Lucali, nestled on Henry Street in Brooklyn’s charming Carroll Gardens, isn’t just a pizzeria; it’s an experience. Every afternoon, hours before the doors officially open, a line begins to snake around the block, a testament to the almost mythical status this unassuming eatery has achieved. This isn’t just any line; it’s a curated collection of dedicated food lovers, from neighborhood locals to those who’ve traveled miles, all vying for a taste of what many consider the best pizza in Brooklyn. Even now, as you read this, the anticipation is building on Henry Street, with hopeful diners gathering, ready to embark on the Lucali waitlist ritual.
Among those patiently waiting, you’ll find a diverse mix. There are the line-waiting professionals – individuals hired to secure a coveted spot for those whose time is a luxury. Then come the neighborhood regulars, seasoned veterans of the Lucali system, equipped with insider knowledge and lawn chairs. And finally, stretching far down the block, are the newcomers, the hopefuls unsure if their patience will yield a table, perhaps late into the evening, or even at all.
The gatekeepers to this pizza paradise are the “neighborhood girls,” as they’re affectionately known. Around 4 PM, one of them emerges, pencil and notebook in hand, to manage the waitlist. Each hopeful party is given a time, a possibility, not a guarantee, of experiencing Lucali’s magic. “This isn’t a guaranteed spot, just a waitlist,” they remind everyone, managing expectations while fueling the mystique. For the uninitiated, walking in at peak dinner hours is simply not an option. The wait, everyone in line understands, is part of the Lucali experience, an essential ingredient in savoring the final product. The name on everyone’s lips, the destination at the end of this culinary pilgrimage? Lucali.
Exterior of Lucali Pizzeria on Henry Street Brooklyn
The Accidental Pizzeria Owner: Mark Iacona’s Lucali Story
The story behind Lucali is as unique as its pizza. Mark Iacona, the man behind this Brooklyn institution, was 36 years old when Lucali opened its doors in 2006, and remarkably, he had never made a pizza before in his life. Not a chef by training, or even by amateur passion, and without any culinary background in Italian cuisine, Mark’s journey to pizzeria owner was purely serendipitous.
It began with a candy store, a beloved childhood haunt for Mark and generations of Carroll Gardens locals. When the owner faced having to lease the space to a chain store, Mark stepped in. He couldn’t bear to see a piece of his neighborhood’s history replaced by generic commerce. Initially, the idea was for his brother to run the store, but as Mark explored the back rooms, a different vision began to form.
While pizza was uncharted territory, construction was Mark’s domain. For years, he excelled in marble and granite fabrication, even lending his craftsmanship to projects for Frank Sinatra. This expertise became the foundation of Lucali. For two years, Mark painstakingly transformed the space, retaining only the front and back doors and a vintage Coca-Cola sign, creating a unique ambiance before even deciding what the space would become.
“I wanted to do [Lucali] the way the craftsmen did it back [in the day],” Mark explained in an interview. He embraced traditional techniques, opting for plaster walls instead of drywall, installing a tin ceiling, and hand-nailing the floors. His goal was to create an atmosphere reminiscent of an old movie set, a step back in time.
Then came the pizza. Mark started by sourcing dough from a nearby pizzeria and diligently practicing the art of stretching it. He acquired used equipment from a closing pizzeria and, generously, their recipe. Within a mere two weeks, according to Mark, he perfected the recipe that Lucali still uses today, a testament to his dedication and natural talent. When Lucali finally opened, the response was immediate and overwhelming. It was full on day one and has remained a bustling destination ever since.
Mark Iacona Preparing Pizza in Lucali's Kitchen
Stepping Back in Time: The Ambiance of Lucali Brooklyn
Lucali’s charm extends beyond its acclaimed pizza. There’s a deliberate simplicity to the restaurant, a curated atmosphere where every detail feels both effortless and intentional. From the humble jars of tomato sauce displayed on a wooden sideboard to the framed photograph of Mark’s grandmother near the brick oven, the brass candleholders, and the handwritten chalkboard menu offering only pizza or calzone, every element contributes to a unique dining experience. Even the simple bowls of fresh mozzarella on the marble counter add to the rustic, authentic feel.
These details are more than just décor; they are an homage to a bygone era of Carroll Gardens, a neighborhood that was once the heart of Italian-American immigrant life in Brooklyn. While Carroll Gardens has evolved over the years, Lucali serves as a nostalgic reminder of its roots.
Mark himself acknowledges the dramatic changes in his neighborhood. While some childhood friends remain, the community has transformed. Boutique stores and trendy wine bars have replaced traditional Italian businesses. Beloved local spots like Café del Sud are now Dunkin’ Donuts. Even churches and Catholic schools have been repurposed into luxury condos. The vibrant street life of his youth, with games in Carroll Park and neighbors socializing on stoops, feels like a distant memory.
Yet, stepping into Lucali is like stepping back into that cherished past. The tin ceiling, the plastered walls, the brick oven – they evoke a sense of timelessness, as if Lucali has always been a fixture of Henry Street. It’s a testament to Mark’s vision and craftsmanship that the restaurant feels so authentically vintage, creating an immersive experience for diners.
Lucali Pizza with Thin Crust and Basil
The Timeless Allure of Lucali’s Pizza
What is it about Lucali that draws such devotion? How has this unassuming BYOB establishment become a magnet for both wine connoisseurs, some even bringing rare vintages like a 1971 La Tâche, and A-list celebrities like Jay-Z, Beyoncé, Paul McCartney, and David Beckham?
Perhaps it’s the unique pizza-making process: the dough stretched thin with a wine bottle, the breadcrumbs ensuring a perfectly crisp crust, or the generous topping of fresh basil. These elements certainly contribute to the exceptional quality of the pizza.
However, the true magic of Lucali goes beyond just ingredients and technique. It lies in its ability to transport you to another time. Dining at Lucali is an escape, a temporary immersion in an era where craftsmanship and attention to detail were paramount. Watching Mark Iacona at work, you see the same hands that once shaped marble now meticulously crafting pizzas. Every action is deliberate, every detail considered.
Lucali embodies a philosophy of doing things slowly, carefully, and correctly. It’s this dedication to quality and tradition, combined with the nostalgic ambiance, that makes Lucali more than just a pizzeria – it’s a taste of authentic Brooklyn, a timeless experience on Henry Street.
