Dining out is always a bit of an adventure, especially when trying a new restaurant. This past weekend, we ventured to Thames Street Kitchen in Newport, Rhode Island, with friends, curious to see what this spot had to offer. For some in our group, including myself and my partner, it was a first visit. New restaurants can be hit or miss, but we knew that regardless of the venue, good company would guarantee a pleasant evening. While we did enjoy our time, Thames Street Kitchen presented a mix of highs and lows, leaving us somewhat undecided about a return visit in the near future. The culinary aspect was undeniably a highlight, yet certain other elements didn’t quite resonate with us, creating an equilibrium that, for our personal preferences, might not be compelling enough for a repeat visit. However, let’s delve into the specifics of our experience at Thames Street Kitchen.
thames street sign
Location and Atmosphere: Navigating Thames Street
Thames Street Kitchen is situated in a modest, single-story shingled building directly on Lower Thames Street. Parking is definitely a consideration. On-street parking is scarce to non-existent, particularly during the summer months when resident parking restrictions are enforced. We ended up parking about a quarter of a mile away on Spring Street. While the walk was pleasant on a nice evening, inclement weather would certainly make this a significant inconvenience. Arriving ahead of our friends, we were shown to a high-top communal table, designed for perhaps ten to twelve people but divided to seat smaller groups. We found ourselves seated right next to another couple at the same table. This arrangement wasn’t ideal for us, and frankly, it made us a bit apprehensive from the start. The remaining tables are positioned along the front of the restaurant, facing Thames Street, and are quite closely packed. The space is undeniably compact, and it’s also quite noisy. With expansive windows at the front and large kitchen windows opposite, sound tends to amplify within the space. Throughout dinner, “What?” became a frequent interjection as we strained to converse without raising our voices. The view from the front windows is, to be honest, unremarkable. Ambiance is not the draw here.
thames st front
Service: Attentive and Laid-Back
The service at Thames Street Kitchen was commendable. Our waitress was attentive without being intrusive. She promptly opened our wines and provided glasses. While the service was efficient, I must admit I would have appreciated more appropriate wine glasses, especially given the $5 corkage fee per person. Our food arrived simultaneously and was served hot. The pacing of courses was well-managed. Overall, we had no complaints regarding the wait staff. They struck a good balance of being relaxed yet professional.
Culinary Highlights: Exploring the Menu
The food at Thames Street Kitchen was, without a doubt, a major positive. Based on my own choices and observations, and the lack of any complaints from our group, the culinary offerings are a strong point. The menu provided ample variety, though there weren’t any specific daily specials on offer. Among our party of six, we sampled three different entrees and an impressive five appetizers, two of which were listed as “Sides” on the menu.
Appetizer Selections:
- Swiss Chard Pancake with Crème Fraiche: This dish was well-received by the person who ordered it, who found it very enjoyable. It was also noted to be a generously sized portion.
- Beef Tartare with Caper Berries and Artichoke: This was my appetizer, and it was truly delicious. While the portion of beef wasn’t enormous, the tartare was expertly seasoned and tasted exceptionally fresh. I thoroughly enjoyed it.
- Oysters on the Half Shell with Rhubarb Mignonette: These looked appealing, and their recipient declared them to be excellent.
- Duck Confit with Grapefruit, Wasabi, and Arugula: This was a visually appealing duck dish. My friend who ordered it consumed it quickly, suggesting it was highly satisfactory.
- Greens: Listed as a side, this served as the house salad. It was slightly on the smaller side, but the vinaigrette was flavorful.
Entree Choices:
- Fried Chicken over Honeyed Spaetzle: This was my entree, shared by another diner in our group. It arrived hot, juicy, and flavorful, and was a substantial serving, especially considering the tendency for somewhat smaller portions elsewhere on the menu. The spaetzle was firm and tasty. While my partner found it slightly too salty, I disagreed. I rarely eat chicken skin, but I devoured every bit of this dish. It was genuinely excellent.
- Halibut with Spring Vegetables and Yuzu: This consisted of a small halibut fillet accompanied by green vegetables, with peas being the most prominent. The fish was cooked well and flavorful. The peas were crisp and fresh and complemented the dish nicely. However, if I had ordered this as my main course, I would likely have left the restaurant still feeling hungry, as it was a rather small entree.
- Scup with Asparagus and Fingerling Potatoes: This dish appeared well-prepared, and was chosen by two diners in our party, both of whom enjoyed it. The scup was filleted, making it easy to eat.
Dessert and Coffee:
Dessert was a homemade chocolate and brownie ice cream, which was very tasty. An extra scoop or two would have been welcome. We finished the meal with French pressed coffee.
2011 Lioco Pinot Noir
BYOB Advantage: Wine Selection
Being a BYOB establishment is a significant advantage of Thames Street Kitchen, and we certainly took full advantage of it. The wines we brought were all excellent, enhancing our dining experience. Among them was a bottle of 2011 Lioco Pinot Noir from Sonoma’s Coastal region. This Pinot Noir was rich and fruity, with unexpected body and length – a truly delicious wine. While priced around $40 on wine-searcher, it’s arguably worth it and stands up favorably against other Pinot Noirs I’ve tried recently. We also brought a 2012 Casey Flat CFR Sauvignon Blanc and a 2010 CFR Estate Red. To conclude the evening, we enjoyed a bottle of Grace dessert wine from Westport Rivers Winery. This wine, made from distilled Chardonnay grapes, is exceptionally delicious, rich, and with a long finish. Good wine and good company undoubtedly contribute to a great time. Everyone in our group brought excellent wine selections.
Final Verdict: A Balanced Perspective on Thames Street Kitchen
Overall, our experience at Thames Street Kitchen left us with mixed feelings. The quality of the food was undeniably very good. However, the ambiance and general atmosphere of the restaurant didn’t particularly impress us. For a romantic dinner for two, it’s unlikely that my partner and I would choose to return. Perhaps in the off-season, when parking might be less problematic, but even then, it’s questionable.
Thames Street Kitchen offers good food, but be prepared for a noisy environment, parking challenges, and a less-than-ideal location in terms of ambiance. Ultimately, forming your own opinion is probably the best approach.
Restaurant Details:
Thames Street Kitchen, 677 Thames St, Newport, RI 02840
401.846.9100
BYOB
A votre sante!
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