Many Houstonians mourned the closure of Bellaire’s beloved Cantonese restaurant, Hong Kong Food Street, after two decades of serving the community. When it closed its doors in 2020, it felt like a significant loss for authentic Cantonese cuisine in the area. But Johnny Cheung, who grew up in the family business, starting at just 16 years old, held onto a dream of bringing it back. That dream became a reality on Thursday, August 14th, as Cheung “quietly” reopened a revitalized Hong Kong Food Street in Katy, Texas.
The new Hong Kong Food Street isn’t just a carbon copy of the original. Cheung has carefully crafted an updated menu that blends cherished classic Cantonese dishes with exciting new creations. Diners can still find comforting congee and expertly roasted Beijing duck, alongside modern interpretations of Cantonese flavors. Despite Cheung’s attempt to keep the reopening low-key, word spread quickly, and diners arrived in droves, eager to experience the revived Hong Kong Food Street.
The 3,800-square-foot restaurant, with a seating capacity of 122, was overwhelmed by the enthusiastic response. Over 1,500 customers flocked to Hong Kong Food Street in the first four days alone. From Thursday through Sunday, the restaurant sold out of food daily, requiring Cheung to make frequent supply runs. Wait times stretched beyond an hour, and Cheung even lost his voice from speaking to the countless eager patrons. “I didn’t see that coming,” Cheung admitted, clearly surprised by the immense popularity of the reopening of Hong Kong Food Street.
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The unexpected surge in popularity forced Cheung to quickly adapt and strategize. He initially adjusted dinner hours to allow for crucial prep and restocking time after lunch, but the demand remained incredibly high. Cheung recounts a day when a line formed outside just 15 minutes after the 5 p.m. opening. Within half an hour, Hong Kong Food Street was completely full, with wait times extending to two hours. “In my almost 20 years of working in the restaurant business, I’ve never had a door open and the restaurant gets full in five minutes without a reservation,” he shared, emphasizing the unprecedented nature of the reopening. “We could not make this up.”
Despite the considerable wait times, loyal diners were undeterred. Cheung was particularly touched by the dedication of customers who waited in the summer heat. “They’d say, put my name down and we’ll come back.” He was surprised and grateful that many actually did return, remarking, “I thought, wow, that’s real support.” Witnessing the packed restaurant, Cheung’s 70-year-old retired father, the original owner of Hong Kong Food Street, stepped back into the kitchen. In a display of “tough love,” he put on his apron and began chopping barbecue, demonstrating the family’s deep commitment to the restaurant and its legacy. “That’s how [my parents] show love,” Cheung explained. “They did it for 20 years. Now, I’m doing it by myself.”
Cheung’s parents, Christine Wong and Hansun Cheung, who instilled in him a love for Cantonese cuisine, originally opened Hong Kong Food Street in Bellaire’s Asiatown in 2000. The original menu was extensive, featuring nearly 400 dishes that celebrated traditional Chinese, and specifically Cantonese, culinary traditions. The closure in 2020, due to pandemic pressures and flood damage, was a blow to the Houston food scene. This new Katy location, dubbed “Hong Kong Food Street 2.0” by Cheung, pays tribute to the original while evolving to meet the preferences of today’s diners. Cheung noted that while the original restaurant catered to his parents’ generation, the new iteration is designed for a generation that has grown up and developed a more refined palate. He aims to offer a more “evolved version” of Hong Kong Food Street, blending traditional Cantonese flavors with modern culinary sensibilities.
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The menu at Hong Kong Food Street today is more streamlined, featuring around 100 carefully selected dishes. However, beloved classics like their signature congee remain. Cheung emphasizes the importance of congee in Cantonese cuisine, comparing it to the comforting nature of chicken noodle soup. Alongside the congee, new dishes like the Beijing duck, roasted pork belly, and black pepper tomahawk have quickly become customer favorites. The black pepper tomahawk, a unique take on black pepper beef, features a whole steak expertly diced and stir-fried with black pepper sauce, potato wedges, and onions, served with the bone for dramatic presentation. Diners can even observe the Beijing duck carving station, showcasing the freshness and made-to-order approach of Hong Kong Food Street. “We want to showcase that everything is made to order and piping hot and fresh, even though we’re slammed,” Cheung explains.
Wontons are another highlight, handmade daily and often selling out quickly. Customers might even catch a glimpse of staff folding the dumplings in the bustling dining area, a testament to the restaurant’s dedication to freshness. “We don’t premake them or make a bunch in advance because it doesn’t taste as good,” Cheung states, highlighting the commitment to quality over convenience at Hong Kong Food Street.
While confident in the quality of the food, Cheung is now focused on enhancing the dining experience and improving efficiency. As the initial frenzy subsides and wait times decrease to a more manageable 10 to 15 minutes, Cheung plans to implement OpenTable reservations and consider hiring additional staff. Despite the challenges of the overwhelming initial response, Cheung is deeply grateful for the community’s support.
Cheung recounts a particularly moving moment: “One person said something that made me almost cry. They said ‘I waited for you for almost four years. Two hours is nothing.’” This heartfelt support deeply resonated with Cheung. “That really touched me,” Cheung concluded. “I’m really proud that I can carry on [my family’s] legacy” with this new chapter of Hong Kong Food Street.
Hong Kong Food Street
23015 Colonial Parkway, Suite a101 , Katy, TX 77449 (832) 212-8128 Visit Website
