Modern Apizza, located on State Street in New Haven, Connecticut, has been a cornerstone of the city’s renowned pizza scene since 1934. Long before New Haven became synonymous with exceptional pizza, Modern Apizza was already firing up its brick ovens, originally under the name State Street Pizza. Bill Pustari, who purchased the storied pizzeria in 1988, has witnessed firsthand the explosive growth of New Haven’s pizza culture. Today, Modern Apizza stands as a testament to tradition and quality, drawing crowds of locals and pizza pilgrims alike who eagerly line up for a taste of their iconic pies.
Bill Pustari, owner of Modern Apizza in New Haven, standing in front of the restaurant's iconic signage
Pustari recounts the incredible surge in popularity, stating, “the busiest day they ever had I do at lunch now.” This enduring appeal is evident in the lines that often stretch 90 people deep, all waiting for a slice of Modern’s famous “Italian Bomb” or the unique Clams Casino pizza. The secret to their consistency and freshness lies in the meticulous preparation. “We do the pizza sauce three times a day, the cheese three times a day, it’s just a constant rotation,” Pustari explains, comparing the daily rhythm to the movie Groundhog Day due to the constant cycle of prep work.
While Modern Apizza is celebrated for its classic thin-crust New Haven style pizzas, Pustari emphasizes the “little things” that set them apart from the numerous pizzerias on Wooster Street, New Haven’s “Little Italy.” His commitment to quality ingredients is unwavering. “When I buy the Italian tomatoes, when I find one that I like, I end up buying the lot. A lot number on the can — not like, a lot — but the lot, so I know I’m getting the same tomato,” he asserts. This dedication to sourcing the best ingredients ensures that every pizza maintains the consistent flavor and quality that Modern Apizza is known for.
Beyond its State Street location, Modern Apizza’s reputation has expanded significantly. Starting with a branch in Seattle’s Safeco Field in 2011, Modern Apizza has since established locations in Denver, Sacramento, Kentucky, and soon, Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina. In a recent interview, Pustari shared insights into the phenomenon of New Haven pizza, the challenges of managing long lines, and the importance of maintaining quality as Modern Apizza’s fame continues to grow.
When asked about Modern Apizza’s position in the fiercely debated New Haven pizza landscape, Pustari identifies it as “the local place, we’re where the locals go.” He distinguishes Modern from the Wooster Street pizzerias, which he sees as more tourist-oriented, similar to Manhattan’s Little Italy. “Wooster Street gets a lot of tourists. We’re probably around 80 percent locals,” Pustari estimates. He clarifies that “local” doesn’t necessarily mean residents of New Haven, but rather customers who intentionally seek out Modern Apizza as a dining destination, not just as a tourist stop. “They’re coming down to the city to eat here not as a tourist thing, ‘Hey, let’s go try this place out.'”
The popularity of Modern Apizza often translates to long wait times, especially on weekend evenings. Describing a typical Friday night at 7 p.m., Pustari acknowledges the wait but emphasizes the efficiency of their operation. “We move them very fast. I have eight pizza guys going, and plenty of bus people and hosts. For a party of four, it’s maybe a half-hour.” He recounted a Sunday where he counted 90 people waiting outside, highlighting the constant demand. Despite the crowds, Modern Apizza prioritizes quick service once customers are seated. “Our average time for a pizza, once you sit down and order, to get it out and on your table is about 18 minutes.”
Pustari expresses a sense of responsibility towards waiting customers. “I feel guilty when people are standing there, I don’t feel happy. I feel guilty.” This feeling drives their efforts to minimize wait times by optimizing kitchen and dining room flow. To further expedite service, Modern Apizza has made deliberate choices to streamline the menu. “That’s one of the reasons we don’t serve desserts: No espresso, cappuccinos, or desserts, just to try to help people move through faster. And no TVs in the restaurant.” These decisions reflect a commitment to efficient service and a focus on the core offering: exceptional New Haven-style pizza.
The allure of bypassing the line at Modern Apizza is understandable, but Pustari firmly maintains a no-exceptions policy. He recounts instances of attempted line-cutting, even by high-profile individuals. “I had someone — I’m not going to say his name, but he ran for the President of the United States — try to cut the line, and I denied him.” Despite the potential for preferential treatment, Pustari stood his ground, recognizing the importance of fairness to all waiting customers. “I absolutely cannot do it.” In contrast, he shares a story of Steven Spielberg patiently waiting in line like any other customer, earning Pustari’s admiration. “He stood there, he waited for his table like a normal human being, no bodyguards, talked to people, and came in and ate. He’s one of my favorites, now.”
Dealing with customer expectations, especially regarding wait times and the unique characteristics of New Haven pizza, is a daily aspect of running Modern Apizza. Pustari acknowledges that “When people are hungry, they can act a little bit different.” His strategy for managing impatient customers is simple yet effective: “You just keep smiling at them and keep giving them updates. As long as you can keep them informed, they seem to be happier.” He also addresses potential misconceptions about wait times, advising customers not to be intimidated by long lines, as smaller parties are often seated more quickly.
Modern Apizza cherishes its regular customers, some of whom have been dining there for decades. Pustari fondly speaks of a 102-year-old regular, soon to turn 103, who visits weekly for his pizza fix. This enduring patronage highlights the intergenerational appeal and community connection that Modern Apizza has cultivated over its long history on State Street in New Haven.
A Modern Apizza pizza being prepared in the kitchen, showcasing the fresh ingredients and traditional brick oven
Modern Apizza is also known for accommodating customer requests, even unusual ones. Pustari recounts a memorable request to cook a pig in their brick oven on a closed day, which they politely declined due to practical concerns. However, they are more flexible with pizza toppings. “[Sometimes diners] will bring in their odder items they want on their pizza; we let them do that. As long as we don’t sell it, we don’t care. Even if we do sell it: Like in the Summertime, some people just want their tomatoes out of their garden on it; that’s fine. It’s not that big of a deal.” This willingness to personalize the dining experience contributes to Modern Apizza’s welcoming atmosphere.
When faced with a customer who is dissatisfied with their pizza, Pustari’s approach is remarkably gracious. “I don’t charge them. I just take it away and try to explain that we’re doing the best we can, and not everyone has the same tastes and likes.” He emphasizes understanding and avoids taking negative feedback personally, recognizing the diversity of palates. “It’s like, some people like McDonald’s, some people like Burger King; not everybody likes what you like. I just try to do stuff how I like it, and it kind of works out well.”
A common point of unfamiliarity for newcomers to New Haven pizza is the charred crust. “Their first comment if they’re not from here is that the pizza’s burnt. They think it’s dark around the edges.” Pustari addresses this misconception by educating customers about the traditional New Haven style, cooked in open-flame ovens, which results in the characteristic char. He offers to make another pizza for those who prefer a less charred crust but encourages them to try it first. “Close your eyes and try it before you decide just by looking at it.” Often, customers are won over by the flavor, appreciating the authentic New Haven pizza experience.
The expansion of Modern Apizza beyond State Street began with an opportunity at Safeco Field in Seattle. Pustari’s prior experience in sports venue food service and a connection with a company called Centerplate paved the way. Initially hesitant about maintaining quality control in remote locations, Pustari was convinced by Centerplate’s commitment to replicating Modern Apizza’s standards. “If you can’t get the product right, you can’t get my name on it.” After testing equipment and ingredients, Pustari agreed to the Safeco Field venture, which led to further expansions in convention centers and ballparks across the country.
The growing recognition of Modern Apizza, fueled by media attention and positive reviews, has brought a new level of fame to Bill Pustari. He recounts humorous encounters with customers recognizing him. “One day, the guy brought the book up to the front counter, my kids were there, and he was like, can you sign this for me? They looked at me like, ‘Dad, why the hell does that guy want your autograph?'” Despite the accolades, Pustari remains grounded, attributing his success to a long-standing dedication to the restaurant business and a keen eye for detail. “I’ve been in the restaurant business since I was 13 — and I’m 50 now — I’ve done it for a lot of years.”
When asked about his essential “Gatekeeper tool” for managing a popular restaurant, Pustari emphasizes a customer-first approach and a passion for hospitality. “You’ve gotta like to entertain people and throw parties. Everyone else comes first, not you.” He views running Modern Apizza as akin to hosting a party at his home, prioritizing the needs and preferences of every guest. This philosophy, combined with a commitment to quality and tradition, has solidified Modern Apizza’s place as a beloved New Haven institution on State Street and beyond.
References:
- The Definitive Guide to New Haven Pizza
- All Pizza Week 2014 Coverage on Eater
- All Modern Apizza Coverage on Eater
Modern Apizza
874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511
