W 12th Street in New York City’s Greenwich Village is a captivating blend of history, culture, and architectural beauty. Often overlooked in favor of its more bustling neighbors, this charming street offers a unique glimpse into the soul of the Village. From avant-garde art to literary landmarks and stunning residences, W 12th Street is a treasure trove waiting to be explored.
A Fresco of History at The New School
One of the street’s most significant landmarks is The New School, a handsome black-and-white building that has been a center of intellectual and artistic ferment for decades. Within its walls resides a powerful four-wall fresco by the renowned Mexican painter José Clement Orozco. Created between 1930 and 1931, this vibrant, earth-toned masterpiece is a tribute to the global workforce. Though in need of restoration and not always accessible to the public, this artwork stands as a testament to the school’s progressive roots and commitment to social commentary.
The New School itself is steeped in history. Imagine the intellectual atmosphere of night courses taken here, as the original author recalls from 1948 to 1951, inspired by literary giants like Elbert Lenrow and the pragmatic philosopher Sidney Hook. The school’s legacy of open discourse continues to this day, as highlighted by former president Bob Kerrey’s anecdote about the founders’ likely reaction to controversial speakers like Newt Gingrich and Senator John McCain. Kerrey emphasized the school’s foundational belief in the importance of hearing all viewpoints, a sentiment deeply rooted in its history. His remark about living on 11th Street and his limited knowledge of 12th Street adds a touch of classic New York neighborhood humor and provincialism, highlighting the distinct character of each Village street.
Architectural Marvels and Residential Elegance
W 12th Street showcases a remarkable array of architectural styles, particularly in its residential buildings. The north side of the street is lined with handsome apartment houses, each with its own story to tell. Number 59, designed by the prolific Emory Roth and constructed in 1931 by Bing & Bing, exemplifies the elegance of pre-war architecture. Further down, Butterfield House at number 37, built in 1962, stands as a prime example of mid-century modern design and remains one of Greenwich Village’s most sought-after addresses. In contrast, The Ardea at 31-33, a fortress-like structure dating back to 1895-1901 and designed by John B. Snook & Sons, showcases the grandeur of late 19th-century architecture.
Even subtle details reveal layers of history. At number 45, the angular protrusion on the building’s right edge is a tangible reminder of the Minetta Brook, a former waterway that once defined the landscape of Greenwich Village, long before it was covered over. The seemingly halved building at number 35 tells a tale of historical alteration dating back to 1893. And number 19 exudes an undeniable elegance as a 19th-century townhouse, once home to the acclaimed actress Meryl Streep, adding a touch of celebrity lore to the street’s rich tapestry.
Cultural Bookmarks and Literary Treasures
Beyond its architecture, W 12th Street is a haven for cultural enthusiasts. S. F. Vanni, located at number 30, is one of New York City’s most unique bookstores. This 65-year-old establishment, with its charmingly disheveled appearance and unpredictable hours, is a treasure trove of Italian-language literature. Inside, one can discover everything from obscure encyclopedias to popular novels, cookbooks, and dictionaries, offering a rich immersion into Italian culture.
Just a few doors east at number 24 is New York University’s Casa Italiana Zerilli-Marimò. This mid-19th-century mansion serves as a vibrant cultural center, hosting a diverse array of Italian-themed events, including concerts, art exhibitions, film screenings, and lectures. Many of these events take place in the building’s elegant downstairs auditorium, making it a hub for Italian culture in the heart of Greenwich Village.
A Foundation of Education at First Presbyterian Church
For families in the Village, the First Presbyterian Church at number 12 W 12th Street holds a special significance. The Church House, designed by Edgar Tafel and built in 1960, with its chocolate-brown brick and Gothic Revival quatrefoils, seamlessly blends with the stately 19th-century church. This building houses a nursery school, a place where, as the original author recounts, his son and granddaughter began their educational journeys. The church’s history is equally compelling, having been led by the liberal pastor Rev. Harry Emerson Fosdick from 1918 to 1924. Fosdick’s legacy includes his impactful 1922 sermon, “Shall the Fundamentalists Win?”, a question that continues to resonate in discussions about religious and social progressivism.
W 12th Street, with its blend of artistic landmarks, architectural gems, and cultural institutions, offers a rich and rewarding exploration for those seeking to delve deeper into the character of Greenwich Village and New York City. It is a street that quietly whispers stories of history, culture, and community at every turn.
