Portland, Maine, boasts a vibrant and ever-evolving food scene, celebrated both locally and nationally. Amidst this dynamic landscape, where restaurants frequently emerge and fade, Fore Street stands as a beacon of consistent excellence. This establishment, consistently lauded among the city’s finest, has not only weathered culinary trends but has thrived, drawing loyal patrons year after year. Fore Street Portland is more than just a restaurant; it’s a testament to enduring quality and a destination dining experience.
Having dined at Fore Street restaurant periodically over many years, I’ve witnessed its subtle evolution while appreciating its unwavering core values. A remarkable aspect of Fore Street is its staff longevity; encountering a front-of-house team member with less than a decade of tenure is a rarity. This dedication is mirrored in the restaurant’s ambiance, which remains perpetually warm and inviting. The space is characterized by rich wood and copper accents, anchored by a grand brick and soapstone hearth, creating an atmosphere that contributes significantly to Fore Street’s coveted “destination” status in Portland.
Fore Street is an ideal setting for a memorable evening, such as a crisp Sunday in October. While the dining room provides captivating views of the bustling open kitchen, on this occasion, my companion and I opted for seats at the bar. Our culinary journey began with a delectable snack of seared veal sweetbreads accompanied by sautéed dandelion greens, poached pears, and a spiced white wine vinaigrette. The interplay of flavors and textures was expertly balanced. Even as someone not typically drawn to pears, I found their sweet, refreshing crunch to be an impeccable counterpoint to the richness of the sweetbreads. This thoughtful combination exemplifies the culinary artistry found at Fore Street Portland.
The wine program at Fore Street is another highlight, showcasing a diverse and extensive selection, with a notable emphasis on wines that have benefited from careful cellaring. We chose a 2009 Bell Claret from Napa Valley, a blend predominantly of classic Bordeaux varietals, embodying a quintessential Californian style. Its bold, upfront flavors of blackberry and cherry made it an enjoyable choice, perfectly suited to the mood, even without strict food pairing considerations. This approach to wine selection reflects Fore Street’s commitment to providing a holistic and satisfying dining experience.
Our next course was a testament to Maine’s coastal bounty: the chilled seafood tasting platter. This impressive presentation featured Maine lobster with a vibrant tomato and basil relish, delicate slices of yellowfin tuna with pickled turnips, refreshing Atlantic scallop ceviche marinated in smoky mezcal and citrus, and molasses-cured king salmon accompanied by a zesty ginger cabbage slaw. Transitioning from the Claret, a glass of Domaine Carneros Brut N.V. proved to be an excellent companion, its crispness complementing the nuanced flavors of the seafood without overpowering their delicate profiles. The seafood platter is a prime example of Fore Street Portland’s dedication to fresh, high-quality ingredients and innovative flavor combinations.
Beyond the exquisite dishes, another element that consistently delights at Fore Street – aside from the irresistibly chewy and soft bread from Standard Baking Company, generously slathered in butter – is the perpetual presence of warm foie gras on the menu, albeit with ever-changing accompaniments. On this particular evening, the foie gras was grilled and paired with sweet cherries, fragrant pesto, and slightly bitter arugula, served with toast points to facilitate savoring every morsel of the decadent, fatty duck liver. This willingness to showcase and creatively reimagine classic ingredients is a hallmark of Fore Street’s culinary approach.
There’s a distinct character to lamb raised on islands, a flavor profile subtly influenced by its unique diet, often including seaweed. Our lamb entrée showcased this distinctive ingredient in three compelling preparations. First, turnspit-roasted leg of lamb served over a bed of apple and turnip; second, a wonderfully tender smoked shoulder presented with a scallion biscuit; and finally, grilled liver topped with a piquant horseradish cream. Each component of the dish was exceptional alongside the chosen wine, as was my side of sautéed wild matsutake mushrooms, enhanced with butter and earthy black trumpet salt. Remarkably, the mushrooms developed a flavor reminiscent of Brie cheese rind, creating an unexpectedly delightful pairing with the lamb. This lamb dish exemplifies Fore Street Portland’s commitment to showcasing regional ingredients and employing diverse cooking techniques to create harmonious and memorable plates.
While a digestif of Fernet Branca seemed like the ideal conclusion to the rich meal, my companion advocated for dessert. Reluctantly, I agreed to sample the intensely rich dark chocolate torte with a cookie crust, warm hot fudge, and almond toffee ice cream. Despite initial hesitation, resistance proved futile once I took the first spoonful. The dessert was an indulgent and satisfying culmination to the meal.
/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/48347947/IMG_0681.0.0.jpg “Seared veal sweetbreads appetizer at Fore Street Portland restaurant, featuring dandelion greens, poached pears, and white wine vinaigrette”)
Ultimately, my Fernet Branca arrived, restoring perfect equilibrium. After over fifteen years of operation, it’s truly commendable that Fore Street Portland continues to uphold the standards of excellence that initially earned its stellar reputation. The future of this culinary gem on Fore Street, thankfully, appears bright and enduring.
