated for revolutionizing bread making with simple, no-knead techniques, their approach to pizza is equally ingenious and delicious. Among their array of tempting flavors, the zucchini pizza stands out as a true revelation, defying expectations and converting even the staunchest summer squash skeptics. This isn’t just any pizza; it’s a testament to the power of simplicity and quality ingredients, a hallmark of Sullivan Street Bakery’s philosophy.
My Summer Squash Skepticism and Sullivan Street Bakery’s Revelation
Like many, I’ve never been particularly enamored with summer squash. Its delicate flavor often fades into blandness, its texture can become unpleasantly slippery when cooked, and any fleeting crispness achieved is all too short-lived. Yet, the seasonal abundance of zucchini and summer squash presents a culinary challenge, a gentle nudge for those who appreciate local produce to find creative and compelling ways to enjoy it. It’s a commitment to seasonal eating, to supporting local farmers, and to making the most of what nature offers, even when initial enthusiasm is… restrained.
However, my summer squash ambivalence took an unexpected turn when I encountered the zucchini pizza at Sullivan Street Bakery. Located initially on 9th Avenue and now in Chelsea, Jim Lahey’s bakery has become a bread mecca since its inception in 1994. Amidst the tempting display of breads and pastries, it was the square slices of zucchini pizza that truly captivated my attention. Unlike typical pizzas, this one was piled high with what resembled mounds of finely shredded summer squash, promising a unique textural and flavor experience.
Intrigued, I brought a square home and heated it up. The first bite was a revelation. The complexity of flavor was astonishing, far exceeding any expectations I had for a zucchini-topped pizza. My mind raced, conjuring images of elaborate culinary techniques and exotic ingredients – perhaps lemon zest, anchovies, garlic confit, or some rare herb flown in from distant lands. Surely, such depth of flavor couldn’t be achieved with simple means.
Jim Lahey: The Genius Behind the Simple, Delicious Pizza
To my utter surprise, a quick consultation of Jim Lahey’s pizza cookbook, revealed the astonishing truth: the zucchini pizza is indeed made with just five main ingredients, excluding the flour and yeast for the dough. This wasn’t culinary wizardry with a laundry list of components; it was pure, unadulterated genius in simplicity. It was a testament to Lahey’s culinary philosophy – that the best food often arises from simple ideas, perhaps even a touch of “culinary laziness,” as he jokingly suggests. His approach often involves starting with minimal ingredients on hand, experimenting, and refining until a perfect balance of flavors and textures is achieved.
Jim Lahey, the mastermind behind Sullivan Street Bakery, is also the culinary innovator who gifted the world the revolutionary no-knead bread recipe, which went viral after being featured in The New York Times in 2006. This same principle of simplicity and minimal intervention extends to his pizza making. The dough, true to his style, is incredibly straightforward – a wetter dough requiring a longer rest, pressed into a sheet pan like focaccia. This no-fuss dough forms the perfect base for the star of the show: the zucchini topping.
The preparation of the zucchini is equally simple yet crucial. Shredded summer squash is salted to draw out excess moisture, then pressed to remove as much liquid as possible. This step is key to preventing a soggy pizza and concentrating the zucchini flavor. The seasoned squash is then mixed with coarsely grated Gruyère cheese, known for its nutty and slightly funky notes, and generously scattered across the dough, right to the edges. This edge-to-edge topping ensures maximum crispness as the pizza bakes, eliminating the traditional pizza “handle.” Finally, a sprinkle of breadcrumbs acts as a final safeguard against any remaining moisture, contributing to the overall texture and preventing sogginess.
Recreating the Sullivan Street Bakery Zucchini Pizza Experience at Home
The result of this simple yet thoughtful process is a pizza unlike any other. Golden, incredibly crisp, and bursting with unexpected flavor, it completely redefines expectations for summer squash. It’s a testament to how humble ingredients, when treated with respect and ingenuity, can transform into something truly extraordinary. While the exact recipe is available in Jim Lahey’s cookbooks, understanding the core principles – simple dough, moisture removal from zucchini, quality Gruyère, and breadcrumbs for texture – provides a solid foundation for recreating a similar experience at home.
Visiting Sullivan Street Bakery in NYC
To truly appreciate the magic of Sullivan Street Bakery and their zucchini pizza, a visit to one of their locations in New York City is highly recommended. Located in Chelsea and other locations, Sullivan Street Bakery offers not just their famed zucchini pizza but also a wide array of artisanal breads, pastries, and other delectable treats. Experiencing the pizza fresh from their ovens is an unparalleled culinary experience, allowing you to savor the perfect balance of textures and flavors that define Sullivan Street Bakery’s creations. It’s a must-visit destination for any food lover seeking authentic, high-quality baked goods and a taste of pizza perfection in NYC.
Conclusion
Sullivan Street Bakery’s zucchini pizza is more than just a pizza; it’s a culinary revelation. It’s a celebration of simplicity, quality ingredients, and the transformative power of thoughtful cooking. It’s an unexpected delight that will convert even the most skeptical summer squash detractors and leave you craving another square. Whether you try to recreate it at home or, better yet, visit Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City, prepare to be amazed by the magic of this unassuming yet unforgettable pizza.
