Westminster Street in downtown Providence, Rhode Island, stands as a vibrant artery rich with history and architectural significance. As a former art student at the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), I spent countless hours exploring this street, camera in hand, captivated by its evolving urban landscape. Celebrating the 40th anniversary of my RISD graduation in 1980, I’m revisiting those cherished memories and sharing a collection of historic photographs and postcards that illuminate the fascinating story of Westminster Street. This journey back in time uncovers not only the landmark buildings that proudly endure but also the businesses, both grand and humble, that have shaped its character from the late 18th century to the present day. I have fond recollections of strolling along Westminster, past the downtown core and onward to Olneyville, even venturing to Wolf E. Myrow for unique jewels. During my RISD years, the heart of Westminster Street was a pedestrian mall, a haven free from vehicle traffic. There was a certain unrefined charm to downtown Providence then, a character that might be considered lost amidst today’s gentrification.
Westminster Street’s Department Store Legacy
Westminster Street was once a shopper’s paradise, boasting a diverse array of department stores that catered to every need and desire. These retail giants were more than just places to buy goods; they were social hubs and architectural statements, each contributing to the unique atmosphere of downtown Providence.
Woolworth: The Five and Dime Favorite
Located at 185 Westminster Street, Woolworth occupied a substantial five-story building erected in 1920. While I occasionally purchased items from this location, it lacked the distinct appeal of my preferred Woolworth in Chicago. This particular branch, though part of a major chain, served as a local fixture for everyday necessities and small treats.
Thom McAn: Footwear on Westminster
Nearby Woolworth on Westminster Street was Thom McAn, a familiar retail shoe chain. Though I never ventured inside or purchased their shoes, I remember its presence as a consistent part of the Westminster Street retail scene. This brand, once a standalone store, transitioned through different ownerships, reflecting shifts in the broader retail landscape.
Lerner Shops: Fashion in the Wilkinson Building
Situated within the historic Wilkinson Building at 210–216 Westminster, Lerner Shops offered women’s fashion. I never shopped at this location, or its Chicago counterpart. Originating in New York City in 1918, Lerner Shops eventually became part of New York & Company, demonstrating the dynamic evolution of retail businesses over decades.
Peerless: A Regional Department Store Powerhouse
The Peerless department store, situated at 229 Westminster Street on the corner of Union Street, dominated an entire city block. The Peerless Building, as it’s known, has since been repurposed into residential lofts. Peerless was a major regional department store, thriving for over half a century before closing in 1990. Before Peerless, this building housed the Boston Store, further underscoring the location’s long history of retail prominence.
Shepard’s: An Iconic Providence Retailer
Founded in 1880 at 259 Westminster Street, Shepard’s was a beloved Providence institution. Despite filing for bankruptcy in 1974, before my time at RISD, I photographed the iconic Shepard’s sign on a side street, recognizing its enduring presence in the city’s collective memory. The Shepard’s Building occupied a large block bounded by Westminster, Clemence, Washington, and Union Streets. The famous Shepard’s clock and the Tri-Store Bridge, which connected Shepard’s with Cherry & Webb and Gladdings, remain cherished landmarks.
Cherry & Webb: From Massachusetts to Westminster
Cherry & Webb, located at 275 Westminster Street, had roots dating back to 1888 in Massachusetts. The store eventually faced bankruptcy in 2000. I recall a personal shopping experience at a Cherry & Webb location in Warwick, demonstrating its regional reach. This store, along with Shepard’s and Gladdings, formed part of the Tri-Store Bridge complex, highlighting the interconnectedness of these retail giants.
Tilden-Thurber: Westminster Street’s Jewel
Tilden-Thurber, situated at 292 Westminster Street, was undoubtedly the most refined establishment on the street. This family-run jewelry store operated from a beautifully crafted building with a decorated iron façade, constructed in 1895, which still stands as a testament to its enduring elegance. Tilden-Thurber evolved from a showroom for Gorham silver into a four-story department store, becoming Providence’s equivalent to Tiffany’s until its closure in 1991.
Restaurants and Entertainment: Westminster Street’s Social Scene
Beyond shopping, Westminster Street was also a destination for dining and entertainment, offering a range of venues that catered to diverse tastes and social experiences. These establishments played a crucial role in shaping the street’s vibrant atmosphere and cultural life.
Imperial Theatre: A Grand Dramatic Venue
The Imperial Theatre, located at 569 ½ Westminster Street, at the former intersection of Westminster and Weybosset, was a premier dramatic venue. Opening night featured the renowned Four Cohans, likely due to George M. Cohan’s Providence origins. This theater combined elements of 19th-century opera houses with early 20th-century theater design, featuring a three-tiered interior with orchestra, balcony, and gallery seating. Sadly, the Imperial Theatre was demolished in 1965 as part of the Weybosset Hill renewal project, which also reshaped parts of Westminster and Weybosset, creating a plaza and adjacent building complex.
Empire Theatre: A Stunning Entertainment Palace
Located at 260 Westminster Street, the Empire Theatre underwent a grand reopening on October 24, 1898, after being rebuilt. This magnificent theater boasted a seating capacity of 1,801. Throughout its history, the ornate building hosted various names, including Keith’s New Theatre, Victory Theatre, and RKO Victory Theatre. From 1936 until its demise in 1948, it operated as the Empire Theatre. It was conveniently situated across from Shepard’s, creating a lively entertainment and shopping corridor.
Ming Garden: A Taste of China on Westminster
Ming Garden, a classic Chinese restaurant, operated at 141–143 Westminster Street from 1941 to 1986. With entrances on both Westminster Street and Kennedy Plaza, it was easily accessible. Adjacent to People’s Bank, later acquired by Hartford National Bank and then Shawmut, Ming Garden was a notable dining destination. I dined here at least once during my RISD years, accompanied by my friend and roommate Mimi Wu, creating a memorable culinary experience on Westminster Street.
Architectural Landmarks: Historic Buildings of Westminster Street
Westminster Street is adorned with remarkable buildings that showcase diverse architectural styles and historical significance. These landmarks stand as enduring symbols of Providence’s rich urban heritage, each with a unique story to tell.
Rhode Island Hospital Trust Building: Now RISD’s Fleet Library
Located at 15 Westminster Street, the Rhode Island Hospital Trust Building is an impressive 11-story steel-frame structure, primarily faced in limestone, constructed between 1917 and 1919. RISD acquired this property in 2005 for $47 million, transforming it into the Fleet Library, a café, and student dormitories. During my time in Providence, I maintained a checking account at Hospital Trust Bank and often walked past this building, sometimes venturing into the less inspiring One Financial Center Plaza next door for a quick snack.
Turks Head Building: An Iconic Intersection Landmark
The Turks Head Building, erected at the intersection of Westminster and Weybosset in 1913, is a true Providence icon. Its distinctive name originates from a ship’s figurehead resembling a Turk, which was displayed on the Jacob Whitman house that previously occupied the site in 1750. Although the original sculpture was destroyed in 1815, the Turks Head Building incorporates an effigy on a decorative band above the second story, preserving this historical reference.
Industrial Trust Building: The “Superman Building”
Dominating the Providence skyline at 111 Westminster Street is the Industrial Trust Building, a magnificent 26-story art deco skyscraper completed in 1928. Widely regarded as the city’s most iconic landmark, it features a stepped, pyramidal design with setbacks above the 15th, 22nd, and 26th floors, topped by a four-story lantern. Nicknamed the “Superman Building” due to its resemblance to the Daily Planet building from Superman comics, this architectural masterpiece sadly stands vacant today and was listed as one of the 11 most endangered buildings by the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 2019.
Kresge Building: Art Deco on Westminster
Designed by Kresge’s in-house architect James E. Sexton, the Kresge Building at 191 Westminster Street is another art deco gem, completed in 1920. Currently vacant, its future is under consideration by developers. This building represents the art deco architectural influence prevalent on Westminster Street during the early 20th century.
Old Providence Journal Building: Beaux Arts Beauty Restored
The stunning Beaux Arts Old Providence Journal Building at 203–209 Westminster Street, dating back to 1906, once housed the Providence Journal. The newspaper quickly outgrew the space, relocating in 1934. This American Renaissance-style building features colossal Corinthian columns, a heavy cornice, and elaborate dormers. A modernization attempt in the 1970s obscured its original beauty with metal sheathing, but a major restoration project in 1983 revived its former glory. Recent development plans propose transforming it and an adjacent building into The Hive Hotel.
Wilkinson Building: Revived for Modern Use
Located at 210–216 Westminster Street, the Wilkinson Building, originally constructed between 1887 and 1900, underwent modernization to house Lerner Shops. After two decades of vacancy, it was converted in 2004 into residential units and commercial space. The renovation involved removing non-original stone tiles and restoring the building’s original facade, blending historical preservation with contemporary use.
Lapham Building: Historic Renovation in Progress
The nine-story Lapham Building at 284–290 Westminster Street, completed in 1904, is characterized by decorative pilasters and a shared frieze with the Tilden-Thurber Building. Currently, Cornish Associates is undertaking a project to renovate and expand this and two other historic properties, ensuring the continued life of these architectural treasures.
Victorian Era Trade Cards: Glimpses of Westminster’s Past Businesses
Exploring Victorian-era trade cards offers a charming glimpse into the businesses that once thrived on Westminster Street during the late 19th century. These cards, beyond their aesthetic appeal, provide valuable historical insights into the commercial landscape of the era.
Ira N. Goff Pianos and Organs: A Westminster Street Music Merchant
My recent acquisition of trade cards sparked my interest in Ira N. Goff Pianos and Organs, located at 168 Westminster Street. Research revealed details about Ira N. Goff and his partner John O. Darling. A photograph from 1906 clearly shows Goff & Darling Pianos on Westminster Street, placing this business within the street’s vibrant history.
Ira N. Goff, born in Providence in 1849, entered the piano business through his brother-in-law at Barney and Son. In 1876, he established his own business on Westminster Street, opposite the Boston Store. John O. Darling became a partner in 1885, and the firm subsequently relocated to 268 Westminster Street. Goff’s personal life and business trajectory reflect the entrepreneurial spirit of 19th-century Providence.
John O. Darling, born in Providence in 1852, had a varied career path before partnering with Goff. His early work in insurance and wholesale grocery, followed by a significant tenure at American Electrical Works, highlights his diverse professional background. Darling’s marriage and remarriage, as noted in a 1919 Music Trades publication, add personal details to his historical profile.
Other Victorian Era Trade Cards: Snapshots of Westminster Businesses
Other Victorian trade cards further enrich our understanding of Westminster Street’s past commercial diversity. These cards represent businesses ranging from hair stores to furniture dealers, each contributing to the street’s dynamic commercial ecosystem.
Westminster Street’s narrative extends beyond these highlights, with more stories waiting to be uncovered. Stay tuned for my next blog post, which will feature more vintage Providence photographs and explore other downtown streets, including Weybosset, continuing this nostalgic journey through Providence’s urban past.
