Suburban restaurants often carry a certain reputation, sometimes unfairly, for being less innovative or exciting than their city counterparts. However, times are changing, and discerning diners are finding culinary gems in unexpected places. Churchill Street Restaurant in Shoreview is a prime example, shattering suburban dining stereotypes and offering a remarkable experience that rivals, and perhaps even surpasses, what you might expect to find in a major city center. As one diner aptly put it, “I didn’t expect a restaurant in Shoreview to be this great.” This sentiment perfectly encapsulates the delightful surprise that awaits visitors to Churchill Street.
Stepping into Churchill Street, you immediately sense a commitment to quality and community. The restaurant boasts an impressive pedigree, with staff hailing from esteemed establishments like The Bachelor Farmer and French Laundry, and a pastry chef with experience at Rustica and The Bachelor Farmer. The space itself is thoughtfully designed to be both welcoming and comfortable, fostering a sense of community. Operating five days a week, from morning coffee to evening dinner, Churchill Street seamlessly transitions throughout the day. It serves as a cozy coffee shop in the early hours, a relaxed lunch spot, a vibrant happy hour destination, and finally, an upscale dining venue as evening approaches. During our visit, we observed patrons effortlessly transitioning from working on laptops over coffee to enjoying wine and dinner as the day unfolded, highlighting the restaurant’s versatile and inviting atmosphere.
While not a traditional full-service establishment in the sense of table-side ordering, Churchill Street offers a balanced approach. Orders are placed at a counter, and a self-serve water station provides both still and sparkling options. However, the attentive and friendly staff more than compensate, ensuring diners are well-cared for once their meals are served. Their proactive approach to checking in with guests and addressing needs enhances the overall dining experience, creating a welcoming and hospitable environment.
Our culinary journey began with cocktails, exploring both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options. The Sherry Jubilee ($12) was an intriguing concoction, listing vodka, Tattersall Sour Cherry, sherry, lemon, and cinnamon among its ingredients. Despite the complex list, the drink was surprisingly delicate. The cinnamon was subtly present, adding a warm nuance without overpowering the other flavors, and it proved to be a surprisingly versatile accompaniment to the food. On the other hand, the Ginger & Mary Ann ($6), a non-alcoholic option, offered a refreshing and spicy kick. With orange bitters, grenadine, and ginger beer, it was a vibrant and zesty drink, perfectly envisioned for a warm summer day.
Every dish we sampled at Churchill Street was met with enthusiastic approval, and we would gladly order any of them again. The presentation of each plate was a visual delight, adding to the overall enjoyment. The Arancini appetizer ($12) was met with audible expressions of delight upon arrival at the table. These fried risotto balls achieved the perfect textural balance: a satisfyingly crispy exterior yielding to a creamy and light risotto within. The accompanying marinara sauce was a vibrant counterpoint, its bright and sharp flavors complementing the richness of the arancini perfectly.
While Brussels sprouts have become a ubiquitous menu item, we were drawn to a less common offering: Cabbage ($9). Churchill Street’s rendition featured caramelized cabbage with caraway cream, pickled mustard seeds, and breadcrumbs. This dish deserves high praise for its thoughtful and serious approach to an often-underestimated vegetable. The cabbage itself was silky and creamy, beautifully contrasted by the crunchy breadcrumbs. The caraway and mustard were used judiciously, enhancing the dish without being overwhelming. The result was a surprisingly complex and utterly delicious creation. Its popularity was evident, as we observed it being served at several other tables, and one member of our party even ordered a second portion to take home.
Moving on to the entrees, Churchill Street excels at delivering classic dishes with impeccable execution. The Steak Frites ($32) featured a perfectly grilled medium-rare flank steak, accompanied by a rich and decadent poivre sauce redolent with brandy and butter. The frites themselves were a testament to perfect frying – crispy on the outside, avoiding any greasiness, while the potato inside remained hot and fluffy, never undercooked. The Mushroom Risotto ($24) was a joyful and comforting take on a classic. Packed with mushrooms and fresh herbs, and topped with a delightful crisped parmesan crust, it served as a delicious reminder of why certain dishes become timeless favorites.
Dessert brought us the Butterscotch Pudding ($8), which was as visually appealing as it was delicious. Flavor-wise, it evoked nostalgic memories of childhood puddings, but this was a decidedly grown-up interpretation. The pudding itself was sweet, but with a subtle caramel undertone that prevented it from being overly sugary. The whipped cream was adorned with chocolate pearls, adding a welcome textural crunch, and the accompanying almond brittle, while enjoyable, could have benefited from a bit more crispness.
However, this minor point is a mere footnote in an overwhelmingly positive dining experience. Overall, Churchill Street is not just enjoyable; it’s genuinely exciting to witness chefs and restaurateurs expanding beyond the traditional culinary hubs of Minneapolis and St. Paul and bringing well-conceived and expertly executed eateries to the surrounding suburbs. Judging by the bustling atmosphere on our weeknight visit to Churchill Street Restaurant, it’s clear that we are not alone in appreciating this welcome trend in suburban dining.
Churchill Street, 4606 Churchill St., Shoreview, 612.466.2596, WED-SUN 7am-9pm MON-TUE CLOSED
