Newport, Rhode Island, a city famed for its stunning coastline and vibrant culinary scene, is home to a treasure trove of dining experiences. This weekend, our quest for a new gastronomic adventure led us to Thames Street Kitchen, a restaurant that had piqued our interest. Located on Lower Thames Street, we ventured in with open minds, ready to explore its offerings. While anticipation was high, fueled by word-of-mouth and online buzz, we approached it with realistic expectations, understanding that new restaurant experiences can be a mixed bag. Our evening at Thames Street Kitchen proved to be just that – a blend of delightful highs and noticeable lows, ultimately landing in a balanced, albeit not overwhelmingly compelling, experience.
thames street sign
Image of Thames Street Kitchen Newport RI street sign, indicating its location on a historic street.
Ambiance and Atmosphere: Rustic Charm Meets Urban Squeeze
Thames Street Kitchen occupies a modest, single-story shingled building, typical of Newport’s architectural landscape. Arriving at the venue, the immediate challenge became apparent: parking. Situated on Lower Thames Street, on-street parking is extremely limited, bordering on non-existent, especially during peak seasons when resident parking restrictions are enforced. We found ourselves parking a considerable distance away on Spring Street, a quarter-mile trek. On a pleasant evening, this walk was manageable, but the thought of navigating this distance in inclement weather cast a shadow on the initial impression.
thames st front
Exterior front view of Thames Street Kitchen restaurant in Newport RI, showcasing its street-side presence.
Upon entering, we were seated at a communal-style high-top table, cleverly divided to accommodate smaller groups. While this rustic approach can foster a convivial atmosphere, being seated so closely to another couple felt somewhat intrusive and lacked the intimacy many diners seek. The remainder of the seating arrangement followed a similar pattern – closely packed tables lining the front of the restaurant, facing Thames Street. The space felt confined, and the acoustics amplified the noise levels considerably. With large windows facing the street and the open kitchen opposite, sound reverberated, making conversation challenging. We frequently resorted to asking “What?” and raising our voices to be heard across the table. Furthermore, the view from the front windows offered little to write home about, lacking any scenic charm. Ambiance, it became clear, is not Thames Street Kitchen’s strongest suit.
Service: Attentive and Laid-back Professionalism
In contrast to the ambiance, the service at Thames Street Kitchen was a definite highlight. Our waitress struck a perfect balance between attentiveness and unobtrusiveness. She promptly attended to our BYOB needs, efficiently opening our wines and providing glassware. While the wine glasses were functional, a slightly more refined wine glass would have elevated the experience, especially considering the corkage fee. The timing of the meal service was impeccable; dishes arrived simultaneously for our group, piping hot, and courses were thoughtfully spaced, allowing ample time to savor each plate without feeling rushed. Overall, the wait staff were commendable – exhibiting a relaxed yet professional demeanor that contributed positively to the dining experience.
Culinary Exploration: A Food-Focused Feast
The heart of Thames Street Kitchen lies in its food, and in this aspect, it truly shines. Our group of diners unanimously praised the quality and flavor of the dishes. The menu presented a diverse selection of choices, although specials were absent on this particular evening. Between our party, we sampled a variety of appetizers and entrees, providing a good overview of the kitchen’s capabilities.
Appetizing Beginnings
Our culinary journey commenced with a selection of appetizers, five in total, including two listed as “Sides” on the menu, blurring the lines pleasantly.
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Swiss Chard Pancake with Crème Fraiche: This dish garnered high praise from the diner who ordered it. The pancake was generously portioned and flavorful, complemented beautifully by the creamy fraîche.
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Beef Tartare with Caper Berries and Artichoke: As my personal choice, the beef tartare was a standout. While the portion of beef was moderate, the quality was exceptional. The tartare was expertly seasoned, incredibly fresh, and the caper berries and artichoke provided delightful briny and tangy accents.
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Oysters on the Half Shell with Rhubarb Mignonette: Visually appealing and reportedly delicious, the oysters were declared excellent by their recipient. The rhubarb mignonette likely provided a unique and tangy counterpoint to the briny oysters.
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Duck Confit with Grapefruit, Wasabi and Arugula: This appetizer was a visual and gustatory delight. The duck confit was beautifully presented and disappeared rapidly from my friend’s plate, suggesting a high level of satisfaction. The combination of grapefruit, wasabi, and arugula likely offered a complex interplay of flavors – citrusy, spicy, and peppery – to balance the richness of the duck.
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Greens (House Salad): Listed as a side, the house salad, while modestly sized, was elevated by a flavorful vinaigrette, making it a refreshing and tasty start.
Entrée Excellence
The main courses continued to impress, showcasing the kitchen’s skill in preparing diverse dishes.
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Fried Chicken over Honeyed Spaetzle: Sharing this entree with another diner, I found the fried chicken to be exceptional – hot, juicy, flavorful, and generously portioned, particularly considering the restaurant’s tendency towards slightly smaller plates. The honeyed spaetzle was perfectly firm and flavorful, providing a delightful textural and sweet-savory contrast to the crispy chicken. While one diner found it slightly salty, I personally disagreed, relishing every bite, even the skin, which I rarely consume. This dish was a definite highlight.
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Halibut with Spring Vegetables and Yuzu: The halibut, while perfectly cooked and flavorful, was presented as a smaller fillet accompanied by spring vegetables, primarily peas. The peas were crisp and fresh, complementing the delicate fish. However, for a diner with a larger appetite, this entree might leave them feeling wanting more.
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Scup with Asparagus and Fingerling Potatoes: Two diners opted for the scup, and both expressed their enjoyment. The scup was filleted, eliminating any bones, and paired well with asparagus and fingerling potatoes, creating a balanced and satisfying dish.
Sweet Finale
Dessert was a homemade chocolate and brownie ice cream, a simple yet decadent conclusion to the meal. While undeniably delicious, a slightly larger portion would have been welcomed. French pressed coffee provided a rich and aromatic accompaniment to the sweet treat.
2011 Lioco Pinot Noir
Image of a bottle of 2011 Lioco Pinot Noir wine, highlighting the BYOB aspect of Thames Street Kitchen.
BYOB Advantage: Elevating the Experience
The BYOB policy at Thames Street Kitchen is a significant advantage, allowing diners to personalize their dining experience with their preferred beverages. Our group certainly took advantage of this, contributing to a delightful selection of wines throughout the evening. A standout was the 2011 Lioco Pinot Noir from Sonoma Coast, a rich and fruity wine with surprising body and length. This Pinot Noir, retailing around $40, proved to be a worthy choice, standing its ground against other Pinot Noirs I’ve sampled recently. Its robust flavor profile paired beautifully with the diverse dishes we enjoyed. We also shared a 2012 Casey Flat CFR Sauvignon Blanc and a 2010 CFR Estate Red, ensuring a variety of pairings throughout the meal. To conclude the evening, a bottle of Grace dessert wine from Westport Rivers Winery, crafted from distilled Chardonnay grapes, provided a luscious and unctuous finish. The combination of excellent company and thoughtfully selected wines undoubtedly enhanced our overall experience.
Final Verdict: Form Your Own Opinion
Our experience at Thames Street Kitchen left us with mixed sentiments. The food quality was undeniably excellent, showcasing creativity, fresh ingredients, and skillful execution. The service was also commendable, contributing to a smooth and enjoyable dining flow. However, the ambiance and logistical aspects of the restaurant presented challenges. The noise levels, cramped seating, and parking difficulties detract from the overall experience, particularly for those seeking a relaxed or romantic setting.
For a casual BYOB dining experience focused primarily on food quality, Thames Street Kitchen is certainly worth considering. However, if ambiance and convenience are high priorities, it might fall short. Ultimately, forming your own opinion is recommended. Thames Street Kitchen offers a compelling culinary experience that may outweigh its atmospheric shortcomings for many diners.
Thames Street Kitchen
677 Thames St, Newport, RI 02840
401.846.9100
BYOB
A votre sante!
Urbanspoon (Zomato) restaurant review link for Thames Street Kitchen Newport, providing access to further reviews.
